Kevin, the version of the Truss/Kaffer Bar/Traction Bar/etc. you posted is a bit different than a lot of them as it used clevises not spherical rod ends. The "Stiffy" goes one step further and connects to the trailing arm pivot but give and take, with the exception of the trans mounts where the whole mess basically originates, the whole thing is still encapsulated within the torsion housing.
This is the reason I think that at a minimum the truss bar connections should go in to the body with doublers on top of the body or better yet into the cage for load distribution. Each time this comes up I look at it a bit differently... maybe that is one of the reasons my buggy is taking so long to finish .
Lee
Ghia Road Course Setup
- DORIGTT
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Re: Ghia Road Course Setup
To that end, my plan is to brace the frame horns as was suggested by the gentleman who setup this chassis.
The braces go from the torsion bar to the end of the frame horns to prevent excess movement. Before these were installed, there was a reported movement of up to 10mm deflection of the framehorns!
.The braces go from the torsion bar to the end of the frame horns to prevent excess movement. Before these were installed, there was a reported movement of up to 10mm deflection of the framehorns!
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Re: Ghia Road Course Setup
What you are planning just might work for normal racing or something like that but with longer travel (hang in this case) I am not sure.
This is one of the ideas I played with:
If you weld the seams then the spot welded mounting flanges probably work better as a stiffening flange which might take some of the side to side action out of the game with "some" being the key word.
The adding of a full length of angle iron down the bottom of the mount might work well also as now you would have a triangle.
It is an interesting thought process to come up with the best answer. A lot of the rail owners, especially with "V"-X or heavier water pumpers often remove the dingle dangles and go to a solid mount using the rail's chassis.
Lee
This is one of the ideas I played with:
If you weld the seams then the spot welded mounting flanges probably work better as a stiffening flange which might take some of the side to side action out of the game with "some" being the key word.
The adding of a full length of angle iron down the bottom of the mount might work well also as now you would have a triangle.
It is an interesting thought process to come up with the best answer. A lot of the rail owners, especially with "V"-X or heavier water pumpers often remove the dingle dangles and go to a solid mount using the rail's chassis.
Lee
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Re: Ghia Road Course Setup
Dorgitt, in the setup in your pic it looks like they (or you ?) are running coilovers that bypass the torsion bars. Is this your car, do you believe there is a risk of breaking the shock supports?
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Re: Ghia Road Course Setup
"... but give and take, with the exception of the trans mounts where the whole mess basically originates, the whole thing is still encapsulated within the torsion housing."
I made one not true statement and forgot to mention something:
Both the forward and the "Pickle Forks" trans mount are attached to the torsion bar housing which is in turn is mounted to the pan's tunnel.
The other thing I missed is the hook shaped mounts at the end of the torsion tube and connect to the outside ends of the pan. They have the ability to break fairly easily when abused.
Lee
I made one not true statement and forgot to mention something:
Both the forward and the "Pickle Forks" trans mount are attached to the torsion bar housing which is in turn is mounted to the pan's tunnel.
The other thing I missed is the hook shaped mounts at the end of the torsion tube and connect to the outside ends of the pan. They have the ability to break fairly easily when abused.
Lee
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