Oil consumption (What's normal)
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udidwht
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2004 11:33 pm
Oil consumption (What's normal)
I recently had my engine rebuilt went with Type-4 2056cc as follows:
AA 96mm Biral pistons/cylinders
AMC Headflow Masters 42x36mm heads w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm stroke
Dual 40mm Webers - 50 idles, 120 mains, F11 tubes, 28 venturies, 200 Airs etc..
73 Web Cam w/ Web solid lifters
Valvoline ZR1 20/50
All cooling tin & thermostat in place
The engine runs excellent and sounds very crisp. Has an S&S 4 in 1 header with single quiet pack muffler. I have approx. 2400 miles since rebuild and the builder told me that if it uses approx. .25 quart every 1000 miles or so that I shouldn't be alarmed and that its normal. So far, it appears that I'm using approx. 1/4 quart every 1000 miles. I know new/rebuilt engines do consume some oil but at what point or how many miles should this subside?
AA 96mm Biral pistons/cylinders
AMC Headflow Masters 42x36mm heads w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm stroke
Dual 40mm Webers - 50 idles, 120 mains, F11 tubes, 28 venturies, 200 Airs etc..
73 Web Cam w/ Web solid lifters
Valvoline ZR1 20/50
All cooling tin & thermostat in place
The engine runs excellent and sounds very crisp. Has an S&S 4 in 1 header with single quiet pack muffler. I have approx. 2400 miles since rebuild and the builder told me that if it uses approx. .25 quart every 1000 miles or so that I shouldn't be alarmed and that its normal. So far, it appears that I'm using approx. 1/4 quart every 1000 miles. I know new/rebuilt engines do consume some oil but at what point or how many miles should this subside?
Last edited by udidwht on Sat Apr 21, 2012 2:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Piledriver
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It probably won't subside much more.
T4s generally aren't built with valve stem seals, so 1qt/2k is the best you'll likely see, ever.
It will depend a great deal on your drivin habits though, as well as gearing...
A Bay generally runs 70 MPH@ ~4K, and is working hard. In a bug with a late trans or 914, ~3k and barely working...
T4s generally aren't built with valve stem seals, so 1qt/2k is the best you'll likely see, ever.
It will depend a great deal on your drivin habits though, as well as gearing...
A Bay generally runs 70 MPH@ ~4K, and is working hard. In a bug with a late trans or 914, ~3k and barely working...
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11914
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Mine rarely use any oil between oil changes. Roughly 1/2 pint per 3000 miles at worst. The most common source for this is actually poor baffeling and/or improper use of the PCV system. If the factory draw through system is used with the stock oil baffel...the oil consumption is near "0". This will also be prevalent in new engines whose rings are not fully seated yet. The excessive blow by carries lots of oil vapor with it in the crankcase vent stream. this is why proper baffeling is needed. Ray
- Piledriver
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- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 12:01 am
Hey Ray, I've been bored lately, and have been playing with something "wierd" as to crankcase/PCV/purge:
Are you vamiliar with Nicola Teslas "Valvular Conduit"?
It sucks as a check valve per se, but properly configured has a 5-10:1 directionality, and in a pulsed airstream might make a decent psuedo pump for PCV.
(Tesla said 200:1 but the best I've seen is <10:1)
Sadly my mold making skills suck.
Are you vamiliar with Nicola Teslas "Valvular Conduit"?
It sucks as a check valve per se, but properly configured has a 5-10:1 directionality, and in a pulsed airstream might make a decent psuedo pump for PCV.
(Tesla said 200:1 but the best I've seen is <10:1)
Sadly my mold making skills suck.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11914
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
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udidwht
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2004 11:33 pm
2056cc type 4
Hello Mike, My engine pulls really nice and sounds beautifully crisp. Haven't had it on a dyno but I'd say it is somewhere in the 100-110 horsepower range. Engine builder was Lloyd Mosher.mike373 wrote:Hey udidwht.........what is the power like on that engine??? How does it feel? I am going to be building something similar.
