bullet proof 1600SP

rozbug · Post by **rozbug** » Fri Jan 03, 2003 4:08 pm

I almost finished building my "all out" 1915 when I realized that it was not going to suit my needs (I got engaged ). So I am building a bulletproof 1600SP that I hope will last atleast 60k-75k miles. How does this sound?:

New ALuminum Case
DMS CW crank 10/10
balanced rods
lightened fly
german lifters / bearings
SP heads w/ HD springs
7.5:1 CR
stock rockers w/ steel p-rods
MSD 6AL
1.5 merged header
Berg full flow/sump
stock cam

I have everything, but the case.
Any suggestions? thank- Brian

jasonb · Post by **jasonb** » Fri Jan 03, 2003 4:38 pm

You should at least run dual Weber ICT's. Unless the whole point is to avoid spending more money.

James2 · Post by **James2** » Fri Jan 03, 2003 6:34 pm

Nope, keep it like that. I would run a either a good used case or a as-41. i just don't trust the quality control on the AL cases.

Post by **sparkmaster1** » Fri Jan 03, 2003 9:03 pm

A bullet proof 1600 SP is all stock with original tin and carb, etc. It will last you 65K do a valve grind, go another 60k do a complete rebuild. Tim

James2 · Post by **James2** » Fri Jan 03, 2003 9:06 pm

Just curious as to why you think this motor won't last as long as a stocker????

Is the CCW crank going to cause more wear??? No, should last longer

The case?? well, if it's amchined right it won't.

The header? Will cause no extra wear.

The rods????? should last longer

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by sparkmaster1:
A bullet proof 1600 SP is all stock with original tin and carb, etc. It will last you 65K do a valve grind, go another 60k do a complete rebuild. Tim <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Searoy · Post by **Searoy** » Fri Jan 03, 2003 9:12 pm

If you've already got everything, then go with it, but use a mag case. The 1 1/2" exhaust is way too big.

If you can splurge for it, get a split duration cam. The single port can use the extra intake breathing.

Also splurge for a great valve jobs and maybe even a little port work, but not much.

I agree to run ICTs.

------------------
*** Teach a Man to Fish ***
Darth Searoy

"I tend to lean toward a tighter gap and a
looser skirt....a little slap never hurt." --
Joe Locicero a.k.a. Joe of the West

rozbug · Post by **rozbug** » Fri Jan 03, 2003 10:46 pm

Thanks for all the input. I was thinking the Alum case would be better than the "used case crap shoot" when you buy a used one and hope it will last. I have everything, except the case. I could sell it all and do something different though.

My .060" over case lasted 25,000 which I hear is good. I would consider a used Mag if it was @ .020". I am really tired of building stock engines that don't last more than 30,000 due to old cases. The .060-.080 line-bored cases just don't last, and thats all the j- yard has.

I am on the verge of buying a VW Golf or GTI, just so I can drive to San Diego and do the speed limit and not worry. I love my 67 bug, don't get me wrong. I'm not sure what I'll do, yet. The bug needs to run though.

Post by **sparkmaster1** » Fri Jan 03, 2003 10:47 pm

I don't think the heavy springs are neccesary as they will add more wear to the cam, lifters and valve guides. The steelpushrods won't keep the adjustment properly and will beat out the tops of the valve stems. 1 1/2 ex will rob the sp torque and the light fly will also kill the torque of a sp. A CW crank isn't needed for the rpm that a sp turns. I'd save those parts or sell them on e-hell to fund a big motor. Just my opinion. I think Single port bug motors are the best for daily drivers that last a long time with great mpg. Tim

James2 · Post by **James2** » Sat Jan 04, 2003 8:52 am

No, Keep it the way you planned. This is going to buy you a couple of years. You can upgrade the carbs and heads later when you get more money.

If you buy a new case, then you can use it, your main bearings and crank for the 1915 if you upgrade the displacemnt later.

If I understand you, this is just a stop gap motor to get you running. Why buy anything you can't use on a later bigger motor?

Also, why sell anything you need for the later motor?

You got it right, only thing I worry about is the quality of the AL case, I would get a new mag case, or if I bought a AL case, i would get it from aircooled.net and pay the extra for a blueprinted case.

The header is a little big, but it's not going to kill the motor. I would run stock springs if you have them.

If you keep trying to do the little upgrades, it starts snowballing and your back to building the 1915 again.

Just get a good case and build it.

Post by **Marc** » Sat Jan 04, 2003 9:27 am

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by James2:
 Why buy anything you can't use on a later bigger motor?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I guess it depends upon how soon you'll be getting around to building the bigger, badder engine, and whether you plan to cannibalize this one to build it or want to keep this one together. Personally I don't see any point in putting miles on parts in an application where they aren't called for, just so they can be half-worn-out when it's time to put them into an engine that needs them....

Like Tim says, you don't need any of these "trick" pieces to get many, many miles out of a singleport. Build it on a large-passage (dual-relief) case; use a doghouse fanhousing and oil cooler if you want - but the other parts are absolutely not needed.

James2 · Post by **James2** » Sat Jan 04, 2003 7:21 pm

I guess I'm just thinking of myself, having never worn out a motor. I usually build it, tune it, and then start modifying for more power.

rozbug · Post by **rozbug** » Sat Jan 04, 2003 8:30 pm

Heres my new plan

New AL case
Stock crank (std/std)
stock fly
SP heads
HD springs (I cruise the freeway around 3600-3900rpm)
stock cam
7.5:1 stupid 009
balanced rods/pistons
stock clutch
german lifters
Berg Full flow/1.5 sump
(96plate mesa w/ fan for the summer)

I will be able to make/save quite a bit by selling my new DMS crank and 11# fly, plus all the other stuff I won't be using. I hope this setup will last for more than 30,000 miles. Thanks for all the input- Brian

Post by **sparkmaster1** » Sat Jan 04, 2003 9:16 pm

Stock springs on a stock cam should be good to 5000 more or less. Bigger cams tend to "slap" at the lifters and that adds to needing more spring pressure to keep them from floating. Sounds like a good long life combo. If you want a real runner put on a set of 1300 heads. More torque and mpg. What kind of rocker adjusters are you going to use? Tim

rozbug · Post by **rozbug** » Sun Jan 05, 2003 2:18 am

I have some Berg soild shaft rockers(stock arms)with swivel feet, but I might just use stock w/ swivels.
I never heard of using 1300 (40hp?) heads on a 1600. It's funny, because I do have a couple sets. They have 32mm intake and 30mm exh. I'd have to get them bored out and use the 40hp intake. Finding replacement exh valves would be fun too.

Is that a legitimate way to run a 1600? Sounds interesting. I want to find out more.... what carb would I use?....

[This message has been edited by rozbug (edited 01-05-2003).]

Gareth · Post by **Gareth** » Sun Jan 05, 2003 6:20 am

I'd keep the couter weighted crank personally....of course I also broke a dual valve spring on one of my singlepoerts at abot 7000 rpm....springs were old though...nothing too unusual. Anyone who says singleports can't make power or RPM's didn't pay much attention to racing in the late 60's...I'm not saying that a dual port won't make more mind you...just that a ported polished set of SP heads on a well set up engine can make some decent torque and run very reliabely...I suppose I should throw away my Deano ported SP heads cut for 90.5's too....lol

...Gareth