Wow!

Max keltvik · Post by **Max keltvik** » Sun Oct 31, 2004 1:51 am

Now I have a Wasser case home and it's a real nice looking case! I'l get back to report progres of making it a oxy...

MnMike · Post by **MnMike** » Sun Oct 31, 2004 4:43 am

I just bought one too, not sure how long of a project it will be due to funding, but I am thinking of 4" finned cylinders and 86mm+ stroke with AF or CE heads on a "sometimes street" engine. I might sell my bug or my DC to fund it, I want to have the heads ported and maybe use roller rockers or Schubeck ceramics. I see no point in doing this if it isn't exotic and strange, as I already have a streetable 170-180 horse 2276 that I built a few years ago and it is going strong...I am really impressed with the way every machining mark is still like new. You can tell the case halves never shuffled and the bearing bores arent beat out, but... damn these cylinder studs are hard to get out! I have one that isn't responding to heat so my case is laying on its side with penetrating fluid working on it.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sun Oct 31, 2004 11:21 am

I have a set of 101.6mm p/c and a 90mm crank, heads I'm looking at Scats split but I don't know how good they are? I have a set S/F heads that I'm looking at to re weld? One thing I know is that a turbo can't be bad for my street race 57Ghia

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Mon Nov 01, 2004 3:01 pm

MnMike are you using Kroil? Its the best pentetrating fluid I have ever used. Rocky

MnMike · Post by **MnMike** » Mon Nov 01, 2004 3:12 pm

Thanks Rocky, was using 3m... have to get some Kroil. I ended up letting the fluid penetrate and re-appling for 24 hours and then hit it with a torch lots of muscle flexing and it came out like it was never a problem. I bought my engine from a local yard, it had been dissasembled and then slid back together with no head nuts or PR tubes so it was kinda crusty.....at least they never took the case apart.

Max keltvik · Post by **Max keltvik** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:11 am

Now I dropt my 90mm crank in the case with rods, it's like it was made for big cranks! Needs only a small amount of clering of the case at the base of the cylinder. Not like a t-1 case there the top of the case needs to be very thin.

MnMike · Post by **MnMike** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:45 am

So now the question is, what about the cam? If you get a small base circle cam, how big could you go? 92mm?

Max keltvik · Post by **Max keltvik** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 9:00 am

What is a small base cam?
I have made the centers of my cam 20mm thick to make room for the rods.

MnMike · Post by **MnMike** » Sun Nov 07, 2004 6:09 am

The cam lobes are ground on a smaller circle so the tip of the lobe isn't as high. This will let your lifter extend out the bore further, but is a good way to get more clearance from the lobe and rods, if needed. I believe berg sells them, but don't know if you will need it, I havn't clearanced anything with chevy journals yet....

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sun Nov 07, 2004 12:10 pm

Yes, then a 92mm crank will go in if the lobes are lower...

/Max

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Sun Nov 07, 2004 1:42 pm

Guys, as the crank gets longer in stroke you must cut more & more from between the lobes of the cam don't turn it in a lathe machine only the amount needed for your clearance, go to www.rockyjennings.com go to machine work then camshaft click on pictures of camshafts to see the ways the cam can be clearanced, the sides machined with max. radius for the most stength IMO. Take your time . Thanks Rocky

MnMike · Post by **MnMike** » Sun Nov 07, 2004 2:10 pm

Yep, in my 2276 I have 82mm crank with vw journals and eagle rods with no profiling on the cap, it interfeared so badly that it wouldn't even turn over:) I used a die grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut between the lobes, and test fit many times so I wouldn't remove too much. I think if you go too big on stroke a billet $teal cam is ne$$a$ary.....

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Sun Nov 07, 2004 2:28 pm

MnMike, I have ground on cams for clearance between the lobes many times with a hand held grinder in the past, but building numbers of long stroke engines, I built a fixture seen on my web site it does a super nice job & they come out primo every time. Rocky

Max keltvik · Post by **Max keltvik** » Tue Dec 14, 2004 1:26 pm

http://thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page ... _id=100007

Wally · Post by **Wally** » Tue Dec 14, 2004 1:50 pm

pocketrocket wrote:Guys, as the crank gets longer in stroke you must cut more & more from between the lobes of the cam don't turn it in a lathe machine only the amount needed for your clearance, go to www.rockyjennings.com go to machine work then camshaft click on pictures of camshafts to see the ways the cam can be clearanced, the sides machined with max. radius for the most stength IMO. Take your time . Thanks Rocky

That is very nice work Rocky!
This makes s/body like the wbx even more; with a type 4, the rod touches the lobe dead center, so this makes life so much better with rediculous long strokes in an oxyboxer

!

What make cams are best to notch like that (strongest)?

Thanks,
Walter

PS Max, how far are you with your engine? Have you got a 90mm crank already? If so what make is best / availibility?