Mike
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udidwht
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2004 11:33 pm
PCV set up for 2056cc type 4
Hello Ray you were talking about the crankcase ventelation. How should it be set up? My oil vent on top of the engine only has a hose running from it over to the battery area venting into the air. It isnt hooked to anything.raygreenwood wrote:Mine rarely use any oil between oil changes. Roughly 1/2 pint per 3000 miles at worst. The most common source for this is actually poor baffeling and/or improper use of the PCV system. If the factory draw through system is used with the stock oil baffel...the oil consumption is near "0". This will also be prevalent in new engines whose rings are not fully seated yet. The excessive blow by carries lots of oil vapor with it in the crankcase vent stream. this is why proper baffeling is needed. Ray
Can you explain in easy terms how it should be hooked up?
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11914
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
The stock PCV system uses a pull through system. On the fuel injection...it goes like this: from the air cleaner...to the rocker boxes...through the pushrod tubes ...through the case...through the "Z" baffel cast in at top of case.....out the black breather. By the way...that blacck square breather tower is an excellent oil baffel design.
The key is...that it is "pulled" through the system on the original design.
The nipple for the hose on the oil baffel....the one that come out the top on the FI engines....with the built in funnel....IS the PCV valve. Its usually in poor shape inside. If you have the flat style black box...with the side exit metal nipple...it has no pcv valve inside. That then went to the plenum on the EFI cars....so manifold vacuum pulled the clean air through he case into the manifold.
On twin carbss, what you needto do is hook up teh 12mm hose to the oil breather box...then install a balance pipe between the carbs. Preferably down low close to the heads. Then...even if you have the PCV version of the black breather box...(the one with the funnel)......crack out the plastic disc inside so it is a straight through shot. Now....since you have lower vacuum issues on twin carbs (also the reason to keep the balance tube entrance down low in the manifold)....you need to put a restriction in the 12mm tube coming from the breather box. Usse a piece of plastic or metal rod with a 3-4mm hole in it...so instead of a PCV popping in and out you have constant flow. It will be more than enough. Ray
The key is...that it is "pulled" through the system on the original design.
The nipple for the hose on the oil baffel....the one that come out the top on the FI engines....with the built in funnel....IS the PCV valve. Its usually in poor shape inside. If you have the flat style black box...with the side exit metal nipple...it has no pcv valve inside. That then went to the plenum on the EFI cars....so manifold vacuum pulled the clean air through he case into the manifold.
On twin carbss, what you needto do is hook up teh 12mm hose to the oil breather box...then install a balance pipe between the carbs. Preferably down low close to the heads. Then...even if you have the PCV version of the black breather box...(the one with the funnel)......crack out the plastic disc inside so it is a straight through shot. Now....since you have lower vacuum issues on twin carbs (also the reason to keep the balance tube entrance down low in the manifold)....you need to put a restriction in the 12mm tube coming from the breather box. Usse a piece of plastic or metal rod with a 3-4mm hole in it...so instead of a PCV popping in and out you have constant flow. It will be more than enough. Ray
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udidwht
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2004 11:33 pm
PCV set for dual carb 2056
Thanks a lot for the advice, would you happen to have any photos/diagrams showing the arrangement of the setup. I do not have a balance tube only have a vacuum hose off #3 for brake, opposite end of that tube is plugged. This hose is below carb at #3 cylinder on the intake manifold. Also what parts would I need and approx. cost. Much appreciated for the help.
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11914
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
If your heads had the shirt tube installed in each side when you got them....and if you have the black square breather cover...the one with the wire bale holding on over that big square hole in the top of the case....you already have 90% of it. You simply need a piece of metal bar about 13mm diameter...about 1/2" long...to dfrill a 3mm hole in to slip into the tube coming from the black breather box. You will need a nipple to be installed in each sides "y" under the base of each carb...as close to the split in the manifold "y" as possible. Cpnnect the ledt side to the right...and put a T in the midlle to connect to the hose for the black box. Done. Then readjust your idle and fuel mixture. Ray
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udidwht
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2004 11:33 pm
PCV set up for 2056
No, I do not have the heads fitted with any. The breather box on top only has a hose running from it over to the area where the battery sits, into the air.
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udidwht
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2004 11:33 pm
PCV set up for 2056
One other thing I forgot. With my current set up. It would be safe to say that I'm probably going to have some oil consumption and that this should be expected. I'm currently using roughly 1/2 qt. - 3/4qt every 1,000 miles or so. Engine has approx. 2,400 miles on it since complete rebuild. I've been told that it will most likely be a few thousand miles or so before its thoroughly broke in.