Principles of Oxyboxer engineering

[Dyno Soar]

I have been reading through Morten’s excellent Oxyboxer website and have a few questions with some regard to the engine build up.

How do you get round the fact that the windows in the case of the T5 are actually bigger then the 94mm t1 pistons?

Morten’s website mentions that the cylinders have been turned down. What does this mean and what is the process involve? Can any machine shop do this?

If the T5 case that is being used has suffered from the dreaded head stud problems like they are pulling out then will this effect installing the T1 style studs?

Morten mentions that a sandwich block is used to add an oil cooler. Where is this sandwich block bolted?

Will any machine shop be able drill the holes needed for the T1 head studs or do the eccentric bolts Morten mentions simply slip into the existing T5 stud holes?

Thanks for any advice I know most of your guys are well ahead of the game of engine building, but any advice would be appreciated. I am thinking of collecting parts together to build a Oxyboxer for my bug and then step up to an all out motor for my 914.

I have been thinking about the costs related to building a hipo T1 for my Bug and a hot 2.0 for my Porsche and the Oxyboxer seems to be the best of bothworlds and most bang for my bucks.. well pounds £ anyway.

[Type 5 Joe]

I can do the machining if you want to ship to the U.S. - and your serious...

This is not a project for the budget-builder, or the first-timer.

- Joe

[Dyno Soar]

Thanks for the information.

Well this really does seem a bit beyond my skills.

1 I am a first time builder and 2 I was hoping for a slightly cheaper alternative. I guess this does count me out of Oxyboxer league for now.

Still a peppy wasserboxer 2.1 in my 914 would be an option and a good used wasser 2.1 crank in my Bug would also be cost effective. may possibly go for a wasser inthe Bug aswell.

[Pillow]

Lots of good questions!

>windows in the case of the T5 are actually bigger then the 94mm t1 pistons?<

The case is wider. When the T1 cylinders are machined they are cut for a T5 hole and fit right in. It probably is not that hard to do with a lathe, but in the states only a few people have the knowledge to exclusively do T5 cylinders.

I am not aware of any T5 head stud pulling. This is probably a T1 mag case only issue.

The sandwitch block is a way to run an external oil lines from an adapter plate run from the oil filter mount. Easy. But he uses Banjo fittings which are a no-no, I would advise using straight AN fittings.

As for the stud holes it is pretty complicated although the webpage makes it look easy. first you need to offset drill the stock stud holes out to 14x1.5mm and then make the offset eccentric bolts. The eccentic bolts are easy, the 14x1.5 cut is the tough one to get it lined up right.

As for the oil lines I would (and am) just go full flow like a T1 and forget about a restrictive sandwitch plate.

Hope this helps.







------------------
Adrian Pillow
'66 VW Westfalia
'79 Porsche 911 SC - FS
VolkSport Kafer Gruppe

[fastoldvw]

Hey DynoSoar,

VWMorten has a block/crank and a cyl set all made ready for assembly for sale, you just have to pick a cam and some heads, and your'e nearly there. http://www.gearheads.dk/nuke/modules.ph ... pic&t=2769
This link shows (amongst other stuff) some pictures of the block for sale.
Email me, and i'll give you his mail/phone no.
Rune, Jægerspris, Denmark

P.S. I'm just now assembling my own oxy, and it's a piece of cake(-:

[51MAN]

I think the ref about the "stud problem"was to the fact that early cases were machined tighter... the head stud break off and are an absolute pig to remove from the case as they are so tight!! later cases dont have such an issue...
Also "early" main bearing availability is a problem here in Euroland..
Si

[Dyno Soar]

I have sent you a mail Rune.