Fuel Systems that Feed our Turbo powered mills! (GALLERY)

[GS guy]

And now, how do you combine an AN hose end with current fuel formulation fuel hose - the hard way!
Due to space constraints I wasn't sure if the Earls Ultrapro fittings would work for my tank to pre-filter. The ultrapro screw together fittings are a little bulky and with the short distance between fittings, I wasn't sure I'd be able to assemble a short enough hose.
Plan B - I already had the Aeroquip push-lock fittings but as the pushlock hose isn't long-term compatible with current gas I needed an alternative hose - enter Gates SAE 30R14T2 EFI hose. Since the push-lock fittings are designed to "lock" onto the tough Aeroquip hose, they have a fairly sharp edge on the hose barbs, intended to be used with no external clamps. I was concerned this may internally damage the Gates hose if used as-is. The JEGS fitting from the previous post is better designed for this, but the restrictive ID of the fitting relegated it to the "you pay to learn" bin.
I decided to try and modify the "known ID" Aeroquip fittings instead. Removed the center barb and smoothed the end barb for more of a slip-on hose fitting using the old trusty mini-lathe.

Modified AN6 FIttings.jpg

Fitted the hose with Oetiker clamps for permanent seal. Fits perfect and should work great! I'm using the same idea on my PCV system with AN8 size hardware.

DSC00973.JPG

BTW, that Gates EFI hose is one tough hose! It's a real workout trying to cut with a fresh single-edge razor blade.
Jeff

[panel]

^^^ Nice !

[Ol'fogasaurus]

It should work OK as there are quite a few fittings that are similar to what you turned the fittings into. As I remember correctly (and it's been a long time), the double flanged fittings were for higher pressure and better clamping than the other style of fittings.

Lee

[GS guy]

This hose assembly is for gravity drain out of the tank, so very little pressure. I had a heck of a time finding the right combination of parts to allow a fuel shut-off valve at the tank outlet and still provide a decent drain angle to the high pressure pump pre-filter. It would probably also work OK for typical 45 or so psi EFI system since many EFI fuel hard lines are similar shaped - smooth with small barb on the end. I made a (compressed air) pressure test rig for my hose assemblies and all will be tested individually and as a completed fuel system before seeing any fuel!
Jeff

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I wasn't trying to challenge what you did just giving "use design" info. Your removal of the middle bar looks very smooth, something I doubt I could do.

Lee

[GS guy]

No problems Lee. I may have mentioned earlier, I had planned to use all push-loc fittings and hose for all the low/no pressure pre-pump plumbing - until I saw a youtube about a guy comparing many AN hose brands/types he tested with current gas/alcohol blends. Notably, just about all non-teflon based hose materials hardened up considerably after a year or less of exposure to fuel. I'd seen that happen myself years ago using standard FLAPS fuel hose and was shocked how stiff (maybe even brittle) the hose became! I'll only use the best fuel rated hose materials now.
Jeff

[Ol'fogasaurus]

What you are saying is true... people see things and use them without knowing their design abilities or limitations. If one could look into the specs on things one's jaw would either drop or they'd be so confused they'd never get things done.

(FYI) The first time I was sent by an engineer to find a bolt to meet the requirements he had do deal with I had to index learn first what was available in the index then scroll through the 34 (as I remember) 3-ring binders to find the specific part options that met his requirements so he could decide which ones to use... and that was in the mid 60's, just think of what it would be now.

Each part spec was many pages long . The material, strength, and design and that info then the coding to get the menial stuff figured out like length, threads, shank, type of head, et al. the longest coding I remember having to deal with was either 20 or 21 digests (and that is letters and numbers). What parts/material you can get in box stores or even most fastener stores is so small compared to what is available spec wise.

The companies that make them also have to test them and that is to another spec then they have to ship the tests to the user along with that entire run of parts. I remember once 2 planes had to be grounded for 2 days as the tests report didn't get shipped with the fasteners. That is how critical this stuff can be in certain uses.

Whew!

Lee

[Clonebug]

I ran Gates EFI hose on my EFI sytem for 7 years before swapping it out. It had a combined 40,000 miles on it and even though I changed it out just because I was going on a long trip.....it probably would have been fine for many more years.
I use 5/16ths hose on my inlet and all my hard line is 5/16ths hardline that has about 2 inches slid on and an EFI clamp installed. It has never leaked and it sees pressures of 45 psi plus the 23 lbs boost added to it on the pressure side at least.
There is no raised edge on the hardline or anything and after running for a year it is not easy to get the fuel line off the hard line....it is stuck to it.

