Thanks Richard, clear.Type 4 Unleashed wrote: ↑Wed Jun 17, 2020 10:49 amI have never seen a Type lV head stud pull let alone break, so yes to replace them with Type 1 studs is a waste of time and money. The only reason to replace Type lV studs are for longer ones, for a longer stroke & rod stroker, and the only ones I know of, that are longer than stock and are a direct bolt in replacement are from EMW.Eddie010 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 2:50 am Sorry for all the questions but trying to complete everything for the building stage.
Have you guys placed Type 1 8mm Chromoly Head Studs with case savers, or is this a waste of money and time
and should i use the stock Type 4 head studs... going for about 11 to 1 compression ratio.
Thanks in advance
Eddie
2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
Nice Swedish welded crank, out for balancing at the moment.
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
Very nice Eddie! Did you make the decision on which cylinders and rods you will use?
Mark
Mark
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
Thanks Mark,
Yep found some nice 5.325 Rods with 22mm piston pins.
The cylinders is a tougher choice to make..
This engine will hopefully life a long live in my car..
Stuck between are I am going to gamble on the QSC aluminium Cylinders or the safe route of deutz..
When the crank comes back from the balancer I have to make a choice..
Yep found some nice 5.325 Rods with 22mm piston pins.
The cylinders is a tougher choice to make..
This engine will hopefully life a long live in my car..
Stuck between are I am going to gamble on the QSC aluminium Cylinders or the safe route of deutz..
When the crank comes back from the balancer I have to make a choice..
- MegaRookie
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
Nice! Good to hear you found some rods. Just mentioning.. When you go for the Deutz cylinders you will really have a nice combo, on the other hand you would always think: what if I mounted the alu ones...
Good luck with the choice!
Mark
Good luck with the choice!
Mark
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
Ok going to ask here as well.
My calculated compression ratio with 1.5mm deckheight will be 11.25:1.
I think this is a bit high for the webcam 86B cam.
My heads have 48 cc chamber volume, they were a bit unshrouded at the valves.
But when I calculated the compression ratio with 10:1 I will end up with 2.6mm deckheight.
So what are you guys suggesting I do with the heads, where can I find 5cc in the head?
Thanks in advance
My calculated compression ratio with 1.5mm deckheight will be 11.25:1.
I think this is a bit high for the webcam 86B cam.
My heads have 48 cc chamber volume, they were a bit unshrouded at the valves.
But when I calculated the compression ratio with 10:1 I will end up with 2.6mm deckheight.
So what are you guys suggesting I do with the heads, where can I find 5cc in the head?
Thanks in advance
- Wally
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
Show us a picture of the head, anyhow don't increase deackheight at all costs.. I would rather run the higher CR.
10,5 CR would be more in the ballpark imo and easily doable with a 86B BTW.
You don't need valves dimples in the pistons? In other words: valves have enough clearence wrt the pistons? (I ask as valve notching easily gives 2-2,5cc extra with big valves)
10,5 CR would be more in the ballpark imo and easily doable with a 86B BTW.
You don't need valves dimples in the pistons? In other words: valves have enough clearence wrt the pistons? (I ask as valve notching easily gives 2-2,5cc extra with big valves)
T4T: 2,4ltr Type 4 Turbo engine, 10.58 1/4 mi
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"Mine isn't turbo'd to make a slow engine fast, but to make a fast engine insane" - Chip Birks
www.apfelbeck.nl
"Mine isn't turbo'd to make a slow engine fast, but to make a fast engine insane" - Chip Birks
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
Walter,
Here is a picture of the head, the heads have 47cc in the chamber.
The pockets in the pistons only have 1cc or so, that is not going to bring much.
The heads were on my 2.0 engine also, so they were machined (fly cut) for 9.5 compression for 94mm cylinders, but with the 100mm
you need al lot more cc s in the head.
Here is a picture of the head, the heads have 47cc in the chamber.
The pockets in the pistons only have 1cc or so, that is not going to bring much.
The heads were on my 2.0 engine also, so they were machined (fly cut) for 9.5 compression for 94mm cylinders, but with the 100mm
you need al lot more cc s in the head.
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- Wally
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
There's an easy 2-5cc to be found there with some extra combustion chamber optimization imho. You could do that yourself. Starting with spray painting the squish planes to see where the cylinders rest
GL!
GL!
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
In your pic, it looks like your exh were unshrouded far more than the the int's were, which was a mistake.
Here's a tip for future reference, the Int valves are the only one's that need unshrouding. The exh valves, you want the chamber wall as close to the valve seat as possible. You have to remember the exh flows the opposite the Int, and if you unshroud the exh valve, the area around the seat is increased, so when the piston comes up to push out the spent exh, it now has to hit the wall around the exh seat that's farther away from the valve seat due to the unshrouding, so it can be directed to the exh valve seat, which now has to do a 90 deg turn over the exh seat to exit. Basically all the angles and distance to the exh seat has been increased, slowing the exh flow.
