Carburetor replacement????

[Shood87]

So right now i have a dual carb setup with Weber ict's. I am tried of trying to sync them and i am looking for more of a stock look anyway so i was looking for a carb replacement. I was looking at this one

http://www.mamotorworkstv.com/vw/produc ... ly_313241/

What are the pros and cons of a progressive carbs? would this be a good choice or should i just go back to stock?

Thank you for all of your input in advance.

-steve

[david58]

Go back to stock if you don't like synchronizing your carbs and please send them to me. If you just throw a progressive carb on there you will see just how happy you and the engine is. With any single carb you need to have the intake heated. Which you most likely won't and the intake will ice up which will not be fun. If it was me I would stay with what you have or go back to totally stock induction.

[Shood87]

So when you say I have to have the intake heated do you mean with like the preheater pipes? Or is there another method that I am missing. If going back to the stock induction which 34 pict carb is good? I have read somepeople complaining about the EMPI ones. Would this one ( http://www.mamotorworkstv.com/vw/produc ... -3-355120/ ) be a better option then the progressive?

Thanks for helping me out. We could make a deal for my carbs lol.

[Jim Ed]

So when you say I have to have the intake heated do you mean with like the preheater pipes? Or is there another method that I am missing. If going back to the stock induction which 34 pict carb is good? I have read somepeople complaining about the EMPI ones. Would this one ( http://www.mamotorworkstv.com/vw/produc ... -3-355120/ ) be a better option then the progressive?

Thanks for helping me out. We could make a deal for my carbs lol.

Yes with pre heat or heat riser pipes like on the manifold center section.
An air cleaner with a carb pre heat hose also helps.
Flaps and thermostat also helps.
I do not like the looks of that mamortorworks carb from your link.

Here are two really good choices:

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/34-PICT-3- ... 9-031k.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/34-PICT-3- ... %20alt.htm ..needs idle cut off valve sold separately.

Actually the second choice would be better if you have an alternator because of how the linkage fits on the right side of the carb. It will clear the alternator and the linkage on the carb in the other link might not.

Aircooled.net is higher but they won’t sell you junk.

[volksbugly]

Do yourself a favor and don't install a progressive. It is a PITA. I had constant problems with mine, and ended up spending about 150 bucks on just jets, not to mention the two rebuild kits for it. (all within a year) I ended up buying a wideband O2 sensor and tuned using that. Its really the only decent way to tune a progressive. After it was all said and done I did get it running decent, was it worth it... NOPE. It didn't get better gas mileage than the pic34 which is what I was hoping, and it always had a small dead spot, its an issue with the intake and not enough heat. There is a reason the German engineers had a warm air pipe. Go back with a pic34 and a stock aircleaner with a warm air pipe.

Good luck!


or if you got about 2000$ build yourself a sweet FI setup!

[Shood87]

Thanks for all the help. I will end up doing what i set out to do in the beginning.

Now who wants some Weber 34 ict's? i will also put them up on the parts forum.

Thanks again guys.

[Marc]

Thanks for what? Excellent advice that you're going to ignore?
34ICTs are far and away better than any single center carb setup, and the Holley/Weber progressive is one of the worst choices in that category on an ACVW.

Just what is it that's giving you a hard time with the ICTs? With decent linkage, once they're mechanically synchronized they should require very little attention - you'll spend far more time fussing with a progressive...the flat spot will never go away entirely until you're jetted pig-rich, wasting fuel and washing down the cylinderwalls.

[doc]

Seems to me you're kinda trading down and paying to do so, like Marc says. The dual ICT's really ought to be the premium setup on all fronts.

What's wrong with the Webers?

Just sayin'

doc

[crvc]

Years ago I bought a '74 squareback. The PO had stripped out the fuel injection and put in a Weber 32/36. It idled rough but had excellent pickup. I only used it during summer so maybe problems would have developed in winter. But for a $100 car I wasn't too critical. Eventually I sent it to the junkyard but kept the weber. You still haven't said why the icts are a problem, other than 'looks'.

kevin

[Shood87]

The looks aren't the problem. Just no matter how much i try and tune them it still feels off. No pickup/jumpy acceleration. I talked to the guy that rebuilt the engine (long time air cooled mechanic or so he says) and he said that it was only rebuilt like 800 miles ago. He tuned after the 600 mile mark so he said that the problem is probably with the carbs.

I apologize for being so vauge with this problem this is just my first carb experience beside my motorcycle. If it could be another problem i am open to thoughts.

Also i talked to the guys at aircooled.net and they suggested these two linkage kits.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/SCAT-Cente ... 20scat.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bugpack-Tw ... p/1550.htm

[Weaponer]

One thing different with dual carbs vs one is that with dual carbs the intake manifolds have to be installed after the engine is installed. Is it possible that the manifolds are not sealed to the heads? That would cause vacuum leaks which could result in the symptoms you describe.

[Shood87]

One thing different with dual carbs vs one is that with dual carbs the intake manifolds have to be installed after the engine is installed. Is it possible that the manifolds are not sealed to the heads? That would cause vacuum leaks which could result in the symptoms you describe.

I know what your talking about. I have read about vacuum leaks. well me being stupid didn't actually think about the intake manifolds having the leaks I just tightened down the carbs after replacing the gaskets. I was told that it was taken out and rebuilt so I would think they were put on before it was installed but who knows. I plan on pulling the engine sometime soon to address the surface rust on the cooling tins so I can check them when I pull the engine.

[doc]

The very first thing to investigate is the linkage. Take whatever air cleaners you have off so you can look down the throats of the carbs. Here's the magic - when you pull/push on the single cable, both throttle valves need to do exactly the same thing. When no throttle, t.ey need to be completely closed. They need to start opening at the same time. At half throttle, they both need to be 1/2 open. At wide open throttle, they both should have reached wide open at the same time. Sounds simple, but many, many dual carb problems are linkage induced. Check carefully.

If that's not it, we need to know a little more about the symptoms

doc

[Shood87]

It does make a lot more sense to get a decent linkage rather then spend all the money reverting back.

[MrGolf]

I have 34 ict's on my 69 bug, 1600dp. Been on now six years. Have never had to touch them from day one. I do have a good linkage set up. Thats running a 009 dizzy. I must be one of the lucky ones with the 009 as I have no flat spots. Throtle is super responsive. You will miss the extra power the duals provide.
These carbs are the perfect fit for a stock 1600. What kind of carb sinc tool did you use? These carbs are almost plug& play. I love em.