2056cc fuel injected Type 4 build
Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 3:43 pm
Hello all,
After many, many nights spend on reading everything found on Internet about T4 upright conversion decided to start my build.
I got three Type 4 engines, all of them CU (bad luck?), just pointed one of them and started
It's will be a budged build, so must cut corners were that can't harm engine and build. Engine is going in my Ghia (owned for 2 years, not started resto yet 
). Any recommendations are welcome!
Initial spec are:
96mm Keith Black flattop pistons with original barrels turned down to size;
original bus heads, new valve seats, a bit of polishing may be, original valves, original valve springs ?;
original crankshaft and rods, new bearings;
WEB-CAM 284°, new bearings, new lifters?;
228mm clutch;
GSXR1000 throttle bodies on cut fuel injection manifolds;
Megasquirt with EDIS, got Haltech E6X, but I'm more confident in MS after hundreds build and installed (literally);
custom exhaust.
Aiming for 100-120HP.
First things first. Case machined to accept plate for alternator stand:
Plate is 11 mm. Every build I've seen used only 2 bolts to hold that plate in place, to be more confident I've used four 6mm bolts. As you can see I've made my choice - Cali conversion!
Crankshaft pulley is OG T1 turned down to T4 hub OD, moved as near to case as possible (for now! there will be 36-1 toothed wheel later):
One brand new fan shroud and one used OG alternator later, it's time to made the alternator stand:
Alternator pulley is early 6V pulley (it was pain in the arse
to removed it from generator shaft!)
Initial mockup:
Base plate is 12mm, if you look closer you will find that alternator strap hold in place a 1/3 part of 105mm ID tube machined for alternator stand. The idea for that stand is taken from a friend's build - just simple yet effective! Here is his stand:
Mine, not bad too. Today stand was put on diet by my machinist but forgot to take a pics. Soon to be zinc plated, not painted to prevent corrosion.
That stand will allow me to use dip stick in its original location just shortened Oil filler will be closed. Since EDIS will control spark, dizzy have no place in the engine. Dizzy hole will be used for oil filler and crank case ventilation. Later (few years?) there will live an A/C compressor, so crankcase ventilation outlet will be low profile. I like "Split cable pull linkage", so I'll try to do my best to make something that works in the same way.
Few questions - My machinist made me a CNC plate to close fuel pump hole. Is it that simple - just place plate with new gasket and screw bolts down, is there will be any problems with oil that must lubricate fuel pump shaft? Oil pressure drop?
Question #2 - what C/R will get with KB flattop pistons and bus heads? Hopefully 9:1?
Thanks!
Nick
After many, many nights spend on reading everything found on Internet about T4 upright conversion decided to start my build.
I got three Type 4 engines, all of them CU (bad luck?), just pointed one of them and started
It's will be a budged build, so must cut corners were that can't harm engine and build. Engine is going in my Ghia (owned for 2 years, not started resto yet ). Any recommendations are welcome! Initial spec are:
96mm Keith Black flattop pistons with original barrels turned down to size;
original bus heads, new valve seats, a bit of polishing may be, original valves, original valve springs ?;
original crankshaft and rods, new bearings;
WEB-CAM 284°, new bearings, new lifters?;
228mm clutch;
GSXR1000 throttle bodies on cut fuel injection manifolds;
Megasquirt with EDIS, got Haltech E6X, but I'm more confident in MS after hundreds build and installed (literally);
custom exhaust.
Aiming for 100-120HP.
First things first. Case machined to accept plate for alternator stand:
Plate is 11 mm. Every build I've seen used only 2 bolts to hold that plate in place, to be more confident I've used four 6mm bolts. As you can see I've made my choice - Cali conversion!
Crankshaft pulley is OG T1 turned down to T4 hub OD, moved as near to case as possible (for now! there will be 36-1 toothed wheel later):
One brand new fan shroud and one used OG alternator later, it's time to made the alternator stand:
Alternator pulley is early 6V pulley (it was pain in the arse
to removed it from generator shaft!)Initial mockup:
Base plate is 12mm, if you look closer you will find that alternator strap hold in place a 1/3 part of 105mm ID tube machined for alternator stand. The idea for that stand is taken from a friend's build - just simple yet effective! Here is his stand:
Mine, not bad too. Today stand was put on diet by my machinist but forgot to take a pics. Soon to be zinc plated, not painted to prevent corrosion.
That stand will allow me to use dip stick in its original location just shortened
Oil filler will be closed. Since EDIS will control spark, dizzy have no place in the engine. Dizzy hole will be used for oil filler and crank case ventilation. Later (few years?) there will live an A/C compressor, so crankcase ventilation outlet will be low profile. I like "Split cable pull linkage", so I'll try to do my best to make something that works in the same way.Few questions - My machinist made me a CNC plate to close fuel pump hole. Is it that simple - just place plate with new gasket and screw bolts down, is there will be any problems with oil that must lubricate fuel pump shaft? Oil pressure drop?
Question #2 - what C/R will get with KB flattop pistons and bus heads? Hopefully 9:1?
Thanks!
Nick
