first paint job

Pete65 · Post by **Pete65** » Fri Jun 20, 2003 9:13 am

trying to plan out the painting of the ghia... I have a pretty nice crafstman spray gun and enough of a compressor to power it so I figure I'll try my hand at some painting. In preping the car the plan is to take it down to a green paint layer and start there (on top of the green is a bunch of plastic that was applied badly and is cracking now). I know everyone is always talking about taking it down to bare metal and doing it "right" but for this body, at this time, we just don't think it's worth it. So we're going to take it down to this green layer and try to hammer out any major dents then hit any of the bare metal with a sandable primer / body filler if needed and smooth out the whole car. After that I can just lay the paint down, right?? The main concern is to get primer on any bare metal and give the car a respectable appearance. Since I'm not going all out on the prep work I don't want to spend a lot on paint, I'm looking for something that's pretty easy to work with and will look decent if done properly. Is there a site that related to painting that I might be able to find various colors and get some info on the process? I appreciate all your help.

also, where can I purchase this type of paint?

JC-ATL · Post by **JC-ATL** » Fri Jun 20, 2003 9:48 am

Prime not only the bare steel, but the whole car. Then shoot it.

Run to the bookstore and grab "How to Paint your Car." Good beginner's reference, will at least give you enough knowledge to be dangerous.

Pete65 · Post by **Pete65** » Fri Jun 20, 2003 10:24 am

so painting over the exisiting paint won't work?? what brands and types of primer / paint are good for an OK job?

deac · Post by **deac** » Fri Jun 20, 2003 11:13 am

I'd primer the whole thing, especially if the green paint is a respray. You want to have a uniform finish when you apply your color coat. This will both give you a consistent color and provide consistent adhesion. Otherwise, to color coat may react differently to the green paint than it does to the primer.

I'm by no means an expert, but this was the advice I was given before I did my first paint job (which isn't quite finished yet). There were spots where I went through my primer/surfacer to the original paint. I was told I would need to re-prime it, but I went ahead and color painted over them. I put enough paint on that you can't see a difference, but I imagine time will tell whether or not I made a mistake.

Good luck, and don't breathe the fumes!

deac

deac · Post by **deac** » Fri Jun 20, 2003 11:20 am

Oh yeah, forgot to add...

I used DuPont's Nason Single Stage Urethane, and was pleased with the results, although I had nothing to compare since I had never sprayed a urethane. I just didn't want to break the bank on $$$ paint just cause I knew it would only be as good as I can shoot it. I've sprayed acrylic enamel as well, and the urethane was much easier to spray. It'll last longer too.

Alot of people say that PPGs Omni line is a good "budget" paint, comparable to nasons, but I've never used it.

deac

Pete65 · Post by **Pete65** » Fri Jun 20, 2003 11:37 am

hey deac, thanks a lot for the info.. it'll help a lot. where did you buy your paint??

deac · Post by **deac** » Fri Jun 20, 2003 12:01 pm

There's a DuPont auto paint store close to where i work, so I was lucky. I could run over there at lunch and pick their brains for a while when I needed guidance. They were definitely the most helpful source of information, 'cause they could give me tips specific to the paint I was using.

Also, try

www.autobodystore.com
www.paintucation.com
www.autorestorer.com

these were all helpful to me.

-deac

little ld · Post by **little ld** » Fri Jun 20, 2003 1:01 pm

It will be very tough to take just a layer or two off. And if you dont get them even it will like a blind man worked on it. There will be a ridge where the paint stops and the other starts. It is doable but you will spend alot of time on it. You will find out when you start that it will be just as easy to take it all the way down than just to take a few off. But if you do take a layer off and paint it, just keep in mind that if you get to many mills of paint on it it will look like it does now in no time. It will bust all up like it is now, if you get it to thick. If there is alot on there already not only do you have to worry about it cracking but it will be wavey. Like your bodywork is not straight or something. That is very tough to get to look good or even acceptable.

Pete65 · Post by **Pete65** » Fri Jun 20, 2003 6:55 pm

here's the thing. I thought that it would be hard too, but when we started sanding it went down to this green layer very easily and then it kinda just stays there with more sanding. Maybe it's very thick?? or there's some sort of coating on top of it??

