stroking an engine

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Sat Dec 01, 2001 7:28 pm

The power is in the combo!

I love stroking an engine, both TI and TIV. My favorite stroke for street cars is a 78 for both types of engines. Almost any cam will fit without reducing the base circle(which leads to lifter bore wear) and the stroke keeps a nasty fast rev, without pulling like a V8.

I just dynoed a standard 2007 of mine for a customer, pumped out 126HP @5500 RPM and about 140 lb/ft of torque at 4,500 RPM. This was through dual Muffs and running 44 IDFs with 40 x 35 valves...

And IT DID NOT HAVE SEMI HEMI HEADS for those who may wonder....It did like a 135 main jet with those 36mm vents, the fuwl flowrator and A/F ratio gauge do not lie..

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Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com

Ugly Man Dinner · Post by **Ugly Man Dinner** » Wed Dec 19, 2001 9:13 pm

people it only costs a little extra do stroke an engine...what all do you need to stroke an engine? dont you need alot of new parts to do so? i heard that with an 82 crank you can use stock rods and they worrk well together...???

Searoy · Post by **Searoy** » Wed Dec 19, 2001 10:00 pm

I wouldn't use stock rods on anything bigger than 78. That doesn't mean you can't use stock LENGTH rods, just not stock rods.

What you need to stroke it depends on how far you stroke it. Cost also depends on quality and application. Do you want a welded 84mm stroker on a 8000 RPM nitrous monster? No. Do you need a flanged forged 74mm on your daily driver? Probably not.

You say it doesn't cost much more to stroke it. Let's see. Besides the regular cost of bearings and seals and those things you would normaly need in a rebuild, there's the cost of the crank itself. $250-$1500. Then there's the cost or rods. Rebuilt for $60, I-Beam for $160, H-Beam for $300. Add $200 for the big bore pistons you would use anyway, so that doesn't REALLY count. So, at least $300 to stroke an engine, more if you get serious.

Then there's clearancing. You can pay for clearancing so the stock rods will work, or you can pay the extra dime and upgrade to I-Beam rods, which are lighter and stronger than stock anyway, and don't require cleearancing on 78mm and shorter strokes (depending on bore).

MY WAY? 78mm stroke with I-Beam rods, and the probably unecessary reduced radius cam. Bore for 94s and your clearance worries are done. 2165 served up hot and fresh.

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*** Teach a Man to Fish ***
Searoy

"I tend to lean toward a tighter gap and a
looser skirt....a little slap never hurt." -- Joe of the West

Eaallred · Post by **Eaallred** » Wed Dec 19, 2001 10:13 pm

I wouldn't waste my time with a 78mm stroker.
If you didn't spring to have the extra clearancing done now, you'd regret it later.
You'll never hear someone going "Boy, I wish I didn't have so much power", but you always hear someone trying to get more power out of thier engine.

Go big, or go home.

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Eric
64 Bug

Searoy · Post by **Searoy** » Wed Dec 19, 2001 10:21 pm

So, how's that 2840 working out for you, Eric? Oh wait, you haven't gone big yet...

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*** Teach a Man to Fish ***
Searoy

"I tend to lean toward a tighter gap and a
looser skirt....a little slap never hurt." -- Joe of the West

Ugly Man Dinner · Post by **Ugly Man Dinner** » Wed Dec 19, 2001 10:24 pm

oops...i made a typo i didnt mean to say, "people, it costs a little to stroke an engine" i meant "people SAY it costs a little to stroke an engine...sorry..

evil_vw · Post by **evil_vw** » Wed Dec 19, 2001 10:33 pm

i choose to give my response in mathmatical form----- stock 1600dp = 56bhp, + 90.5mm pistons + 82mm forged crank + 48idf + several variants of performance additions = 2110cc, = approx. w/ given variables 140bhp, - 48idf + 750 holley w/ turbonetics t04 + rhinosuperdiffs.a.w.sb 1st weddle3.88 + cam change + 6pt roll cage @58 KG = 310bhp. get it?? TURBO-- the only way to fly. (really fast, anyway.)

Searoy · Post by **Searoy** » Wed Dec 19, 2001 10:58 pm

I have to agree with the evil one. Boost is cheaper than displacement, and it makes just as much power. Now, if you combine displacement AND boost, you've got real trouble on your hands. Oh how I wish I had a little more trouble.

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*** Teach a Man to Fish ***
Searoy

"I tend to lean toward a tighter gap and a
looser skirt....a little slap never hurt." -- Joe of the West

JohnConnolly · Post by **JohnConnolly** » Wed Dec 19, 2001 11:09 pm

I talk to a LOT of my customers about their engines, and their decisions.

After 6 mos, out of 100 guys, 80 of them say they wish they had built MORE ENGINE (heads, displacement, etc). 18 of them say they are very happy with what they have, and 2 say they have "too much".

FWIW.

I always try to get guys to buy BIG HEADS. There's nothing worse than spending $800 for 42 X 37.5s, and then figuring out in 2 mos you should have paid the extra $400 for more headwork, which now costs you $800 or more.

John
Aircooled.Net Inc.

Eaallred · Post by **Eaallred** » Wed Dec 19, 2001 11:43 pm

Searoy,
My point is, if you're going to stroke it, STROKE it. The cost is almost the same.
If I can have bigger, for just a little more money than big, why would I just go for big?

Never had a problem with you before, Searoy, but I sense a bit of friction with that post. E-mail me if you have a guff with me. You have my addy.

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Eric
64 Bug

Steve Arndt · Post by **Steve Arndt** » Thu Dec 20, 2001 9:12 am

I think your count is skewed John. I'm not one of your two, but I do have too much power. I'm also looking for MORE!!!!!!!!! haha!
steve

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by JohnConnolly:
I talk to a LOT of my customers about their engines, and their decisions.

After 6 mos, out of 100 guys, 80 of them say they wish they had built MORE ENGINE (heads, displacement, etc). 18 of them say they are very happy with what they have, and 2 say they have "too much".

FWIW.

I always try to get guys to buy BIG HEADS. There's nothing worse than spending $800 for 42 X 37.5s, and then figuring out in 2 mos you should have paid the extra $400 for more headwork, which now costs you $800 or more.

John
Aircooled.Net Inc.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

JohnConnolly · Post by **JohnConnolly** » Thu Dec 20, 2001 12:27 pm

would you downgrade if you had the chance?

John

Steve Arndt · Post by **Steve Arndt** » Thu Dec 20, 2001 2:09 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by JohnConnolly:
would you downgrade if you had the chance?
John
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

No.
I'm going to keep making it faster until I get arrested or run 12s on baja bug tires!!!!!!

Eaallred · Post by **Eaallred** » Thu Dec 20, 2001 8:20 pm

I'm not sure they'll ever be fast enough.
Until you soil the seats on a WOT pass.

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Eric
64 Bug

James2 · Post by **James2** » Thu Dec 20, 2001 9:00 pm

The way I'm thinking. I decided to build a 1915 instead of a stroker.

Why, well if your on a limited budget like me, I figure the money is better spent on better heads. The difference between $400 heads and $1000 heads is about 50 or more hp. You'll never get that kinda of gain with a stroker crank.

After reading the specs of all the really fast cars, I found one thing in common-BIG, well flowing heads. Cams, carbs and other detail vary. Big carbs big cams and big strokers do NOT make fast cars unless paired with big heads.

If your on a budget, look at AJ Sims heads. I've seen them up close and they are a really nice for the price.

[This message has been edited by James2 (edited 12-20-2001).]