New 76 2.0L is cutting out and wants to quit after 5 minutes

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914Mothership
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New 76 2.0L is cutting out and wants to quit after 5 minutes

Post by 914Mothership » Sat Apr 23, 2005 11:49 pm

Looking for some advice.

I bought a 76 2.0L FI DL 914. It did not run right and most of the electrical was not working also. Well, now I have head, signal, brake, emergency, backup lights, starter and wipers. Horn and trunk light are still an issue.

I removed gas tank and flushed, good shape, repalced gas lines and fuel filter. Replaced plugs. points, condensor, rotor, cap and plug wires, new air filter, changed engine and transmission oil,and filter.
Car started right up and runs very nice. Runs very nice for about 5 minutes and then cuts out like it not getting gas or loading up.
Placed a pressure gauge on the FI today and it stayed at 30-32 psi when primed and running. When the car starts to cut out the pressure is still 30-31 psi. Vacuum lines look good and in place.

Car is a California car and loaded with the EGR equipment, EGR pump is removed.

Request some advice on the next hoop to jump thru.

Has good charge and battery. Cleaned fuse box today, has good conductivity on the ground stap. Good charging system and battery.
I going to check the cyl pressure and valve tolorences tomorrow.
Running out of things I know what to look at. H E L P !!!!!!!!
Ian

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Bleyseng
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Post by Bleyseng » Sun Apr 24, 2005 3:36 pm

Is it cutting out or loading up? which one? Loading up (going rich) would mean the CHT is bad after 5 minutes of warm up.

Cutting out could be lots of things...... check for some sort of electrical problem. ie bad grounds or valve adjustment is off ie valves too tight.

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914Mothership
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loading up, plugs black, have to pump it to keep it alive

Post by 914Mothership » Sun Apr 24, 2005 10:43 pm

I pulled the distributor today and cleaned the injector contact and checked the gap again.
Then checked the valves. All valves were right on.
Ran out of time putting things together. I will finish tomorrow and check the timing and see how it runs.
Thanks for the input.
Ian

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Bleyseng
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Post by Bleyseng » Sun Apr 24, 2005 11:22 pm

Where in Washington are you?
Check on the 914club.com site

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914Mothership
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Post by 914Mothership » Sun Apr 24, 2005 11:54 pm

I'm in kennewick, WA on the east side. I go by Loser_Cruiser on 914club.com.

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Bleyseng
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Post by Bleyseng » Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:51 am

Ben M is in the tri cities area for help.

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914Mothership
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Post by 914Mothership » Wed Apr 27, 2005 12:54 am

calling Ben M where are you?

come rescue me!!!

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Bleyseng
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Post by Bleyseng » Wed Apr 27, 2005 9:07 pm

He is on the 914club.com board all the time so post a call for him there.

ZoSo914
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Post by ZoSo914 » Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:21 pm

This happend when we first bought ours(the ride home was lots of fun). I guess Its a common problem with the FI. CHT reads outta wack and the thing dosnt run. We switched to dual carbs....maybe thats the best option.

Guest

Post by Guest » Fri Apr 29, 2005 6:09 pm

:wink: CHT => Cylinder Head Temperture Sensor, I believe. It looks like the 50/50 :cry: question I have used points to the CHT. :wink:
I will this weekend cleaning connections and troubleshooting the FI system.
I am getting close to going will the Dual carbs. Not defeatd yet!!!

loser_cruiser

FI Solution or bust!!! I'll keep you posted.

Post by loser_cruiser » Fri Apr 29, 2005 6:10 pm

:wink: CHT => Cylinder Head Temperture Sensor, I believe. It looks like the 50/50 :cry: question I have used points to the CHT. :wink:
I will this weekend cleaning connections and troubleshooting the FI system.
I am getting close to going will the Dual carbs. Not defeatd yet!!!

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Bleyseng
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Post by Bleyseng » Fri Apr 29, 2005 6:55 pm

You guys are lame, you are going to spend $700 on a dual carb setup instead of fixing it with a $20 part.
You get way better mpg and hp with the FI than any carb setup unless you change the cam.

Geoff

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914Mothership
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Post by 914Mothership » Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:58 pm

Now that's hurtful!!! We are not lame!
We are still working on the FI.
Just calm down chief!
and keep the the information flowing.
We will keep you posted, just keep the ideas coming our way!
Owners of the Mothership. :wink:

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Bleyseng
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Post by Bleyseng » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:36 am

I also have a djet tester for loan if you need it. It troubleshoots the system.

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raygreenwood
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Post by raygreenwood » Tue May 03, 2005 2:46 am

Do not replace D-jet with twin carbs....there is no comparison.

A few things to think about. I concur about getting the descriptions straight about what the car is doing.

A few things to check. Is the auxiliary air regulator closing all the way?
Have you checked the "volume" output from the pump....as well as the pressure?

Remove the CHT and test it properly with hot water and a VOM.

You note that you have electrical problems. Have you checked the central ground connections at the case centerline under the plenum?

Have you checked the resistance of all FI parts....MPS, CHT etc.

What this sounds like is a fuel mixture imbalance. It is commonly caused by either incorrect baseline fuel mixture settings at the MPS, an out of spec CHT, high resistance all aorind in teh system, dirty trigger points, small vacuum leaks that open up as engine parts heat up weak ignition or a combination of all combined.

Also, your valve adjustment must be spot on.

What is your timing set at for idle?
Have you erradicated all vacum leaks? Have you tested the MPS for vacuum leaks......a bad diaphram causes this exact issue.

Parts that commonly leak vacuum are : Runner boots, injector seals, TB o-ring, MPS diaphram, Intake to head gaskets, oil breather gasket, PCV valve, Auxiliary air regulator and a faulty deceleration valve.

The trigger points being dirty, greasy or tarnished can cause this as well as high resistance in either channel.
Check these parts and get back to us. Ray

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