Raising your suspension shouldn't come into the equation of length. If your axels ever get to the point of being LEVEL they will bind.
What do you mean? By the suspension being raised, I meant the trailing arms and stubs are farther below the centerline of the CV output flange on the transmission, thus increasing the ground clearance. Sedan axles in a sedan torsion with a bus transmission will work, but as the suspension cycles up, that distance gets shorter, and the 16 1/4" axles will usually bottom on the spline and break a CV. The 16" axles are naturally a tad shorter to work with the slightly wider bus transmission and they also have a longer spline. This will usually eliminate the breakage problem when the suspension cycles. 15 5/8" axles sometimes pull the cages out of the CV slightly, so I prefer the 16" axles. This has been my experience anyway.
I did my years ago so I'm not certain of which axel goes with what. What I'm refering to is , when you raise/tweak your torsion your cv centerline is higher than your stubs. But what happens when you cycle past the half way point? On the way down to bottoming out? The shortest distance in the fulcrum of the swing is everything on centerline. As long as you have some free play in your shaft
at centerline. You'll be fine. I strapped my trailing arm to a jack just like when you raise your spring rate. To compress the suspension to check for play.