Replacing ball joints (video)

General tips/tricks/tools that could be utilized on any platform.

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Bugfuel
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Replacing ball joints (video)

Post by Bugfuel » Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:28 pm

Often the old balljoints are REALLY stuck on the arms, and require a lot of pressure to pop them off.

Except if you have a welder:

http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o53/ ... joint3.flv

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Glenn
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Post by Glenn » Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:45 pm

Nice, but why not use a ball joint press?

http://www.glenn-ring.com/temp/ball_joi ... ctions.pdf
Image


You do it with the trailing arms still in the beam.
Glenn
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Bugfuel
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Post by Bugfuel » Tue Sep 09, 2008 12:51 am

because in many cases, that's not enough to pop them loose.
One I had done with a commercial hydraulic press took 13 metric tons of pressure (28660 lbs) before it popped out with a loud bang. Yes it was pressed out straight too..

Jan

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aircooledtechguy
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Post by aircooledtechguy » Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:16 am

My experience has been the same as Jan's. The 12 ton press wouldn't touch them. Put them in a 20 ton press and "BANG" nooooo problem :lol:

vin
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Post by vin » Thu Oct 16, 2008 9:36 pm

ah, yes..thee old, weld the bearing race out of the hub trick...

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david58
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Post by david58 » Thu Apr 02, 2009 4:09 pm

Hey Lew here is the thread. :wink:

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nsracing
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Post by nsracing » Thu May 28, 2009 2:34 am

WTF? A press out and in job for balljoints require grinding and welding?

Looks like you just cooked the suspension arm. Not to mention saving some trees. That is just unneccessary use of electricity. I'd fire you on the spot if worked in my shop. :lol:

I have a 70 ton Dake press. I do not even feel the balljoint come out.
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chad1376
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Post by chad1376 » Fri Jul 03, 2009 3:45 am

I just tried the grind and weld technique - worked like a charm! 3-minutes with the die grinder and 10-seconds with the welder per arm. I doubt the arm is getting that hot. I dunked them in water after welding and they didn't even fizz.

I'll take them to a shop to get new ball joints pressed in though, after some rust removal and paint.

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david58
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Re: Replacing ball joints (video)

Post by david58 » Thu Jun 03, 2010 11:27 pm

Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.

cb77305
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Re: Replacing ball joints (video)

Post by cb77305 » Thu Jun 10, 2010 12:00 pm

The trailing arms, like most suspension pieces on most cars, are forgings and should NEVER be heated. I've never tried to rebuild a ball-joint front suspension so I have no expertise, but I DO know about forgings. I'll be learning how to change out the ball-joints on my '67 bug and will more than likely pull the arms from the tubes and take them somewhere - as Jeff in Auburn recommended.

Bruce2
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Re: Replacing ball joints (video)

Post by Bruce2 » Thu Jun 10, 2010 11:00 pm

cb77305 wrote:The trailing arms, like most suspension pieces on most cars, are forgings and should NEVER be heated.
The small amount of heat generated by welding the ID of the ball joint isn't enough to hurt the control arm.

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david58
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Re: Replacing ball joints (video)

Post by david58 » Tue Nov 01, 2011 7:35 am

Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.

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