Heads, valves, springs, cams?????

Pepper · Post by **Pepper** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 1:17 pm

Ok here we go
I was talking to Scott recently and he said I needed to post in this forum.

I plane on buying a 1776 rebuild kit from scat. I need some ideas on what kind of
heads
Cams
Valves/springs I should get?

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 1:23 pm

Depends... What do you plan on doing with the engine?

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Adrian Pillow
'66 VW Westfalia - "Biscuit"
'67 VW Deluxe Westfakia - "Dino" - FS
'79 Porsche 911 SC - "Cochese" - FS

Post by **Marc** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 1:25 pm

Are you keeping stock heater boxes or going to a merged competition-style exhaust, say 1 5/8" diameter? Because if you're keeping heaterboxes, bigvalve heads are a waste of money IMO. How are you going to use this thing? A 1775 can be anything from a stock-cam & carb low-end torquer to a 7500RPM screamer. More data required....

Pepper · Post by **Pepper** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 1:31 pm

?Before you can make an intelligent cam selection you need to know what RPM range you'll be using. Valve size/head porting? Carbs/exhaust system? Gearing/tire size/car weight? Intended use/desired cruising MPH? etc.etc.etc.
You can find a lot of info around here that should help you to build your engine a la carte and have it turn out better and possibly cheaper than using a Scat kit. Lots and lots of folks with successful 1775s and 1915s in the building....?

Ok I?m not a hot rodder, but I like to drive! I don?t fart around when I get behind the wheel; some peeps are in lala land when they are in any thing that moves! I live in West Texas, so its hot and far away from everything else. I don?t know the RPM range, gearing or weight of the car. It?s a 74 super I want to put duel carbs on it. My cruising speed would be 70+, I I?m looking for a daily driver that drives goooood!

hhmm 6000 RPMs maybe
and no heater tubes

James2 · Post by **James2** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 1:47 pm

It does not matter, because the cam and lifters will be trash in 3k anyways.

Go to cal-look.com and read the post about the guy who lost a motor due to scat lifters.

do a search here on scat lifters.

Post by **Marc** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 2:14 pm

So in English I'll assume that means you're primarily interested in sustained high-speed operation more than you are in quarter-mile acceleration. With stock gearing and tire size that car will go ~95MPH at 5000RPM if it has the power to pull the gear, and 75 at ~3900RPM. Coincidentally, 5000RPM is a pretty realistic shift point for ported stock-valve heads on a 1775 (it'd rev higher but HP would fall off, so 95 would also be your top speed).
Now, how much carburetion can you afford? $300? $400 $650? -if you won't be spending more than ~$400 for (new) carbs, You shouldn't need big-valve heads either.
Bear with me, I'm trying to narrow this down to 2 or 3 choices if I can...
Will you always always always run 91 octane or better gasoline, or are you like so many others who'll try a tank full of Regular someday and when nothing explodes right away, they figure it's OK to save money on gas from then on? This is a primary factor in determining what compression ratio you should build the motor at, which affects the cam selection.
Do you have any aspirations to change your gearing someday to make it easier to spank the riceboys in acceleration contests, which'd change the RPM you'd be turning on the highway? I'm assuming "no" since you said you aren't a hot-rodder, correct me if those words mean something else to you.

Pepper · Post by **Pepper** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 2:18 pm

"So in English"?

Post by **Marc** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 2:21 pm

Yes, it's my mother tongue.

"I like to drive! I don?t fart around when I get behind the wheel; some peeps are in lala land when they are in any thing that moves!"

Really doesn't tell us much about how you'll drive, sorry. Did I interpret it correctly or not?

sinikl · Post by **sinikl** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 2:34 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by James2:
It does not matter, because the cam and lifters will be trash in 3k anyways.

