Cooling flaps

lowpro1984 · Post by **lowpro1984** » Tue Jan 29, 2002 11:11 pm

Hi everyone I was looking at my engine and I saw that there is a rod runing from the left of my engine to the right of it and I think it works the cooling flaps in the tin. It looks like there is suppose be a cable hooked to it and there isent one. Can someone help me out.

Thank You,
Chris.

rich2481 · Post by **rich2481** » Wed Jan 30, 2002 7:16 am

I have a 81 and there is a bellows mounted on the block under the number one cylinder, I live in Tucson so i removed the flappers because of the heat here, I dont worry about the engine warming up, I worry about over heating, you should be able to get the cable or bar from a VW autoparts place or from Bus-boys.com

Good luck, If you need a bellows and cant find one I will send you mine for cost of shipping

lowpro1984 · Post by **lowpro1984** » Thu Jan 31, 2002 1:00 pm

I think im going to keep the cable off so the flaps are always open because I live in socal and it gets hot some times. Maybe the last owner took off the cable for the same reason?

Thank you guys,
Chris.

ray greenwood · Post by **ray greenwood** » Thu Jan 31, 2002 4:44 pm

I would leave it on. Unless you live in Tucson or phoenix, where the ambient temp could actually open the flaps somewhat, you will definately be cutting life out of the engine. We have a tendency to think that just cause its warm outside, that the engine doesn't have a warm-up period. It does, the 185+ degree oil temp and 325 head temp ranges are normal operating temp. The slower you get there ,the more blow by, less ring seating...and the more wear and gunk. The bellows for the flaps are actually pretty well calibrated for good operation. In 100 degree heat they will open in about 3 min. They take about 8-10 in cold weather and about 5 at 80 degrees ambient. Faster warm-up time is very good for the engine and there is no risk to leaving them hooked up. Ray

lowpro1984 · Post by **lowpro1984** » Thu Jan 31, 2002 7:47 pm

Hi ray I have been looking and looking for somthing that the cable could be hooked up to but I cant find anything. Can you tell me where I should be looking.

Thank You,
Chris.

rich2481 · Post by **rich2481** » Thu Jan 31, 2002 8:07 pm

Ray, I live in Tucson and regular hits 115 during the summer, I was given this bus and I had alot to figure out before finding this forum, and I couldnt trust what the guy had done before me, therefore I removed it, plus it only had one flap anyhow and no cable. I havent found a picture of it in the Haynes or the Idiot book I was given, as you could tell from the picture of the vacuum lines, I rebuilt the engine, and have plugged along from there, have had shifter problems have emmission problems which i hope go away as the rings set, my emmission machine says it is close so I will run it somewhat this weekend

maybe someday if I keep this I will find all the parts for it.

[This message has been edited by rich2481 (edited 02-01-2002).]

ray greenwood · Post by **ray greenwood** » Thu Jan 31, 2002 11:21 pm

Rich, if the flaps are correctly installed, there is no chance of the engine overheating becasue of this. If the cable breaks, it goes to full cooling on the cylinders. The cable holds the flaps CLOSED when cold. Also there is always some bypass to the oil cooler so that is not a worry either. What happens in most cases, even when people properly install the cable and adjust it, is that they get the little "C" shaped link to the left side flap installed in the wrong direction. It allows the flap to operate backwards. That is like your knee suddenly operating to the rear when you flex it. The way to adjust is to be careful to check the clips when you have it out for proper holding ability (tension). Do not remove your flaps!!! I drove my 412 for most of a summer in and out of El-paso for most of the summer two years ago. El-paso has been per capita for summer days an average of 5 degrees hotter than Phoenix for the past 3 years. It was regularly 115 degrees when I was there ....no problems. Ray

rich2481 · Post by **rich2481** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 10:31 am

My dad just got back from CA. and found a Haynes book 1972 thru 1979 Transporter, looking through it, it shows a pretty good picture of the cable and the bellows, I think it also shows a little pulley the cable goes around. I believe my bus to be a 81' it was given to me so I am learning this bus stuff after 25 years of bug stuff. I scanned it and it came out okay but only shows the underneath. let me know if you want it I will send it email

lowpro1984 · Post by **lowpro1984** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 2:42 pm

Yea I would like the scan rich my email is [email protected]

Thank You,
Chris.

rich2481 · Post by **rich2481** » Mon Feb 04, 2002 7:21 am

Okay give me a couple of days and I will send it, it is a bottom view and I hope it will help

lowpro1984 · Post by **lowpro1984** » Mon Feb 04, 2002 10:34 am

Hey man thanx alot for all the help.

Thank You,
Chris.

ray greenwood · Post by **ray greenwood** » Tue Feb 05, 2002 7:42 am

The cable hooks to: On the bottom end, it goes through a hole in the end of a tube nut that screws onto the bellows. The cable has a crimped on metal piece at the end that will not allow it to pass through the hole. It goes around a pulley with a 10mm nut that is bolted to the sump. Up through a provided hole in the sheet metal. It clamps to an arm with a simple square flat washer and 7mm machine screw. The flap arm is spring loaded right next to where the cable comes out. To set it, wait till the car is cold, grip the cable with a pair of vice grips so you can hold it....over next to the distributor...you will find an area on the rod...that has a "cranked" spot in it. Attach a second pair of vice grips...lightly...here, so you can rotate it towrad the flywheel. It sho go about 1/4 turn. Tie the vice grips in place so the flaps stay loaded closed. Feed the cable between the arm and the flat square washer and tighten with a 7mm wrench. This loads the flaps against the spring...closed. So when the bellows heats up...and expands...the spring allows the flaps to open all the way. After warming up well, make sure the flap arm is vertical. If not, loosen it, and let it rotate until it is vertical, then retighten. When it cools again, make sure it is at least 3/4 closed...or else get a new bellows. Make sure the little nylon bushing is still there on the rod, on the side where the distributor is. Also make sure the little square piece of sheet metal is covering the spring on the right, or else the spring may slip off its perch. These flaps work very well when properly installed. Ray

ray greenwood · Post by **ray greenwood** » Tue Feb 05, 2002 4:33 pm

A quikie note...I have screwed this up several times...so its worth it to check. While you have the cooling manifold off, install the flaps, crossbar, nylon bearings and return spring. Hold your finger over the shaft bearing on the left. Now remember...there is a little metal wire link on the left flap, that hinges to the flap...and to the cooling manifold. If the clip that hold it into either part is too loose, it allow the flap to swing closed when it should be open. So what you should see...if I remember right...is the flap on the right..opening upward away from the cylinders when you let the lever flip up, and the left flap moving downward to rest against that strange piece of sheet metal with the gasket that attaches on top of the oil cooler. This can confuse your mind...as it looks like the left flap is closing when it should be opening. In the closed position, the left flap actually should flip up to block the cooling flow...the right flips down to do the same....when the flaps open, the left flap moves downward and MUST rest on that curved rectangular sheetmetal opening. This opening is a stop...or ledge that allows the oil cooler to get flow as the same time as the cylinder. So no matter what happens...if the cable breaks...the flaps always go to full cool. Ray

lowpro1984 · Post by **lowpro1984** » Tue Feb 05, 2002 11:28 pm

Thank you ray for all the info that you have given me. Richard has also sent me those pics of how it works and I thank him for that also. Now with all your info and richards pics I should be able to get the flaps working sometime soon.

Thank You both very much,
Chris.