Any tricks when setting valve train geometry?

BenI · Post by **BenI** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 4:12 pm

I'm at this point in the rebuild and am wondering what's the best way to tell if your adjuster screw is exactly along the axis of the valve. Thanks for any guidance.

Ben

Post by **Marc** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 4:36 pm

Some use a small 90° template (a drafting triangle, for example) and set it across the retainer top to give them something to sight against. If you're using very light checking springs the retainer may not be sitting squarely so watch out for that. You can see enough of the exhaust valve through the port to line up a straightedge parallel to it and sight against that. There are other ways but those are the most straightforward.

truckersmike · Post by **truckersmike** » Thu Jun 26, 2003 9:47 am

This is how I did my "poor man's" geometry on my 1904. I took a garbage bag tie, the paper kind, and made sure it was very straight. I then used this to mark the position of the spring (any) when it was all the way closed. I measured the top part of the spring, the tie is skinny enough to get in there. After that, I put the rockers on (making sure they are at a loose 0 gauge) and rotated the engine until the valve was pushed all the way in then I marked that. Now all you have to do is find where the middle would be, on the tie, between the two marks you made and put another mark there. Now rotate the engine backwards until you line the spring up with the center mark you made. Take a look at the valve adjuster. Is it parallel with the valve stem? If not, you may need to add a shim or two. Just remember though, adding shims will make the closed spring have a different reading so you will have to start over again. This does work IMO. After you get the adjuster parallel with the stem, check the other valves on the same head. Note, the intake and exhaust valves will not be the same but they will be close. I started on the intake and made sure both were parallel on the same head.