clutch cable tube replacement?
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clutch cable tube replacement?
I have finally gotten around to the home stretch on my complete buildup of my 66 bug. I started to get the pedals and cables installed and I found out that I have no clutch cable tube. Actually I have about 4 or 5 inches at the very front and then it just stops and dumps the cable into the tunnel. I just want to know what I should use as a replacement? I have also been thinking of only using 10 or 12 inches of tubing just where it exits the tunnel? This way itll be way easier to install? Any thoughts or opinions about this? Thanks
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I am not talking about the bowden tube. I know what that is for and I understand the function of it. I am talking about the tube that the clutch cable goes through in the tunnel. I can not use the bowden tube unless I have the tube that goes through the tunnel. And I need that unless I want to run solid mounts, which I do not. So I was just wondering what I should use as a replacement for my missing tube, and if I can run with just about a foot of it where if exits the tunnel and connects to the bowden tube? I really hope someone can help as I dont want solid mounts or a hydraulic setup. Thanks again for any help
- Buggin_74
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u will definatley need the entire guide tube through the tunnel otherwise when u release the clutch the cable will get caught up on all the other things in there like shift rod, handbrake+heater cables fuel lines etc
i did a semi auto to manual conversion a few years ago and i got a lenght of 1/2" thin walled tube just a tad over 5 feet long
u will also need the middle bracket to weld it to
its a horrible job but is fairly straight forward
email or msn me if need any help
good luck
Joel
i did a semi auto to manual conversion a few years ago and i got a lenght of 1/2" thin walled tube just a tad over 5 feet long
u will also need the middle bracket to weld it to
its a horrible job but is fairly straight forward
email or msn me if need any help
good luck
Joel
1974 Germanlook 1303 Suba-Beetle
Subaru EJ25 Boost R 17", 4 Wheel discs, Topline suspension and A/C
Subaru EJ25 Boost R 17", 4 Wheel discs, Topline suspension and A/C
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- Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2003 10:24 pm
Well the reason that I thought of only using a small length of tube was that I read an old post where that was talked about. I dont have the heater cables in the car, and the gas line runs along the bottom of the tunnel. I dont really see how the the clutch cable could interfer with anything else as long as it is routed correctly to begin with? I would appriciate some more input into this. Also buggin, did you take any pictures while you did the job? If so could you post them? Thanks
- Buggin_74
- Posts: 691
- Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2000 12:01 am
do u know why ur bug hasnt got a full guide tube?
i dont know how u'd get a new cable fed through the 2 peices if it wasnt joined
the guide tube is welded to 2 mounts one just behind the pedals and the other just below the handbrake
heres some pics of them in a pan that was cut open
Joel


i dont know how u'd get a new cable fed through the 2 peices if it wasnt joined
the guide tube is welded to 2 mounts one just behind the pedals and the other just below the handbrake
heres some pics of them in a pan that was cut open
Joel


1974 Germanlook 1303 Suba-Beetle
Subaru EJ25 Boost R 17", 4 Wheel discs, Topline suspension and A/C
Subaru EJ25 Boost R 17", 4 Wheel discs, Topline suspension and A/C
- Gabe
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- MedicTed
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- Marc
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The only part of the cable conduit that's vitally important is the rear section that the Bowden tube connects to - as you realize, it has to be welded in solidly in order to be able to establish proper Bowden tube preload.
It WILL work with only this short piece of tube present. Getting the cable routed through the first time is slightly challenging; if you need to replace it later on all you have to do is tie a wire to the old one before you pull it out, and use the wire to pull the new one back through. Oh, and the cable may act a little long, you may have to use a slightly shorter one or make a "longer nut" by drilling the threads out of one wing nut and welding another one on top of it.
Would it be better to weld in a complete tube? Of course. But it isn't mandatory.
It WILL work with only this short piece of tube present. Getting the cable routed through the first time is slightly challenging; if you need to replace it later on all you have to do is tie a wire to the old one before you pull it out, and use the wire to pull the new one back through. Oh, and the cable may act a little long, you may have to use a slightly shorter one or make a "longer nut" by drilling the threads out of one wing nut and welding another one on top of it.
Would it be better to weld in a complete tube? Of course. But it isn't mandatory.
- Buggin_74
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hi all,
if anyones interested the entire car was cross setctioned lol
u can see the rest of it and various other VW parts cross sectioned on the queensland vw drivers club website
http://www.vwdcqinc.org.au/insideabug.html
Joel
if anyones interested the entire car was cross setctioned lol
u can see the rest of it and various other VW parts cross sectioned on the queensland vw drivers club website
http://www.vwdcqinc.org.au/insideabug.html
Joel
1974 Germanlook 1303 Suba-Beetle
Subaru EJ25 Boost R 17", 4 Wheel discs, Topline suspension and A/C
Subaru EJ25 Boost R 17", 4 Wheel discs, Topline suspension and A/C