which KYB?

For road racing, autocrossing, or just taking that curve in style. Oh yea, and stopping!
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ToRy 70
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which KYB?

Post by ToRy 70 »

Posted this in the samba, but thought I'd ask for input here too:

According to the specs here (thanks W1K1, comparative specs like these are hard to find):
W1K1 wrote:okay here's what I have found out about shock lengths
The standard measurement is from the center of the mounting eye to the base of the threaded shaft.
Add 3 inches if you are using end to end measurements.

KYB 344208 (CIP sells as 2" lowered... NOT)
extended 12.5" compressed 8.375"

KYB 344098
extended 14.625" compressed 9.375"

KYB 344054
extended 16.375" compressed 10.25"

KYB 343143 stock size
extended 17.0" compressed 12.5"
I have two fat chicks, one is stock except for dropped spindles (the driver), and the project, which has dropped spindles and narrowed/adjusted beam, the one I'm looking for shocks.

I measured from the bottom stud on the arm to the flat part of the tower on both cars, at ride height. On the stocker it's about 16", and on the project car it's about 14".

Most will tell me to go with the 344098, but I think the extended length is too short! If I'm going around a turn or whatever, the outer wheel won't be able to plant much because it will be limited in downward travel. Not to mention driveways, potholes, etc.

Isn't it important to have travel in both directions? That tells me I should go with the 344054... I'll have 2 inches of extension and 4 inches of compression available. What do you guys think?

Here's a picture of the front as it sits:
Image
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FJCamper
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Post by FJCamper »

Hi Tory,

344054 looks like the right one. You have to have both compression and extension on a street or road race car.

The sweet setups have adjustable compression and rebound, but that's when you're in it for national championships.

FJC
helowrench
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Post by helowrench »

If you do not have at least some amount of extension available from the 14" that you measured on the project (measured at a compressed state) you will have problems when one wheel unloads, depending upon the amount of force, it could be just a nasty "thunk" all the way to actually damaging the shocks themselves as they would be the "stop" introduced into the system.

Rob
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ToRy 70
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Post by ToRy 70 »

Thanks FJ and helo, that's what I thought! I went to the local VW shop and they were trying to sell me the 344208, which would mean I'd have to compress my suspension to even get it on! I laughed and said no thanks.

I'll order them up soon and update when I can, not sure if anyone with a moderately lowered ball joint car has tried them yet.
helowrench
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Post by helowrench »

I always "knew" this info in the knowledge portion of my brain, but when I changed over my ghia to stiffer torsions in the back, I did not "apply" the info.
Now when I suddenly unload the rear susp, like a train track or so, since stiffer made it sit higher, it smacks the stops, sounding like there is a blind dental hygienist under the car smacking things with a 2lb hammer.

(I am going to be rebushing the rear this spring, and I will be getting the rear down to a better ride height then)

Rob
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ToRy 70
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Re: which KYB?

Post by ToRy 70 »

just revisiting this topic to see if there are any other shocks i could try on the front of my car.

the front end is VERY stiff with the GR-2 shocks on... it hardly moves at all even when I jump up and down on the bumper. with no shocks installed, the front end swings freely up and down with hand pressure on the fenders, so it is not a question of ball joints binding or whatnot.

the ride is pretty unforgiving in the front as a result. i have stock length GR-2s in the rear and they are very supple, so i'm keeping those for sure.

does anyone know any oil shocks that are slightly shorter than stock, maybe soft ones?

and i know it sounds drastic/dangerous, but what's the possibility of micro-drilling these shocks with a dedicated drill press, and then welding up the hole so it has atmospheric pressure nitrogen inside? it's probably a dumb idea because the shock needs the high pressure to function, but i'm not too worried about ruining them... i can't even sell off the set of stock-height KYB's i have.

i've heard of drilling oil shocks, but this is a different ball game... probably very dangerous to do... and may end up with a useless shock. but I definitely want something softer, just a little more damping than the shockless car has.
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ToRy 70
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Re: which KYB?

Post by ToRy 70 »

Well I found this:
http://www.kyb.com/technical/procedures.php

Which means that's it's safe to drill shocks for disposal purposes, as long as safety glasses are used yadda yadda...

I'm going to try drilling/welding mine this weekend and report back with the results...
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raygreenwood
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Re: which KYB?

Post by raygreenwood »

The real issue is not whether they are gas or oil. The issue here is that your valving rate is too high for the spring rate of the car. In effect you have made the shocks ....into the load carriers. Shocks are only supposed to damp the motion of the torsion bars/springs.

This is a large part of my issue with companies who sell lowering or perfrmance replacement shocks for vehicles......based strictly upon how much you want to lower and what total combined stroke length you require. All of that information....leaves out the single most important piece of information that you needto be able to determine if the shock/strut will be able to function properly. You need to know
how much weight and enertia you are going to have to arrest. This will be based primarily upon how strong the spring system is and how quickly that spring must arrest not only the weight but the enertia of a loaded vehicle.
Lets look at the shock you selected: The KYB Gr-2 Excel G...part # 344428. Do you know what other vehicles that was designed to fit?

