Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
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- Clatter
- Posts: 2033
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
At this point I'd be thinking about line-reaming a.k.a. match-doweling with oversized pins.
You can get a set in 11/32 from Berg IIRC?
Just have to track down the right reamer.
IMHO, those guys should just supply the flywheel with 4 dowels and let the builder do the drilling.
They do sell those SPG-pattern drill jigs FWIW.
Thanks for sharing the build details!
I have an epic several-year build going as well.
Mine fell off of the jackstands…
Longest type3 build ever; this will make you feel like you're perfectly normal--->
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... p?t=581759
You can get a set in 11/32 from Berg IIRC?
Just have to track down the right reamer.
IMHO, those guys should just supply the flywheel with 4 dowels and let the builder do the drilling.
They do sell those SPG-pattern drill jigs FWIW.
Thanks for sharing the build details!
I have an epic several-year build going as well.
Mine fell off of the jackstands…
Longest type3 build ever; this will make you feel like you're perfectly normal--->
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... p?t=581759
Speedier than a Fasting Bullet!
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
- Crawdad
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- Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2015 4:12 pm
Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
Oh man, that looks like an expensive panel! Ouch.
My current plan with the flywheel is do one of the following:
1. take an 8mm dowel pin, cut it to length to fit flush on both sides of the flywheel, and use red Loctite to secure it in one of the holes in the flywheel. Then use an SPG jig to drill the offset hole, overlapping with the hole that has been filled.
2. Weld one hole shut, then spot-face it on a mill, on both sides, so it is perfectly flush with the flywheel, then drill a new hole using the SPG jig.
I think I prefer option 1, because I'd rather not risk putting too much heat into the flywheel flange and distorting it. A middle way would be to cut chamfers on either end of a dowel pin (to provide space for a weld bead), weld it in place, and then spot-face it. This would require less heat than filling the hole entirely with weld. Any opinions?
My current plan with the flywheel is do one of the following:
1. take an 8mm dowel pin, cut it to length to fit flush on both sides of the flywheel, and use red Loctite to secure it in one of the holes in the flywheel. Then use an SPG jig to drill the offset hole, overlapping with the hole that has been filled.
2. Weld one hole shut, then spot-face it on a mill, on both sides, so it is perfectly flush with the flywheel, then drill a new hole using the SPG jig.
I think I prefer option 1, because I'd rather not risk putting too much heat into the flywheel flange and distorting it. A middle way would be to cut chamfers on either end of a dowel pin (to provide space for a weld bead), weld it in place, and then spot-face it. This would require less heat than filling the hole entirely with weld. Any opinions?
- Crawdad
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- Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2015 4:12 pm
Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
Long story short. The trans, flywheel, clutch, motor and starter are all playing nicely together now. Here is one of those obscure facts that could be worth a hundred dollars to someone, free of charge: the dowel pins that locate the pressure plate to the flywheel on Ford Mustangs from about 2002-2014 with the V8 option (but not one of the really crazy V8 options) are 6mm on one end and 8mm on the other end, and those are what you will need to mate a Subarugears Type 1 flywheel to an (aftermarket) Subaru clutch. How do I know this? I found it while swimming in a vale of tears. You're welcome. You may also need to trim a couple millimeters off the OD of the clutch disk. We've left the world of "parts numbers" far behind, boys.
Also pictured are the input shaft adapter I made (the threads on one end are simply to make removal easier) and an adapter bushing for the clutch alignment tool to fit the needle bearing on my gland nut. I pity anyone trying to do this swap without a lathe.
As for the crank-to-flywheel dowels, I ended up welding the misplaced hole shut, then used an SPG pattern jig to re-drill the offset hole. But the jig I bought must have been made on worn-out tooling, because the hole wasn't quite where it needed to be. So I am simply omitting that 8th dowel.
Also pictured are the input shaft adapter I made (the threads on one end are simply to make removal easier) and an adapter bushing for the clutch alignment tool to fit the needle bearing on my gland nut. I pity anyone trying to do this swap without a lathe.
As for the crank-to-flywheel dowels, I ended up welding the misplaced hole shut, then used an SPG pattern jig to re-drill the offset hole. But the jig I bought must have been made on worn-out tooling, because the hole wasn't quite where it needed to be. So I am simply omitting that 8th dowel.
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- Crawdad
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- Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2015 4:12 pm
Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
I also needed to face off these countersunk bolts that mount the adapter plate to the case, to make them truly flush. The flywheel was rubbing on them. That's how little clearance there is in the whole package.
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- Crawdad
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
Back to the bones. Before cutting off the rusted-out frame head, I captured the caster with an angle-finder and made a triangular jig, fixed to the shifter mount bolts, to make sure the alignment would be right when I weld the new one on.
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- Crawdad
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
While waiting on that flywheel, I went ahead and made a spoiler that doubles as a fresh air intake. It's .050 aluminum except for the radiused rear lip, which is steel tubing welded to 20 gauge steel sheet, then attached to the aluminum using panel bonding adhesive. I used panel bonding adhesive also to attach the plastic duct to the aluminum. Then I radiused the transition with bondo and hit it with some surfacer-primer.
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- Crawdad
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
The wing is supported by carbon fiber struts. I made these threaded aluminum mounts and counter-sunk washers to capture the rod-ends that epoxy into the carbon tubes. The flipped-over edge on the aluminum flange where the duct enters the deck lid is for a license plate light.
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
I see what you mean about the lathe comment! Hardly bolt on eh?!
Looks great!
Looks great!
- Crawdad
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
I had planned to mount the dry sump tank further toward the back of the car, but it ended up here, exiting just above the trans nose cone. There is going to be too much transmission, starter motor, and frame horn braces in the way further rearward. I'm trying to keep it low (to minimize drain-back) and the feed line to the pump as short and straight as possible. It will be AN-12. I have a sump heater I plan to install in the tank. My idea was to keep it plugged in so my oil is nice and warm, so I can just get in and drive hard without waiting for a couple gallons of oil to get up to temperature.
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- Crawdad
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
I won't be adding a turbo right away, but I wanted to get all the fabrication work done before painting, so I made this bracketry to mount the radiator for a water-to-air intercooler above the transmission, and a scoop to feed it air via a 3 inch hose. I'm afraid the scoop may hang too low, and get taken out by a speed bump.
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- Crawdad
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
I'm moving to CA.
Today I had movers load my shop onto a truck.
The Subaru trans fell off the truck, right in front of me. It fell about four feet, onto packed gravel.
No way to know if it is damaged internally, or if the case might be cracked somewhere. Oy.
Today I had movers load my shop onto a truck.
The Subaru trans fell off the truck, right in front of me. It fell about four feet, onto packed gravel.
No way to know if it is damaged internally, or if the case might be cracked somewhere. Oy.
- Clatter
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- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2002 1:01 am
Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
Did you ever make it here?
Speedier than a Fasting Bullet!
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
- Crawdad
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2015 4:12 pm
Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
I had to do some massaging of both the aluminum case and the piston that came in my "case hardware" kit to get the piston moving freely in its bore, and seating well. The seat in the case has a little step in it where it looks like the hone didn't fully bottom in the bore when it was being machined at the factory. So I cut a little relief in the piston to clear the step, so the face will seal against the true bottom of the bore.
Don't make the mistake I did when drilling and tapping the main oil gallery for a plug. I drilled/tapped too deep and marred the valve bore, raising a burr, which the piston was hanging up on.
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- Clatter
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- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2002 1:01 am
Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread
Any news on this one?
Speedier than a Fasting Bullet!
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853