I would leave the heads alone, I would look for cc's in the piston top. If it's thick enough I would dish it, if not, most pistons are thicker around the valve pocket area you could do a trough between the exh pockets increasing cc's, or you could even do both, a slight dish. and a trough in the valve pocket area. And remember to round all edges from machining.
And I would keep CD to 1.0 mm.
Here's a tip for future reference, the Int valves are the only one's that need unshrouding. The exh valves, you want the chamber wall as close to the valve seat as possible. You have to remember the exh flows the opposite the Int, and if you unshroud the exh valve, the area around the seat is increased, so when the piston comes up to push out the spent exh, it now has to hit the wall around the exh seat that's farther away from the valve seat due to the unshrouding, so it can be directed to the exh valve seat, which now has to do a 90 deg turn over the exh seat to exit. Basically all the angles and distance to the exh seat has been increased, slowing the exh flow.
I would leave the heads alone, I would look for cc's in the piston top. If it's thick enough I would dish it, if not, most pistons are thicker around the valve pocket area you could do a trough between the exh pockets increasing cc's, or you could even do both, a slight dish. and a trough in the valve pocket area. And remember to round all edges from machining.
And I would keep CD to 1.0 mm.
Richard
EMW
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have the money to do it right, but can always
find the money to do it twice ?”
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
Thanks for the info guys.
I try to do a lot my self. but my problem, if i going to unshroud the inlet more, can I do them the same for 4 chambers.
Bit afraid to do this.
Any tips for that.
Regards Eddie
I try to do a lot my self. but my problem, if i going to unshroud the inlet more, can I do them the same for 4 chambers.
Bit afraid to do this.
Any tips for that.
Regards Eddie
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
Richard,
the inlet was also done a bit, but not visible on the picture.
But your remark on the exhaust is noted.
Thank you
the inlet was also done a bit, but not visible on the picture.
But your remark on the exhaust is noted.
Thank you
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
Finally had some time to machine the cylinders
Cutting them to the correct length.
Machining the fins off.
Cutting them to the right size.
Cutting them to the correct length.
Machining the fins off.
Cutting them to the right size.
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- Clatter
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
Machining those cylinders looks like fun!
Miss having a lathe to use..
Here's how they did the chambers on the 2.0 914 head:
There are a few ways to keep the chambers even:
Make a template, put bluing down and scribe the outline into the chamber.
Set a timer every time you start on one section, say lower left corner,
Then do each lower left corner for the exact same amount of time, one after another.
You can also cc the chambers after you are done to be sure they all at least have the same total ccs.
Not sure it works or not, because i don't have a dyno or flow bench,
But,
I have seen a few motors now using the non-2.0 914 heads take and relieve the chambers to mimic the 2.0 plug boss:
It's been written several places that you want to relieve the plug side of the chamber, and not the non-plug side,
Again, heresay.. I don't have a flow bench.
There's a book by Bill Fischer written long ago that has some good info about porting VW heads if you can find it.
Miss having a lathe to use..
Here's how they did the chambers on the 2.0 914 head:
There are a few ways to keep the chambers even:
Make a template, put bluing down and scribe the outline into the chamber.
Set a timer every time you start on one section, say lower left corner,
Then do each lower left corner for the exact same amount of time, one after another.
You can also cc the chambers after you are done to be sure they all at least have the same total ccs.
Not sure it works or not, because i don't have a dyno or flow bench,
But,
I have seen a few motors now using the non-2.0 914 heads take and relieve the chambers to mimic the 2.0 plug boss:
It's been written several places that you want to relieve the plug side of the chamber, and not the non-plug side,
Again, heresay.. I don't have a flow bench.
There's a book by Bill Fischer written long ago that has some good info about porting VW heads if you can find it.
Speedier than a Fasting Bullet!
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
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Re: 2450 (78mm x 100mm) engine build
Thanks Clatter,Clatter wrote: ↑Wed Dec 09, 2020 7:57 am Machining those cylinders looks like fun!
Miss having a lathe to use..
Here's how they did the chambers on the 2.0 914 head:
There are a few ways to keep the chambers even:
Make a template, put bluing down and scribe the outline into the chamber.
Set a timer every time you start on one section, say lower left corner,
Then do each lower left corner for the exact same amount of time, one after another.
You can also cc the chambers after you are done to be sure they all at least have the same total ccs.
Not sure it works or not, because i don't have a dyno or flow bench,
But,
I have seen a few motors now using the non-2.0 914 heads take and relieve the chambers to mimic the 2.0 plug boss:
It's been written several places that you want to relieve the plug side of the chamber, and not the non-plug side,
Again, heresay.. I don't have a flow bench.
There's a book by Bill Fischer written long ago that has some good info about porting VW heads if you can find it.
I gathered some info, yours confirms this.
I am going to remove material on the inlet valve side next to the spark plug same as in your picture marked with the black marker,
Don t think I have to remove a lot to gain some cc s.
Regards Eddie