Here are the vehicles that shock fits:
Its a rear shock for a suspension with LEAF SPRINGS....and 1/2 ton carrying capacity :shock: :
Leaf springs are very heavy duty and the ones on these trucks can completely suspend the weight of the load and heavy vehicle. On most of these 3000-4000 net weight vehicles, the rear weight alone is at least 1200 lbs..... empty. The valving on these is shocks has to be very stiff...because once a 1200 lb rear weight truck with say...1000 lbs of load gets busy compressing the leaf springs when you hit a bump....they need a pretty heavy duty shock valving to arrest that enertia. Once that compressed spring starts to unload a fraction of a second later...they need prtty stiff shock valving on the rebound stroke to arrest the upward spring rebound to keep the rear end from jumping into the air. As you can see....the operative word here is that shocks are to DAMP spring movement. You have shocks on your car...designed to arrest heavy enertial load over a relatively short stroke distance. Just because CIP1 "offers" these as a shorter stroke alternative...does not mean that the valving has been engineered
for your cars weight and enertia.
TOYOTA 4RUNNER (1984 - 1985)
TOYOTA 4RUNNER DLX (1986 - 1989)
TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5 (1985 - 1989)
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER (1988 - 1990)
TOYOTA PICKUP (1984 - 1995)
TOYOTA PICKUP DLX (1984 - 1995)
TOYOTA PICKUP LN55 DLX (1986 - 1987)
TOYOTA PICKUP LN56 1984
TOYOTA PICKUP LN67 1987
TOYOTA PICKUP LN76 1986
TOYOTA PICKUP RN02 1993
TOYOTA PICKUP RN60 1985
TOYOTA PICKUP RN63 (1986 - 1987)
TOYOTA PICKUP SHT BD DLX EXC (1991 - 1992)
TOYOTA PICKUP SR5 (1984 - 1995)
TOYOTA TACOMA (1995 - 2004)
TOYOTA TACOMA REGULAR CAB (1995 - 1997)
TOYOTA TACOMA SR5 (1995 - 1997)


Another point to consider...leverage is everything with shock valving. As an example.....the KYB gas-a-just (high pressure) stock listed rear shock for a vw 411/412 is the identical shock.....that came on the FRONT end of a ford Econline 1/2 ton van. That generally has a V-8 in the front end. You might be thinking..."well...that should have the same problem as my car...meaning the damping would be too stiff". The reason why it does perfectly in both applications....the Ford van with about 1800 lbs of load over the axle and the VW 412 with maybe 900 lbs over the axle...is because on the 412....the shock and spring are out at the end of the trailing arm...about 32" from the pivot point...so the combined weight of teh body anddriveline exerts a lot of leverage against that shock. The Ford van has stubby little 16" A-arms under its 1800 lbs of weight on the axle....and they exert maybe half the leverage. Twice the weight X half the leverage....half the weight X twice the leverage...and you can end up with a valving package that works for both applications.

Do i have a part # solution for you? No....I don't.....but its clear that the valving is your problem. Ray
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ToRy 70
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Re: which KYB?

Post by ToRy 70 »

Hey Ray. Yeah, it was only recently that I found the KYB database and spent some time looking around. Since nearly every database will only let you search based on your vehicle, it makes it really hard to choose a shock based on mounting configuration, length, and valving.

So you have to take what you get and just get a shock that fits, since a properly-valved shock doesn't mean squat if it won't bolt up.

As an experiment, I drilled the shocks and welded on NPT bungs. Then I drained them and put in a lighter weight shock oil from a motorcycle shop. Finally, I added air tank valves to the fittings so I could pump some air into them. They seem to work really nicely, but I have yet to take them on the road for real testing... maybe when I come home for spring break.
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raygreenwood
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Re: which KYB?

Post by raygreenwood »

Yes...I know exactly what you mean. When I started looking for shocks that would fit the front end of my 412...I had to start looking for cars that had a known weight that I could figure for the front end...a useful stroke I could figure from looking at the wear pattern for that cars strut rods in the junkyard....and the n a look at how long the A-arms were so I could figure out how much leverage the thing had on it.
When i thought I had a few candidate cars...I went to crappy pick-and-pulls...with my trust pipe cutter and puleld a few strut cartridges out (about 50+ over a year or so)....and cut them open, inspected the valving shims, bypass oil hole sizes and valving spring tensions...to make the best guess of what would work. It worked out very well.

Did I mention at that point that I had gobs of time on my hands :roll: .

I would think though ....you will have to look for shocks in the size you need (stroke and body wise)...with a lot less load and short trailing rams. Probably a rear shock from a late small pick-up or passenger car. I say rear...because that will be a light load area. Ray
PhillipM
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Re: which KYB?

Post by PhillipM »

Tried a rear damper for a Peugeot 205, if you can get one over there? I know you don't get Peugeots, but you might be able to source the parts from an international shipper?

9.75" compressed, 13.5" extended, designed for the back end of a fairly light hatchback...the cars with a 1100cc engine have the softest ones.
Attach with a 14mm bolt at the bottom and 12mm at the top, trailing arm setup with 1.5:1 shock to travel ratio so it's almost ideal...
Body is ~46/48mm in diameter.
chip_pirate
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Re: which KYB?

Post by chip_pirate »

Bumping up an old thread (get it...bad joke)

Anyways, most posts suggest the KYB 344098, the Opel GT shocks. Interestingly, if you search this P/N on kybs website, the application for this shock is for a Mazda B2200 pick-up. I tried a similar Mazda shock from Monroe (32217) on the front of my 74 Beetle which is currently lowered approx 3" with SAW adjusters only. At rest I have about 2.5" of compression/ rebound as it sits in the middle of shock travel. However, I did have to Jack up the lower arm to bolt the shock on, so this got me thinking, since the shocks are approx 3" shorter than stock, is this how I got 3" lowering, by virtue of shorter shocks? The rides ok, a little bouncy I figure because of limited travel. How did the original KYB 344054 which are slightly longer turn out?
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