EZ30 + 6mt + Megasquirt into 69 KG

[RyanS]

I am just starting to gather all the components to get my car running. The car has been sitting with a broken "pro street" type 1 transmission for past 5 and a half years, I blame myself and the launch control button for the broken type 1 trans.

I'm recording a vlog while I build. I'll be updating the youtube channel and the build page as I can, and as parts roll in.

the "too long didn't watch" details of the build are as follows.

1969 VW Karmann Ghia, SubaruGears RWD reversed ring and pinion into TY751 subaru split case 6 speed transmission, LSD, mated to a Subaru EZ30 H6 3.0L, Megasquirt MS3 ECU. As of right now no plans for turbo as the 3.0 puts out a decent amount of power. The stock reported numbers are 240hp/220 ft lbs at the crank.

I am hoping to get some advice on a clutch. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone has any input on the 6mt conversion and cutting/welding they did to the center diff that would be greatly appreciated.

Here's part 1.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fw4zNatmZaA

[RyanS]

In this video I document some items I could have covered better, such as the difference in the reinforcement webbing on the 5 speed and 6 speed. I also look much more closely at the unfortunate broken electrical components on the JDM engine.

In addition to that I pulled my megasquirt 1915cc out. I am hoping to find a young college aged engineering student who would be interested in buying the engine for a good deal and would continue the project. I cover some more backstory in the video, but basically I want to find someone who will learn and grow their engineering passion with this engine like I did when I was in school. I'm in the Southern California area and willing to mentor a bit to get an engineer started on the project. If any of you know any suitable candidates that would benefit from and enjoy this project engine please let me know. If I can't find anyone I'll sell the engine with the option of buying it with the 1915 spec Kadron set I have.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1Uj8TwjNyU

[RyanS]

I can't get these drums off. I made a custom gear puller tool to pull the drum and sheared the bolt on it. Anyone have any ideas?

I had put blue loctite on the splines to stop the drums from shearing their splines circa ~6 years ago or so. The loctite worked, I stopped shearing drum splines. I'm probably going to cut the drums up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUNfQqGzuvE

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[Piledriver]

A bit of heat is needed to soften up that locktite... propane torch will work.

And threads need grease. Rust is a poor lubricant.(abrasive)

There is an epic awd subaru WRX Ghia going on, might be on TOS, they do a lot better with photos...
Rear coil overs may be in order as you may have to cut the center out of the torsion housing.

[RyanS]

A bit of heat is needed to soften up that locktite... propane torch will work.

And threads need grease. Rust is a poor lubricant.(abrasive)

There is an epic awd subaru WRX Ghia going on, might be on TOS, they do a lot better with photos...
Rear coil overs may be in order as you may have to cut the center out of the torsion housing.

Hi Pile, Thanks for the reply.

I used a propane torch for awhile. No dice. Thinking more about the problem the surface area that the loctite is in contact with on all spline surfaces is HUGE. way bigger than the surface area on threads on a bolt. If I retry with my puller tool I think I'll try and go find a grade 8 bolt in a lager size and with a finer thread. The grade 8 will give the bolt better hardness to resist the end of the axle. If you watch the video it made a very unique extrusion on the end of the bolt I used. I literally just grabbed what I had laying around since the puller was more of an academic exercise than anything.

Where is the AWD build hosted? I'm not familiar with that TOS acronym. I really really want to do AWD but I don't have a lift capability and I don't think i can do the fab work with the body still on the car.

There's a facebook post by SubaruGears where they raised a 6mt 40mm from the factory mounts so that it was just above the torsion tube. I don't like the idea of raising the center of gravity so we'll see how it goes. Got any sources for a rear coil setup?

www. face book com/Subarugears/posts/fitted-the-new-6mt-subaplug-to-the-ty751-6-speed-cable-shift-transmission-last-n/1186689708049688/

[Piledriver]

I was mistaken: its here: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=149524

TOS is STF shorthand for "that other site"==thesamba.com.
The signal to noise ratio over there tends to suck at times, but their hosting and handling of photos is excellent.

I built my own coil over setup for about what one "coil over" from most places costs...
Bit easier on a T3 as the rear upper shock mounts are double shear.
The shocks were off the shelf and I modified/revalved to suit
...Reasonably well documented... Not hard to do if you are reasonably handy.
Even found a use for KYB shocks...

[Piledriver]

IIRC the subaru trans ring gear/axles are far below the vw trans centerline/axle location, so if you keep the axles ~level its going to end up around there anyway.

[RyanS]

...Reasonably well documented... Not hard to do if you are reasonably handy.
Even found a use for KYB shocks...

Thanks for the links, I hate finding a badass build thread with no conclusion or finished product. what a bummer.

