HIGH SPEED VIBRATION?!?!?

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jloh
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HIGH SPEED VIBRATION?!?!?

Post by jloh »

when traveling at hghway speed +/- 70 i sometimes pickup a slight vibration that seems to grow then die then come back at irregular intervals. I am a novice with cars and need help with diagnosis. I just had the newish tires balanced, but not rotated. suspension etc all original, around 200k miles. could i need to lube the axel/etc? tie rods ends? ball joints? wheel bearings? i have a bently manual, but it just says inspect....i dont know what to look for though! :?
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raygreenwood
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Post by raygreenwood »

If it comes and goes at constant speed, it is usually a wheel bearing burning up, or running dry. As it begins to overheat, the grease turns liquid and runs into the rollers. The sound and vibrartion diminishes...then comes back. It could also be a tire wearing improperly and changing pitch as it heats up. Swap tires fron to back and see if it helps...then check the bearings. Ray
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jloh
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Post by jloh »

wheel bearings....thats what i thought actually. there is some minor feathering on the outside left front tire. nothing real pronounced.

i was looking through my bentley manual and checking/repacking seemed difficult and there were specailized tools that i need. they are a regular maintenance item though, so you'd think it wouldnt be too hard. on my bug it wasnt hard at all....they just came right out.

thanks for the tips....i'll rotate the tires and try to dig deeper into the wheel bearings.
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raygreenwood
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Post by raygreenwood »

The wheel bearings should be very simple. Actually, they are cheap enough..that they are not worth repacking. Pull the caliper loose...hang it to the side, remove the spindle nut...rotor comes right off. Two new bearings 5 oz of grease and a new seal. You shouldget away for about $25 per side. Feathering on the outside could also signal wear in either ball joints...or just plain out of alignment. Ray
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jloh
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Post by jloh »

thanks alot ray for the tips....we all have to start learning somewhere!

are these parts i can get locally or do i have to order online?

looked back through the bentley manual this morning and it says the outer races have to be removed with a press. should i just pack them with grease while still installed? does the grease seal press in manually? the manual also says you should check the axial play with a dial indicator, anyway around that?

i'd really like to at least "bandaid" the situation with relubrication or at least inspect the bearings. i plan to have the alignment checked along with teh ball joints /tierods etc this month by my mechanic.

also, when checking the ball joints: the bentley says i need some special tools to measure play , it doesnt say anything about a visual inspection, etc. any tips?

i really appreciate the help.

my bus is my only source of transportaion so i need to work on it today! i dont want to damage anything driving 60 miles a day to work and back (mostly at 70 mph).
busman70

Post by busman70 »

If the tie rods, ball joints, bearings, shocks and tires all check out then it might be time to replace the Relay Pin & Bushings. The tie rods connect directly to this often ignored part. Since you have a lot of miles it is a good idea. The kit is cheap $40 +/-. Don't worry about having the VW tool, I turned a rod to the ID/OD of the bushings and drove them out with a hammer from the bottom to the top. Installation is the reverse, first drive in the top bushing starting at the bottom, then install the bottom bushing. Don't forget to remove the zerk fitting prior to removal.
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jloh
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Post by jloh »

ok...

the bus has about 200k however the engine just has about 45k. i just dont really know what to look for, except the shocks, they are fine no boucing at all. the tires are rather new also. i just bought it from the second owner a month ago. it hadnt been driven much in the past year, but had been tuned up, oil changed etc right before i bought it. i had the tires balanced and they were off a bit. i meant to have a shop "inspect" it before i took her home but ran out of time!

i might just take her to my mechanic and have him point out what to look for. i'm probably due for a front end service at least.

thanks alot
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raygreenwood
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Post by raygreenwood »

To lube the bearings, you will have to remove them anyway. Which entails all of the above that I wrote. Its simpler to replace them. They can be gotten at most any autoparts store. Make sure they are at least Japanese, American, German or even mexican. Avoid the chinese bearngs....poor cage material. Ray
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busdude
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Post by busdude »

there are rubber boots around the tierods and if you have them ball joints too if those are ripped or cracked you should have them replaced or do it your self


pu bus in the air in from and grab sides of wheel and move if its lose something need to be replaced slight move is ok but biger move is not good try up and down that could be it too if all checks well i say allignment
metropoj
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Post by metropoj »

The Ball Joints will be the hardest to do, I had to take them to a suspension shop to press them into place.

I have replaced my Ball Joints and a fresh steering box but still all over the place. I have more to do, as mentioned there is a centre pivot in the beam that the link connection from the steering box arm connects to, as well as all tie rods .... this copper bushing is 99% of the time shot over the years. Pick up a kit, no special tools required. I read on Type2.com I believe that a guy used a socket ( 15mm ? or something like that ) to push them out. The ONLY special tools you'll need is to do the ball joints, I suggest taking them to someone to do .....

Yeah Ray is right on the money, not worth repacking ESPECIALLY if there is any scoring or discolouration ....


Wow, goin +- 70 ? You're a brave man ...... :)
Although One in a while I do the same, I just make sure my Wife and newborn aren't commuting with me ....
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jloh
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Post by jloh »

gotta get to work! the other way takes me through a million stop lights!

it rides great ....just starting to pickup on that vibration.....thinks its the alignment.....i'll havfe someone look at it....

otherwise, i'm inspecting the balljoints, tierod ends etc when my wife gets home (need an extra hand to move the steering wheel)

thanks alot
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jloh
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Post by jloh »

ok.

ball joints dont ahve any movement at all, but ive got a cuople of worn out boots. only one tierod boot cracked.

i'm getting the alignment checked in the am.
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jloh
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Post by jloh »

i had the front end aligned this morning. the shop i took it to couldnt do the rear while i was waiting because they said its alot more involved and would take 2-3 hours + the right rear wheel has been hit sometime in the past which bent at the very least the lower shock bolt (its obviously bent). i examined the ball jonts and tierod ends and jsut had a couple of crakced boots...the mechanic also checked them out and said everything was nice and tight.

now i have a whole different problem:

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=51499
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