Type V vs. Type IV

Advokat · Post by **Advokat** » Mon Jul 14, 2003 1:53 pm

I have done a little bit of reading about the type V engine and my biggest question is why is this configuration better than a type IV? Is it because of the interchangeability of many type I parts?

Thanks,
Rick

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Thu Jul 17, 2003 3:15 pm

And much cheaper to make into an upright configuration!

I like it better as off the bat you get a stroker crank to work from.

Advokat · Post by **Advokat** » Thu Jul 17, 2003 4:24 pm

Okay, so the type V uses the regular doghouse fan and cooling tin? No DTM/Oregon Performance or Jake's new shroud necessary?

Thanks

Think about a Oxy · Post by **Think about a Oxy** » Thu Jul 17, 2003 7:33 pm

I would like to buy a set.

Think about a Oxy · Post by **Think about a Oxy** » Thu Jul 17, 2003 7:34 pm

Where do I buy the offset inserts for the Studs
I would like to buy a set.

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Fri Jul 18, 2003 7:13 am

Jake also will have a TI style shroud just like the TIV, it will work on a TV engine with no sweat.

Post by **Tom Notch** » Fri Jul 18, 2003 9:26 am

Stock T1 sheet metal can be fitted to an oxyboxer.

Advokat wrote:Okay, so the type V uses the regular doghouse fan and cooling tin? No DTM/Oregon Performance or Jake's new shroud necessary?

Thanks

Advokat · Post by **Advokat** » Fri Jul 18, 2003 7:00 pm

Alright, but I still do not have a clear answer as to why the type V is better. I understand that some of the parts are interchangeable with the type I and that these are less expensive, but it sounds like some of the necessary machine work must be pretty pricey; thus, eating up the savings?

Maybe I asked incorrectly-Hey Jake, why is the type IV better?

Thanks,
Rick

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Fri Jul 18, 2003 7:08 pm

Well I'm building my first T5 right now, so I* cannot really compare the two. Atleast not yet.

All the machining for a T5 makes alot of room for errors and inconsistencies, thats a fact.

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Fri Jul 18, 2003 8:22 pm

>the necessary machine work must be pretty pricey<

Not necessarily.

Here is all that needs done:
1. Cut water jackets off. Not a big deal and can be done at home if you are careful and have the tools... Prepare for a snow storm of AL bits.

2. Machine case and insert offset head stud spacers. This is the tough part.

3. Lathe down T1 94 cylinders to fit a WBX jug hole. In theory anyone with a lathe can do this if given the right deminsions. Figuring out the righ deminsions is the hard part to get deck perfect.

Optional 4. Sleave the T4 size lifter bores for T1 lifters. Or just stick with T4 solids or hydros. The T5 cams do not suffer like the T4s.

Uses T1 slightly modified tinware and remote oil cooler.

T5 advantages:
1. Lighter T1 rods
2. Lighter T1 94 pistons
3. T1 cams!
4. Hydro lifters (good for daily drivers where the T4s die because of the cam)
5. 76.4mm stroker
6. T4 Flywheel with bolts instead of the darn T1 gland nut
7. Nice built in oil filter location with bigger oil passages than a T4.
8. T1 oil pump drops right in for full flow, T4 needs mods
9. A little appreciated benefit of NO BOTTOM PLATES OR SCREENS! Just an oil drain plug like in modern cars.
10. Better rocker arms and no stupid bails to keep pushrod tubes in.
11. 2109cc of pure torque!
12. T1 HEADS and exhaust! Repeat that 100 times until it sinks in.

For the super HP all stars out there you can get 4" Chevy pistons and keep the stock T5 studs. The killer is you need to get special race heads that probably will not last on the street.

Jiust asking · Post by **Jiust asking** » Fri Jul 18, 2003 8:26 pm

Where do I get the inserts for the head studs?