Do you have a link to your coil over build? I have tried a combination of google searching and the forum search function and I am not having any luck.

[RyanS]

I spent a little more time on the project yesterday. I began taking the H6 intake apart to begin planning on what intake/ITB's I want to build.

I'm thinking about using Triumph 675 Dayton ITB's for my ITB's. These bikes are a 3 cylinder bike, so easy work for a flat 6. The H6 oval intake shape should have an equivalent diameter of about 42mm. Google searching is saying these ITB's have a throttle diameter of 44mm so a tiny bit oversized will most likely work ok.

There's a Porsche flat 6 build with these for their ITB's, although I don't like that they have unequal length intake runners. As shown in this thread these ITB's can be split into individuals. I'm planning on splitting these ITB's, I'm sure the linkage would be tricky after splitting them but we'll see.
https://www.triumph675.net/threads/dayt ... che.37461/

If anyone has a better ITB suggestion I'm open to it. I'm specifically looking for ITB's that can be readily split into singles and spaced appropriately for proper intake runner length/design.

Regarding the round ITB to oval port I'm thinking about 3D printing a manifold then lost wax casting it out of aluminum. I've always wanted a good excuse to do this.

Check out the video below for my process to create the first pass at an intake manifold flange for dimension checking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KD3pe0TA0pU

[Piledriver]

Yamaha Waverunner 1100 ITBs... basically R1 motor. 4 42mm Mikuni ITBs, 230cc injectors etc.
Mind, you would need two sets for a /6.

I'm looking at stir welding the late nylon manifold allowing a shorten and widen, perhaps dual plenums with crossovers ala Porsche.
Neat thing about stir welding is the materials can be different to some extent, so one could weld 3d printed flanges on the glass reinforced nylon head attached bits...
For now the early manifold/TB looks like it will work well.
May extend the decklid an inch or so., the motor is as high as it can go in the mounts as they are.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Yamaha Waverunner 1100 ITBs... basically R1 motor. 4 42mm Mikuni ITBs, 230cc injectors etc.
Mind, you would need two sets for a /6.

I'm looking at stir welding the late nylon manifold allowing a shorten and widen, perhaps dual plenums with crossovers ala Porsche.
Neat thing about stir welding is the materials can be different to some extent, so one could weld 3d printed flanges on the glass reinforced nylon head attached bits...
For now the early manifold/TB looks like it will work well.
May extend the decklid an inch or so., the motor is as high as it can go in the mounts as they are.

I hadn't heard of "friction/stir welding" before so I looked it up. Didn't see any negatives but then the places that talked about it were businesses so info was limited. An interesting process and it looks to be good for some things but not sure about everything.

Lee

[RyanS]

so one could weld 3d printed flanges on the glass reinforced nylon head attached bits...

Check out Glass Zytel 3D printing filament. It's got a super high melt point and it's some super strong stuff. It's expensive but it's used a lot in the 3D printing gun community since it holds up so well.

https://coexllc.com/product/3d-filament ... 09-2-85mm/

I read some articles on 3D printed intakes and the experiences from some of the college student ASME/SAE auto teams. They said they encountered stress failures a lot as well as cracking from intake backfires. I'm wondering how much of that is driven by weight saving attempts since the rules are so tight for that race series.

I will read up on the ITB's you recommended and the stir welding process later this evening. Sounds promising! Oh and I think my reply above may have been missed. I couldn't find your coilover posts anywhere. I tried every search trick I could.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

so one could weld 3d printed flanges on the glass reinforced nylon head attached bits...

... I read some articles on 3D printed intakes and the experiences from some of the college student ASME/SAE auto teams. They said they encountered stress failures a lot as well as cracking from intake backfires. I'm wondering how much of that is driven by weight saving attempts since the rules are so tight for that race series.

I will read up on the ITB's you recommended and the stir welding process later this evening. Sounds promising! ...

I retired 20+ years ago just as 3D printing was coming into play. One of the things that does bother me, and you mentioned it, was the strength in materials and heat treating (?). The mix of ISO, ANSI and MIL-SPEC (and et al) standards have to cover the materials on 3D printing but just aren't out there for the average person to read much less understand .

Good post!

Lee

[RyanS]

Well I ended up cutting the drums up to undue the E brake lines. Even after cutting the drums the lines were not easy to get undone.

Spalding Auto Parts from Spokane WA shipped me this section of harness out of a 2006 car. This will make wiring everything up a breeze.

My SubaruGears internals have all arrived. No excuses now... I have to tear apart the transmission.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfMqYvg-mL8

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[RyanS]

I made my first bench vice pressed 3D printed tester manifold in copper tube. The goal was preserve the round tube on one end and a smooth transition to a given oval size at the bottom. The results came out really good!

Check out the video for the full build process

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqhR-GjiWsY

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