1911 build (need advice)
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
Input shaft bearing is stock. I am running it mated to a 3 rib tranny
- Type 4 Unleashed
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
If the seal is not all the way down seated flush against the case, it could have a slight torisonal twist and would cause the rubber seals lip to have a slight gap.
For the amount of oil you say is leaking, this I think is your issue.
Others have reported the seal you have has issues, I don't remember if this is the Victor Reinz or the other one which I can't remember the name. The other seal is a solid red or orange fluywheel seal.
For the amount of oil you say is leaking, this I think is your issue.
Others have reported the seal you have has issues, I don't remember if this is the Victor Reinz or the other one which I can't remember the name. The other seal is a solid red or orange fluywheel seal.
Richard
EMW
“Have you ever noticed how some people never
have the money to do it right, but can always
find the money to do it twice ?”
EMW
“Have you ever noticed how some people never
have the money to do it right, but can always
find the money to do it twice ?”
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
I called the short block builder & he said to put it back in with a new seal with a tighter spring and that if it leaked again, he would send me a new flywheel. Got the engine back in with a new seal seated all the way in & oil leak is still happening although not as bad this time. Oil pressure (on the VDO) starts at 75psi & drops to 50psi after warm up running at 2500rpm. After running it today, it would not shut off. Thought the ignition switch was defective but for some reason, the D+ terminal (iddiot light connection) on the alternator now has 12volts even when the ignition is shut off. Not sure what I could have hooked up wrong to make this happen. Hopefully the alternator is not bad. Head temp now working & left head was @ 200 but right side was much cooler.
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
Took the regulator off the top of the alternator to try & see what was going on. The wire coming from back inside the alternator is hot all the time. I checked on the alternator on my rail which is identical and the wire is not hot. I am guessing that the used alternator I bought is defective.
- dstar5000
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
EBAY?
Don
Don
"Let me say it as simply as I can: transparency and the rule of law will be the touchstones
of this presidency,".. Barack Obama January 21, 2009, 30 minutes before he signed the law
sealing all his personal information....
of this presidency,".. Barack Obama January 21, 2009, 30 minutes before he signed the law
sealing all his personal information....
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
Yes - bought on ebay a few years back when I started this proect. Other than not working, it looks freshly rebuilt. Has anyone busted into a Motorola & repaired it? Im guessing it must be a diode or something. If a repair isn't feasable, which brand should I invest in? I have read a lot posts from people who regretted buying the Chineese stuff.
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
Got a remanufactured one @ autozone with lifetime warrenty for $77. At leat my ebay junk worked for the core charge and was not a total loss.
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
So I have run the engine long enough to dial in the linkage and adjust the carbs but the flywheel seal is still leaking. I still had hopes that the rings would seat and the leak would stop. I ran it with the cap off the filler tube and there does not seem to be excessive blow by as very little pressure can be felt while running. After engine removal to remedy the leak, I noticed that the left topside of the case right behind the flywheel has a round hole like something is supposed to mount there. Since I will be slogging through mud & tearing around in the sand, I think I should plug this with something to keep junk from entering the clutch & bell housing area. What have you guys used to plug or cover this?
- Piledriver
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
I made a 1.250" plastic plug and stuck a crank sensor in it.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
I got a replacement 215mm flywheel from the mechanic in the mail this week. It appears that I will need different hardware to mount the pressure plate as the hardware that I was using on the old one is a little too small. A CV bolt fits the size & thread pattern but are obviously a little long for the application. Is there a substitute for these that I could find at a local store?
- Piledriver
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
I have a local HW store that carries metric grade 12.9 flanged bolts in a large selection.
(the guy was a bolt salesman that retired and always wanted a hardware store...)
Fastenall is my second choice.
YMMV.
That hole is ~1.250".
I made a plastic plug that presses in and is holding my crank trigger Hall sensor.
(I run 6/1 (no missing teeth) with a modified distributor for sync)
The sensor triggers off the 6 dust holes that line up with the pressure plate.
The reason it exists is for access to flexplate bolts on an automatic.
You SHOULD be able to find a freeze plug or perhaps a rubber expanding type freeze plug to seal it up.
(the guy was a bolt salesman that retired and always wanted a hardware store...)
