ok, so i'm in the middle of putting EFI back on my bus and i've run into my first real problem...
the problem occurs where the cold start injector (little blue square) is butting up against the vaccum housing on my dizzy. i have NO space to plug the injector in at all. so my questions is... can i unscrew the vaccuum housing on my dizzy and flip it the other way or is there some mechanical action going on in there? will a bunch of springs jump out and attack me? i think i could make this work if i could just flip it over.
It will only fit on one way. You have 2 options at this point- 1) You can pull the drive gear and move it a couple of teeth. Or 2) You can remove the dog at the bottom of the distributor and reinstall it 180 degrees (make sure nothing is going to interfere on the other side), Keep in mind if you pull the drive gear to make sure the shims at the bottom are accounted for!
Good luck.
greenacarina wrote: Or 2) You can remove the dog at the bottom of the distributor and reinstall it 180 degrees (make sure nothing is going to interfere on the other side), Keep in mind if you pull the drive gear to make sure the shims at the bottom are accounted for!
Good luck.
This is a 5 minute fix and is alot easier than pulling the distributor driveshaft.
option 1 sounds the most realistic b/c there is even less room 180 degrees around.
so as for pulling the drive gear and moving it a couple teeth, are you talking about something in the dizzy or would this involve pulling the engine to get to?
when i reinstall the dog 180 degrees from its current position, will that make the dizzy sit 180 degrees in the opposite direction? if so, it seems like the shroud would be in the way at that point.
Option 1 requires removal of the distributor and removing the driveshaft that's under it. The shaft is driven off a gear on the crankshaft, so reinstalling it a few teeth off will rotate the distributor the same abount.
Pulling the drive is simple. But there are a few things to beware of. The thrust washer underneath ...must not drop into thecase. Get a long strong magnet. There are two ways to easily get the drive out. (1) buy a long left hand thread 8mm/ 1.25 bolt. The inside of the drive where the spring sits....is threaded left hand. Before you start....spray theheck out of the top of the drive mechanism and the case surrounding the bore with chemtool or fast drying solvent so you can mark both the drive itself and the case....as to where it originally was...for reference. Thread in the left hand hand thread bolt. When you keep turning it to the leaft after it is seated...the drive mechanism will start to rise a slight bit...like 1/4-3/8"....as it is a helical gear on the bottom. The alignment marks you made with the sharpy will start to misalign at this point. At the point where the drive quits rising....is when the teeth have disengaged. So...now you know just how far one tooth is. Nlow pull straight out...and catch the washer underneath. Then move the drive two tooth amounts past where it was when you pulled straight out....and push back in. It will engage the teeth on the crank gear...and start turning itself one tooth spacing back in until it seats. Before re-installing...use the dowel or long screwdriver method in the book...for dropping the washer back down into the bore and centering it.
The second way to get this drive out...is to buy a drive puler for about $40. They work on all VW and many american drives. They are a "T" handle with a clutch on the end. I personnally like the bolt the best...because it never slips. Let me know if this does not make sense. Ray
What Ray said, just adding I have had %100 sucess over the years using the bamboo rods for holding up tomatos for pulling the drive.
Just find a bit that 's just a little big, cut clean and tap in place.
Works great, and my wife buys loads of the bamboo stuff.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
Can?t you just loosen the clamp and rotate the distributor 90 degrees and move the wires one over the opposite way you rotated the distributor? Or rotate it 180 degrease and move the wires to the opposite plug?
so just to clarify - does the process of moving the drive gear one tooth invlove pulling the engine? if not, then great.
apokrandt - moving the dizzy 180 degrees puts it in a position of having even less space due to the engine tin. we had to use an air hammer to beat the tin in a bit for the mallory to fit in the first place.
apokrandt wrote:Can?t you just loosen the clamp and rotate the distributor 90 degrees and move the wires one over the opposite way you rotated the distributor? Or rotate it 180 degrease and move the wires to the opposite plug?
I would rotate it 90 degrees as well. Simple solution. . .
It won't fit if rotated 90. You would have to design a new cap clip. What you can't see is the amount of sheet metal movement that's been done.
Trust me whn I say "IF you've never tried it, YOU haven't a clue on what will work"
nate@nateswaterart wrote:
apokrandt wrote:Can?t you just loosen the clamp and rotate the distributor 90 degrees and move the wires one over the opposite way you rotated the distributor? Or rotate it 180 degrease and move the wires to the opposite plug?
I would rotate it 90 degrees as well. Simple solution. . .