I do check my hoses every winter to make sure there is no issue but it's been really reliable and I haven't found a need to add a bunch of fancy fittings to make me feel better about my fuel system.
Not saying it is wrong to use those fittings but I'm not into bling and regular EFI hose, clamps and steel hard line has worked for me.

[Outlaw 66]

Trying to design my fuel system and want to get some opinions. My plan is to run a CB performance blow through setup on my 1776 utilizing my rebuilt Dellorto 40s.

I just purchased a return style FP regulator and crank trigger ignition from CB. My plan is to utilize a carter 4601 fuel pump with 5/16 or 3/8 fuel line which I believe will support my desired 6-10lbs of boost.

My questions. Can I modify the stock pickup to 5/16 or 3/8? Where should I plumb the return line on the stock tank? I don't really want to mess with plumbing new fuel lines through the tunnel so I'm thinking of securing them to the pan.

Thoughts?

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Trying to design my fuel system and want to get some opinions.

My questions. Can I modify the stock pickup to 5/16 or 3/8? Where should I plumb the return line on the stock tank? I don't really want to mess with plumbing new fuel lines through the tunnel so I'm thinking of securing them to the pan.

Thoughts?

An opinion: depending on how old you pan is, there should be some metal straps to the inside of the upper surface that are used to keep plumbing/tubing and/or wiring against the floor bottom of the tunnel join with the idea of keeping hand and feet away from the line. If not or they are worn out and not around, you might be able to make your own clamping design. Going through the tunnel has it good and bad points mostly access to and also vision of what is going on in the tunnel.

Either way I would recommend using a metal tube for safety and a longer life of the tube.

Lee

[Outlaw 66]

Thanks for the feedback. I will definitely utilize stainless hardlines along the pan and ensure they are secured properly.

I like the idea of everything being visible and on the exterior of the vehicle.

[GS guy]

When I built my '74 Bug loooong ago, I ran 3/8" SS tubing under the car, tucked in tight to the floor pan following the edges of the tunnel cover front to rear. Ends were bent vertical to a CB electric pump at firewall, and follow OEM passage in the rear. SS cushioned P-clamps secured them underneath.
I too wanted to keep fuel "outside" the passenger compartment and never had any problems running them underneath. I plumbed a return fitting into the fuel filler neck under the front hood, although I didn't get far enough in the project to use it - was planning a draw-through turbo with return style fuel system. I made a custom 3/8" fuel tank drain fitting that used the original tank female nut and seal. Now there are direct fit AN fittings for fuel drain, or tap tank outlet for internal NPT fitting.
Jeff

[GS guy]

FYI dept: Just saw Aeroquip has a new fuel rated hose called StreetLite Performance Hose. Multi-layer design has low fuel permeation inner liner designed specifically for high alcohol content fuels, or any other fluid (oil, trans, cooling) you want to use it for. Not much info/reviews on it yet but interesting for possible future use? Supposed to utilize their standard braided hose fittings, which comes with it the somewhat smaller hose ID typical for braided hoses and fittings - vs the "nominal" AN- call-out size. Going to keep an eye on this hose, since I've got a ton of extra Aeroquip fittings!
StreetLite Performance Hose
Jeff

[Ol'fogasaurus]

One thing to think about when dealing with outside of the body design is the ground (suspension travel, bumps, lumps and other nasty things. Off-roaders usually (and that it not all for sure) usually keep the fuel. brake and other necessary need lines out from the side (side hits from cars, trees. etc.) on the upper side of the buggy or inside. Fuel lines are a special thing that must be protected from both the potential damage that hits can get but also fire protection for the occupants and access problems.

Buggies are not always that easy to get in and out of in an emergency to look at and plan for both "cause and effect" when building.

Lee

[GS guy]

Back at it again. Decided the fuel pump low pressure feed (fuel tank to pump - gravity feed) needed to be stepped up to AN-8 to avoid any fuel flow restrictions to the pump. Aeroquip push-lock fittings modified as I did the AN-6 stuff previously, combined with Gates Barricade 1/2" (carburetor) hose. I couldn't find the Gates EFI hose in 1/2" in any short lengths, but the carb hose is rated to 35psi - easily an order of magnitude more that it'll see in this use. Also switching to a 3/8 NPT Earls shut-off valve I'll connect to the tank outlet. Once I get the last fitting I can fit/assemble the hoses, pressure test, then call this part good.

Modified AN-8 fittings1. JPG