Fastenall is my second choice.
YMMV.
That hole is ~1.250".
I made a plastic plug that presses in and is holding my crank trigger Hall sensor.
(I run 6/1 (no missing teeth) with a modified distributor for sync)
The sensor triggers off the 6 dust holes that line up with the pressure plate.
The reason it exists is for access to flexplate bolts on an automatic.
You SHOULD be able to find a freeze plug or perhaps a rubber expanding type freeze plug to seal it up.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- sideshow
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
I have a 215mm that requires m7 bolts, and another that I had converted to m8 (the same as a beetle). Funny thing is the pressure plates all seem to expect m8 bolts.evernon wrote:I got a replacement 215mm flywheel from the mechanic in the mail this week. It appears that I will need different hardware to mount the pressure plate as the hardware that I was using on the old one is a little too small. A CV bolt fits the size & thread pattern but are obviously a little long for the application. Is there a substitute for these that I could find at a local store?
You could by a beetle cover bolt kit or just use m8x1.25 sourced from anywhere.
Yeah some may call it overkill, but you can't have too much overkill.
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
Thanks - i will check at the HW store tomorrow to see if I can find some. Do they need to be any specific grade? I would hate to drop the clutch & have them all shear off! Ill also check for a 1.25" frost plug for the senser hole - maybe NAPA? - thanks Pile
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
So I got a replacement flywheel from the mechanic & threw it together without changing the 2nd seal out & it still leaks. It is definitely not as bad as it was with the original seal but it is still dripping out approx 20 drips or so after 10 minutes of running. Should I try replacing the seal again? Could this seal have been damaged by flywheel #1 so that it would leak with flywheel #2? I am tempted to replace the seal again but tighten the coil spring further as this slight adjustment definitely reduced the oil loss. I guess I am a little confused as I don't see how oil could be coming out. It feels very snug when sliding the flywheel on the crank end. I know it is not crank case pressure that is causing it - is it possible that it could leak from excessive oil pressure? Pile suggested that I double check the VDO with a mechanical gauge to see if the electronics were accurate & I haven't done this yet. The VDO says that while cold, the pressure is at 70psi & it drops to around 40 when hotter. There is a possibility that I have slightly over filled with oil since I had to custom make the dip stick. The mechanic suggested that I could borrow his cut down flywheel & pressure the case through the oil pressure sender hole to see where the oil is coming from but he would have to ship me the tools required.
Another mystery is that the engine will not shut down! I have checked the relay that supplies the coil & it operates correctly. The iddiot light is lit when the ignition is turned on & goes out when the engine is running. When the ignition is shut off, the iddiot light goes out but the engine continues to run. While trying to figure out what was happening, I shut off the ignition switch with the engine running & checked the hot side of the switch with a test light to see if it was getting juice backward from the starter or coil wires. The engine shuts down immediately when the test light probe hits the hot side of the switch with should not be hot anyway. Do I have a bad switch or have I goofed up the wiring in some way that would cause this? Maybe my iddiot light is the wrong wattage?
Thanks
Another mystery is that the engine will not shut down! I have checked the relay that supplies the coil & it operates correctly. The iddiot light is lit when the ignition is turned on & goes out when the engine is running. When the ignition is shut off, the iddiot light goes out but the engine continues to run. While trying to figure out what was happening, I shut off the ignition switch with the engine running & checked the hot side of the switch with a test light to see if it was getting juice backward from the starter or coil wires. The engine shuts down immediately when the test light probe hits the hot side of the switch with should not be hot anyway. Do I have a bad switch or have I goofed up the wiring in some way that would cause this? Maybe my iddiot light is the wrong wattage?
Thanks
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Re: 1911 build (need advice)
So I just put in a new vanagon seal & on a whim, checked the end play after putting the flywheel back on. The measurement is .0065 which according to what I have read, is a little out of tolerance. Could excessive end play be causing the seals to leak? I did look at the drain hole & it was partially plugged with case sealant so this also could have added to the issue. Dang, if I have to adjust the shims, the seal I just put in will be wasted. Do I swap out one of the shims with one that is .0025 thicker? If you are savvy at wiring, please read my previous post. I am really perplexed at the engine not stopping issue!
Thanks
Thanks