timing 74 2.0

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HB

timing 74 2.0

Post by HB » Thu Apr 15, 2004 11:50 am

I tried setting my timing on my 2.0 but when I set it I forgot to clamp or block the vaccumm lines to the vaccumm advance. After I drove the car for a while and it drove ok but then the idle got really bad. The plugs are really dirty with carbon. I realized at the time that I did not block the vaccumm lines when setting the timing. I changed the plugs and re-checked the timing while blocking the vac lines. It had no affect on the timing. There are two vac lines - should I block both of them? Shouldn't there be an affect on the timing?

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jloh
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Post by jloh » Thu Apr 15, 2004 2:39 pm

you should set timing with the vacc lines not connected but not blocked. then re-check with them connected to verify that the vacc advance is functioning properly. do 28 @ 3k disconnected and that should give you around 32 when connected.

HB

timing 74 2.0

Post by HB » Thu Apr 15, 2004 2:44 pm

Can I 'suck' on the vac lines and to see if the induction pick-up (no points) in my distributor moves? In other words is there a way to verify that the vac is working?

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jloh
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Post by jloh » Thu Apr 15, 2004 4:05 pm

suck on the vac line that goes to the port on the outside of the "can" withthe cap and rotor off. the dizzy guts should move.

the inside one is the retard (what do you have this hooked to?)

HB

timing 74 2.0

Post by HB » Thu Apr 15, 2004 4:24 pm

I will check the vac tonight. However both the vac line and the retard line go to the throddle body.

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jloh
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Post by jloh » Thu Apr 15, 2004 6:55 pm

what kind of carb?

i've been told to leave the retard line open to the air.

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raygreenwood
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Post by raygreenwood » Fri Apr 16, 2004 1:38 am

Actually the retard is beneficial on D-jet on high speed over-run and coasting. It only operates when the throttle is completely closed, so it does not hinder performance. It should be adjusted to only pull you back to whatever you set your idle timing at. On deceleration, your rpm can be high, the throttle closed, fuel mixture lean...and advance high because of the rpms and the centrifugal advance. This can cause detonation in hot weather. The retard can prevent that. Ray

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jloh
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Post by jloh » Fri Apr 16, 2004 6:33 am

thats why i asked about carbs.

i junked the DVDA (vacc diaphram didnt work anyway) and scored an SVDA for $35 from a local mechanic/restoration guy.

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Dave_Darling
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Post by Dave_Darling » Fri Apr 16, 2004 12:20 pm

You don't actually have to plug the vacuum lines when setting the timing on a D-jet motor. It's good shop practice to do so, as it keeps you in the habit (there are cars where you do have to plug the lines) but it doesn't have an effect one way or the other on setting the timing.

Sounds like your mixture is off, not your timing.

--DD

HB

timing 74 2.0

Post by HB » Fri Apr 16, 2004 3:50 pm

Thanks Dave for that info.
I set the timing without pulling the vac line and it seemed fine when I checked it with the lines pulled.

I do have a rebuilt distributor (new) and I am thinking about installing it to eliminate the distributor. The current distributor has electronic pick-up. The new distributor has points. I assume I should trade out the points for the electronic pick-up. My question is the new distributor with the points has one wire versus the electronic pick-up has two wires which both go to the coil. I am not familiar with the coil - which side of the coil does the wire on the new distributor go to (my coil has two sets of three electrical connectors)?

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jloh
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Re: timing 74 2.0

Post by jloh » Fri Apr 16, 2004 4:13 pm

HB wrote:Thanks Dave for that info.
I set the timing without pulling the vac line and it seemed fine when I checked it with the lines pulled.
you should do it the other way around.
HB wrote:I do have a rebuilt distributor (new) and I am thinking about installing it to eliminate the distributor. The current distributor has electronic pick-up. The new distributor has points. I assume I should trade out the points for the electronic pick-up. My question is the new distributor with the points has one wire versus the electronic pick-up has two wires which both go to the coil. I am not familiar with the coil - which side of the coil does the wire on the new distributor go to (my coil has two sets of three electrical connectors)?
how old is the electronic. i've had them go bad. you might try the points if they are known good/new. then ttry the electronic.

the condensor (green) wire should be on the + side of the coil. usually the only thing plugged in there.

HB

timing 74 2.0

Post by HB » Fri Apr 16, 2004 4:23 pm

Thanks for the info.
I don't know how old the electronic pick-up is. I have had the car for 3 years so probably 5 plus years. I think the pick-up is ok. I will try the new distributor first and then switch it. Thanks for the info.

I think you asked if I have carbs? I have d-jet fuel injection.

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Dave_Darling
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Post by Dave_Darling » Sat Apr 17, 2004 10:37 am

To clarify: You do set the timing with the vacuum hoses unplugged from the distributor. They will affect the timing (especially the advance hose, if it is hooked up correctly) at 3500 RPM in neutral. Which is where the timing is set with a D-jet motor.

You can see some advance/retard effect by sucking on the vacuum lines, but it's far better to use one of the hand vacuum pumps such as "Mity Vac", because that can generate a whole lot more vacuum than you can. No matter how much you suck. ;)

Next, the green points wire goes to the negative terminal on the coil, not the (+) terminal!! The black wire that feeds in +12V goes on the positive, the green points wire goes on the negative. The black/purple wire (tach signal) goes on the (-) as well.

Which kind of electronic points replacement gizmo do you have? Most of them have one wire going to (+) to power the unit, and one going to (-) for the unit to provide a signal. Some have other wires that get hooked up elsewhere as well. You don't want to hook them up backwards, or you can smoke them. Newer Pertronix seem to be especially vulnerable to that.

--DD

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jloh
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Post by jloh » Sat Apr 17, 2004 12:01 pm

[quote=dave]Next, the green points wire goes to the negative terminal on the coil, not the (+) terminal!! The black wire that feeds in +12V goes on the positive, the green points wire goes on the negative. The black/purple wire (tach signal) goes on the (-) as well.
[/quote]

damm....sorry dude! thats what i get for posting at work!!!

HB

timing 74 2.0

Post by HB » Mon Apr 19, 2004 2:00 pm

Unfortunately I didn't get the last message before attempting the new distributor. I hooked up the green wire to the + and the car didn't start. I then got nervous and put the old distributor back in and hooked it up exactly as I removed it (it has two wires red that goes to positive and black that goes to negative). The car would not start.
I hooked up my timing light to the #1 wire to see if I was getting a spark and the light would flash as I tried to start the car but the car would not start.
Any thought? Did I burn something out having the green wire to the +?

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