Downunder turbo oval & Datsun 510 adventures

[madmike]

Not loctite it's Motoseal ,,, made by loctite

[petew]

Cool. That's what I used really, only a different brand.

[madmike]

works for me most of the time

[petew]

My next challenge is getting the car through it's yearly inspection. I'm fighting other oil leaks, I think from blowby in the past. Things have gotten more strict and I might be forced to pull the motor to have the case separated and resealed. If my local mechanic insists on that, I'll tell him, "sure, then you fix it. I don't have time to work on it."

My guess is he'll find a way to pass it quick, coz no one really wants to chase oil leaks on old VWs.

[petew]

After spending 4 hours fixing oil leaks and adjusting the front end, I dropped the car off for a "blue slip" so I can put it on historic/modified rego (heaps cheaper). An hour later the mechanic called me and told me these thing had to be sorted for it to pass...

Horn not working (1 wire)
Wiper blade not touching the screen (bend the arm)
Passenger door handle is stiff
Front pas kingpin has a little play

The bad news is these things are a fail. You can see now how ridiculously out of control the "safety" culture is here.

The good news they're gonna have a look at them and get it through. I'm personally hoping they can grease up the kindpin and sort it. Coz if I have to replace them, I'll be going to heim joints for sure. Replacing heim joints is $200, K/L front end rebuild is more like $1K over here. Anyway, praying they can just grease it up.

[buguy]

I've never heard of using heim joints before

[Ol'fogasaurus]

"... I'll be going to heim joints for sure...."

Not sure just what you are saying; need more info on what you are planning. As I remember, spherical rod ends are designed to work in a more linear line than in other directions as then you might have to worry about thread strength which is linear also.

Just a thought... nothing more.

[kangaboy]

Passenger door handle is stiff
Front pas kingpin has a little play
...I'm personally hoping they can grease up the kindpin and sort it. Coz if I have to replace them, I'll be going to heim joints for sure. Replacing heim joints is $200, K/L front end rebuild is more like $1K over here. Anyway, praying they can just grease it up.

Have to be kidding me on the handle being stiff...how is that a safety concern?
For the link/king pin...can't you just loosen the clamp bolt, turn the link pin a 1/16th of a turn with a wrench, and then tighten the clamp bolt? Been a while since I redid the front end on my buggy, but i thought that was what it entailed.

[petew]

I've adjusted up the link pins, it's the king pin that's the issue. The whole thing is pretty silly.

Re the heim joints...

064_zps9ddc09c7.jpg

18mm heims slip into the link pink spots. Then you have a pin made up to go throught spindle. Voila! instant camber adjustment btw.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

spherical rod end loading copy.jpg

The bluish color is more or less your proposed loading design. As someone here said on another discussion on spherical rod end, that direction is how the spherical rod ends are assembled. People do do it like this and sometimes, at least for a while, get away with it.

It has been a long time since I played with spherical rod ends in design but the pinkish arrow is more or less the direction they are designed to be used.

The gray circle is a big weak spot as you are now working with the threads in a direction they are not designed to be under load; a basic of engineering is that threads are not to be in shear. If the blue line loading with the ends standing up 90° to laying flat as the pix shows you still would have the threads in shear.

Lee

My opinion is worth quite-a-bit less than you paid for it and it is given as thought rather than a directive.

[petew]

O'F, your force diagrams are 100% correct as are your comments re weak points and the like. In fact, when I first saw this setup, I was from an engineering standpoint quite frankly, horrified. Then I started talking to the guy who put it together. He set me straight on this. A few points.

1. It's TOTALLY overengineered. The 18mm heims are stronger than the arms I'd suggest.
2. He'd run this setup for a long time now on a track car with wide slicks. He's hammered the car but is yet to replace his first set, even with trips on ripple strips and the like.
3. The lower arm there isn't properly adjusted and I won't be running that much camber. He was running 5* of neg camber. I'd want 1 or 2 max.
4. My engineering signatory looked at the specs for the system himself and while he agreed it's not within the spec of the design of heims, he's totally happy with it. Even in our state where things are just plain dumb now, he's happy to pass this (and his legal insurance pays for problems if you get my meaning).

So for a few hundred dollars, I think it's worth the risk.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Thanks!

18mm translates to 45/64" or 0.703" which is close to 3/4" (0.75") which is a lot heavier than what things look like in the pix. Since I ride in pretty rough conditions I was more focused on the rod ends but even the top threaded area still bothers me as there is the "easy on" thread design (like nuts have) into the threaded area of the receptacles which mean that there might be still some room for flexing.

I kind of like the idea but still I probably would not be one who would do it. It reminds me of a BJ without the safety parts that control the BJ itself "pull out" but which still doesn't have the "wrong way" press in of the lower BJ on a bug beam . I have seen enough broken stuff on the sand by people (usually newbies) who push the limit out of ignorance hoping for fun... not having it when things break especially when it is big time; quite often their first ownership and last trip to the dunes .

I thought the bug had 6° of camber stock. Some of the rails I have driven a short distance (I get motion sick in a rail) get kind of "twitchy" with less camber.

I know you guys on the bottom of the earth have pretty strict rules just like some of the European countries do. Here in the states there is the DOT (Dep't of Transportation) that has rules mostly on new cars but each state has the right to do certain things also. Some states don't seem to care while others, while not as strict as you guys are, still are stricter than some of the other states mostly for safety reasons and stolen parts.

Lee

[Piledriver]

There is a spec for play in the manual that IIRC is pretty liberal, same for tie rod ends and ball joints.
A lot of shops like to pretend any play is a failure so they can drum up sales, when if fact a small amount of play is designed in and probably inherent to the design//required.

Refer to the manual.
Note they make rubber boots for heim joints to keep dirt out/grease in.

[rubenski]

Lee, this

It reminds me of a BJ without the safety parts that control the BJ itself "pull out" but which still doesn't have...

The internet has ruind me.

If im the only one, please ignore me

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A750FN met Tapatalk

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Not sure what you are talking about.

This assy has a nut and small dia. washer at the top of the threaded piece and a tapered spacer on the underside that ends up being close to the bottom dia. of the round piece in the rod end plus the post of some type that goes through the spherical ball itself. The BJ ball-joints does have a cover to help keep the ball from pulling out ( ) in the BJ assy. Is that what your talking about?

If so there might be a remedy: Washers can be used for many things and one would be surprised at just how many shapes, functions and many other things besides the standard sizes there are (if you could only see the books listing some of this stuff). I wounder if a dome shaped cover that was about the same dia as the casting on the top and underneath the casting to stop or prohibit any unwanted up and down action by the spherical piece itself. I suspect that there are other simple things that could be done also; this was a first thought and not a deep thought at that on the subject.

Lee