Is there A way to bypass The mustache bar in the back of A bus.?
MY Stock engine Took A poo.. And i have a Brand new 1600dp
It maybee has 1000 miles on it...Nice motor runs strong..
However it does not have the holes tapped nor the spot to tap..
For the mustache bar to hold it in place..So my question is..
Can I Make a new traction bar or motor Mount of some sort..
have any of you Done or Seen Anything Close to this..
Your question raises a question - answer mine and I can answer yours.
All `72 buses sold in the US had 1700cc Type IV engines, and the rear mount bar is not usually referred to as a moustache bar on them - it doesn't bolt to the case, there are brackets which do and rubber mounts between them and the bar....
So, is this really a `71, or perhaps a `72 bootlegged in from south of the border or Europe which came with the 1600cc Type I engine?
the case number is AE727277 If that helps....
The Frame number is..2202197824.......You got me...
I dont know where it came from..
The bar Has On the ends where it goes to the frame Rubber mounts..
Then it bolts to the case with 3 long bolts with spacers in them..i have photos...
Are you sure the frame # was not beginning with 210? Either way...I would say that you have a transitional bus. Probably made in the last weeks of July 1971 or in the first week or so of August 1971. August is the start of the 1972 model year. July of 1971 had AE series engines. They were the last of the 1600 buses. Iit was not uncommon to have some chassis/engine/model year overlap.
And yes..you have to have the rear hanger bar with the three long bolts. If the bosses are in the case...its not too hard to tap them out....but oversize them to use solid threaded inserts with better thread area. NOT helicoils. If you don't have the bosses to drill the holes....I'm not sure how other people have handled that. Do a search. Ray
raygreenwood wrote:Are you sure the frame # was not beginning with 210? Either way...I would say that you have a transitional bus. Probably made in the last weeks of July 1971 or in the first week or so of August 1971. August is the start...blah blah blah...
220 is a typical VIN for a 1970 bus/"station wagon" (210 would be a 1970 panel van). Nothing odd or unusual here, just a misidentification of the model year. It's the third digit of the VIN which corresponds to the last digit of the model year. Kubelkid66, what does the title say?
kubelkid66 wrote:Why not, do They Break???
They aren't a great idea, since you end up hanging much of the engine/trans weight from the oil pump studs and one 8mm case through-bolt, but they do work. You'll need a FLAT oil pump cover and more than likely will need slightly longer studs; the moustache bar will typically end up riding slightly closer to the bumper than it did stock unless you shorten the pads on it - this can tweak the rubber mounts a little and make the interference with the heaterbox-to-muffler clamps worse - but the problems aren't insurmountable. The "Mickey-Mount" has a bad reputation primarily because it's typically used by hacks so it's rare that you'll find one that was given a chance, but if installed in a workmanlike manner it can serve for years without any problems...do be sure to check the tightness of the hardware several times a year.
The engine you've got is out of a beetle - so wont have the 3 mounting points.
It is possible to get a mounting bracket which uses the the 2 bolts which hold the case together (below the oil pump) - it is a cast item and means you wont end up pulling the oilpump studs out.
I'm using the pump cover at the moment but when I get chance to take the engine out I will fit the other bracket (I've got one waiting to be fitted).
I got one here in the UK for the equivelent of $38 but I don't know what shipping would cost to the US.
So here is what I did....I think it will do the trick...
I Made A traction Bar Sorta deal....I made it from Heavy duty Steel..
I got Some pics...Let me know what you think,,..
P.S. I had A new Small mishap/Problem come up..When swapin out engines..I broke my Throtle cable..I have another one..And have done it on a ghia..is it the same.....
Oh, yeah, that'll be much better than a Mickey-Mount (he said sarcastically).
I don't see any point in telling you the difference in the throttle cables, you're going to do it however you want anyway.
Okay, this may be one time that I recommend to you that you get the oil pump mount - if only to get rid of that piece of S H I T you've hung under your bus.
Ok so i ask For help..nobody tells me jack.....So I come Up with My own Plan....Whats wrong with my mount..
And yes I would Have listened to what you had to say about the cable..
I dont just do things my own way..I Try to do things the right way..
I had no Idea that mickey-mount was even A option till the mount was in place.. Im sorry I dont see the problem.. Some one please point it out for me..
Do you think It wont hold...Or does it just look ugly..
while drilling out the case and putting inserts in is the best way to go. your mount will eventually fail. most likely at the frame where the threaded rod goes through. remember the weight of the engine and transmission is being supported. your design does not provide a great deal of rigidity fo left to right travel. shift linkage problems are a likely resut as well. Please do not feel as anyone is picking on you. your mount would work in a pinch but is not a long term solution. the mickey mount is also a short term or high maintenance fix. Side note the AE case some have the bolt holes some dont they do have plenty of material to drill into.
kubelkid66 wrote:Ok so i ask For help..nobody tells me jack.....So I come Up with My own Plan....Whats wrong with my mount....
The big problem will be self-evident the first time you let out on the clutch and the engine wraps over to the left - your bar supports the weight, but has nothing to handle the counter-torque; the front mount can't do it very well either and will fail prematurely.
Be sure you get the cable for the a 1970, not a 1972 (need I point out that you'd have had an answer to the first question immediately if you'd properly identified the year of the vehicle?). Replacement is straightforward but you'll typically find a lot of slop in the bellcrank under the pedal which'll rob you of cable travel. Tighten that up while you're there - you may need to weld up the hole to restore it to standard size, or ream it out to allow use of a slightly larger (hardened) pivot bolt - use washers to shim up any excess sideplay.
Yep...as Marc noted...since you are not attached actually to the bar, it will simply beat up and down on the bar. Take it slow. Really the best option that has been presented is the flat cover method...but even that has issues. This will sooner or later cause fretting and leakage at the oil pump cover and misalignment or stripping of the oil pump studs. Until you can do that....the flat plate method, either do not drive this bus...or try something else.
You need to be able to "arrest" the up and down movement of the engine....not so much hold it up. I have seen the mustache bar used with a piece of plate and a rubber bumper under the bottom of the engine...but you will also need something on top of the case...possibly attached at the breather tower...and also bolted to the bar, to keep it from popping upward. this could get you by until done right, but it has to be done right.
As for the rest of you...everyone is a beginner sometime...don't be so short fused. I have the same problem with people not taking ALL the steps I lay out for them working with FI. Losing patience just makes people walk away....and makes you seem like an a*shole...which you might not be at all. It takes a while to learn which things people tell you... are important when you are just starting out...especially since few of us are recognised as household words in VW service . Cut some slack ...I'm sure others have cut you some in the past. Ray