My main question is this.. there are a few spots that it was brought down to bare metal in order to bang out some dents. Now that the body work is getting straightened out, when you slide your hand over the surface you can feel the layer difference between the green paint and no paint. My plan was to spray these small spots with a primer and then sand them and reapply until it gave a flush feeling. If i spray the entire car with primer it will keep the same bubbly effect, it doesn't seem deep enough to warrant bondo or filler (it's just the difference between a layer or two of paint and bare metal) what should I do about this??

Also, I was reading that if you want to paint your car you need a pretty decent sized air compressor. Mine will put out 6.5 SCFM @ 90psi, is this good enough to do a decent job, or will I have to break it into smaller sections?? A site I was at was saying you need to be pushing something like 20SCFM @ 90 (bare minimum) I don't have those kind of bills...

thanks

doc · Post by **doc** » Sat Jun 21, 2003 4:51 pm

If just the difference of a paint layer, spray with a primer/filler and build up pretty good. You should be able to put on enough primer/filler to compensate for a paint layer or two - might take more than one coat of primer/filler. Spray a little, wait, spray a little, wait, etc.

Then spray a "guide coat" on the area - just a light sputtering of contrast color paint from a spray can. Wrap some 400 grit sandpaper around a paint stick and "stick sand" the area. The paint stick sanding technique will keep you honest regarding flatness. When you can't see the guide coat anymore, the low spots are gone!

I use a smaller compressor and you're going to listen to your compressor run a lot, but it's doable.

The painting part is easy. Take most of your time on the primer/filler and stick sanding getting it flat and smooth. ANY flaw in the prep stage will show in the paint. Sounds like your green layer is on pretty solid. Feather the edges to smooth and you should be ok. Good luck.

Pete65 · Post by **Pete65** » Sat Jun 21, 2003 7:17 pm

doc, you're the man.. thanks a lot. i'll be updating my site soon with some pics of the body and such.

Pete65 · Post by **Pete65** » Tue Jun 24, 2003 6:50 am

this is what the hood looks like right now, after sanding and some minor body working. The yellow spots and bare metal were dents and dings.

what type of primer should i use?

little ld · Post by **little ld** » Tue Jun 24, 2003 1:21 pm

on the bare metal use an etching primer. It will restore the rust protection. Then you can yse an epoxy or a urathane primer over the etching primer.

hillbilly · Post by **hillbilly** » Tue Jun 24, 2003 8:35 pm

By the looks of things what you have there is original paint...... .nice green

underneath is original primer and that is a good thing if I were you I would keep as much of that as possible .The edge you are feeling is a result of poor feathering try sanding the edges more until you see a band at least a quarter of an inch wide ,the wider the better. I would get myself a 2X4 rubber block instead of a stick(great idea though) basicly your car is not flat it is round Pick one up at a local paint suppy place . Every body man slash preper painter has one.prime and guide coat your whole car and block it down.Keep in mind when doing so that the object is to get the primmer to the same level as the deepest imperfection shown in the guide coat remainig .don't sand one area till its gone thinking you are doing well remove the primmer around the whole area moving your block across the surface in difrent directions the guide coated area is allready low,hope this helps out.I have been in the auto collision repair industry for over 30 years have done my share of what your about to do.....have fun.It will be a thing of beauty and a pleasure to drive. One more thing when trying to determin highs and lows be sure to press your whole hand( palm and fingers) lightly at least 10 inches beyond what your fixing (it gives you a felling of what is right) also if you are still unsure .close your eyes.......really it works learned that trick years ago. Kinda like your eyes want it to be straight or something weird like that.

have a good one Pete.

Pete65 · Post by **Pete65** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 8:25 am

hey, thanks a lot.. I appreciate all the replies and good info. I'm hoping to start into that project soon. On a side note, any of you going to the Punch Bug show at ATCO this Sunday? I'll be there just to watch and shop maybe I'll see some of you around.. thanks again

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first paint job

first paint job

Layers?