Go to cal-look.com and read the post about the guy who lost a motor due to scat lifters.

do a search here on scat lifters.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

if y'r talkin about the post from the guy today, he said the lifters were unlabeled in a ziploc baggie from the local shop. so that doesn't prove anything about scat. there was a foto a while back on the clf of some ok-lookin scat lifters with 10k miles on it.

one post isn't gonna prove or disprove anything, but i will say james2 seems to be right that judging from the clf quality control seems to vary wildly with the scat lifters. find a shop that stands behind their product (like the guy on the clf with the ziploc lifters.... the shop bought him a new cam, lifters, etc to make it up to him).

sean

Pepper · Post by **Pepper** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 2:36 pm

I?m not really looking to spank any ricers, I want a car that is fun to drive and that can do 90 without sounding like it will explode! Yes I plan putting a different transmission in it.

Hmmm fart around, how about ?lolly gag? lol. In your ?mother tongue? what kind of colorful slang do you use for Lala Land: also meaning mindless, blank minded, silly, or a small flightless bird. And what would be a comparable substitute for
Farting around: fool around, fart out loud, being silly, South African toad.

lol JJ

Post by **Marc** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 2:43 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Pepper:
Yes I plan putting a different transmission in it.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

For what purpose? Quicker acceleration or lower RPM at highway speeds? The latter isn't a good idea to take too far, you WANT the engine to be turning 3000 on the highway. If this bothers you go get a waterpumper.

Pepper · Post by **Pepper** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 2:46 pm

Well I need a new one anyways, so when the time comes I'll start asking Q aboutmy options.

fredybear · Post by **fredybear** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 2:53 pm

poor guy.....ull get to confused on here like i did....than i figured it out myself....than keep asking question....itll flow....

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Fredy-
55 bug-
63 bug-
67-bug sunroof
68-bug

Post by **Marc** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 3:19 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Pepper:
Well I need a new one anyways, so when the time comes I'll start asking Q aboutmy options.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Whew. Getting really tiring trying to get any straight info out of you. The point is that if you change gearing it will affect your engine selections to some degree, and once the engine is built it will affect what your trans "options" are.
One more time, are you more interested in high-speed travel or around-town acceleration?

Searoy · Post by **Searoy** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 3:34 pm

Marc is right. "It depends" is the best answer we can give unless you want a totally opinionated, biased, and universla answer like the guys at the local speed-shops will give you.

I for one would start off by telling you not to go smaller than 1914.

The pistons cost the same. The machine work costs the same. Why go smaller? Ture the P&C will need to be changed a little sooner, but they're pretty cheap really, and it's not hard work. How's 50,000 miles sound? That's about 4 years of driving for me, all freeway and a couple of trips to the strip each month.

The second thing I'll tell you is that about a month after you get your new powerplant a jerk in a Honda will piss you off and you'll wish you had opted for the extra 150cc.

That said...now for my opinion.

-1914 94x69
-Stage 5 heads from AJ Simms (or 7s!), 044 or 040, either way, but considering the use, I'd go 044s.
-44 IDFs on match ported manifolds.
-Webcam 86B with 1.4:1 or 1.5:1 rockers
-Webcam lifters and break the damn thing in properly.
-1 1/2" exhaust with the 2 1/2" Phat Boy muffler.
-Mallory vacuum distributor and Hy-Fire box.

Run a tight .040" deck. Depending on head ccs you'll be running between 8.7 and 9:1 compression, which is great for the 86B cam.

Stay away from the power-pulleys, make sure your cooling tin is ORIGINAL VW, is clean and sealed up good.

Here's a little trick I thought about for emergencies (it's not intended to be used under normal conditions, just to save the engine from disaster). Using a paintball 20 oz CO2 tank you could configure a small (small) jet of CO2 to inject into the airstream of the fan shroud. That'll reduce the air temp going over your cylidners and heads by a quite a bit, depending on how big the jet is. It should be enough to get you off the road or close to a place where you can cool it down and water yourself.

Like I said I just thought of it, and I'm sure it's fraught with problems I just can't see yet.

Properly done even a hot-rod 1914 shouldn't need it, except when it reaches 112 in West Texas.

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*** Teach a Man to Fish ***
Darth Searoy

"I tend to lean toward a tighter gap and a
looser skirt....a little slap never hurt." --
Joe Locicero a.k.a. Joe of the West