Narrowed Trailing Arms

DJ · Post by DJ » Sun Apr 08, 2001 11:10 pm

Hi All,

Has anyone tried to narrow their trailing arms?? Is so what is involved.

Cheers
DJ

Derrick from NC · Post by **Derrick from NC** » Mon Apr 09, 2001 8:14 am

It was done in a past issue(mid-90's I think) of HotVWs. I'll try and fine the issue.

Steve C · Post by **Steve C** » Mon Apr 09, 2001 9:41 am

Hi DJ
Dave Stocker did a set for his Ghia and Ian Halls Ghia http://www.clubvw.org.au/images/jak_5.jpg , let me know and I can put you in touch with him. I may have to get mine done because I want to go to Porsche brakes on the rear and I cant take any increase in track. Are you coming to the Nats.
Regards Steve C

Crazylarry · Post by **Crazylarry** » Mon Apr 09, 2001 11:41 am

I've seen the Hot VW's issuse Derrick talked about but like him it would take some digging to find it. If I remember narrowed the rearend about 2". I'm looking for a little more than that.
Also I believe that KYMCO or someone else sells trailing arms narrowed the way it was done it the Hot VW's mag.

If anyone has anymore info on narrowing trailing arm PLEASE let me know

Larry
[email protected]

Post by **Tom Notch** » Mon Apr 09, 2001 1:11 pm

July or June, '94. The originals were done by Bruce that hangs out here sometimes. The arms are available from California Imports in Vancouver, BC. I have done this mod to my '69 bug and my 64 Notch. You can see a close up of them on my Notch page, rear suspension shot. There is also about a degree and a half of camber removed so it really works nice.

On my bug with the 225/50/16s on 16x7 Fuchs (ET 36?), I had to do a bit of work on the adjustable spring plates to get them to clear the tyre sidewall. Same rims but 205/60s on my notch. No sheetmetal work required on my cars with this set up.

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Tom Notch
Tom's Old VW Home

H2OSB · Post by **H2OSB** » Mon Apr 09, 2001 5:30 pm

Originally posted by Tom Notch:

>>On my bug with the 225/50/16s on 16x7 Fuchs (ET 36?), I had to do a bit of work on the adjustable spring plates to get them to clear the tyre sidewall. Same rims but 205/60s on my notch. No sheetmetal work required on my cars with this set up.<<

I have considered doing this on my '75 1303. What kind of brakes are you running on the rear? Can you be more specific about the work required on the adjustable spingplates? Do you think I'd have any trouble with the brakes clearing if I'm using Porsche 931 (944) rears?

TIA
johnL (aka H2OSB)

DJ · Post by DJ » Mon Apr 09, 2001 6:02 pm

Thanks guys for your responses, Derrick, Crazylarry if you could dig up that info that would be great.

Tom Notch, I'll check your site out, if I need more details, I'll come back to you.

Steve, if you can put me in touch with Dave Stocker that would be appeciated. Just like yourself I can't have a track increase.
Definately will be at the Nats (For all you non Aussies out there, it't the Major Annual VW Show). Are you entering your car this year??

Cheers
DJ

Post by **Tom Notch** » Mon Apr 09, 2001 8:17 pm

I had to trim (grind) the adjuster screw block on the spring plate down. I made it thinner and then put a bevel on the front edge of the block where the tyre sidewall was at it's closest. This is with 914 rotors on the back. I may have been able to put 8" rims under but might have to pull the T1 German fender lip out just a bit. The fatter rim would give a bit more clearance to the spring plate due to moving the tyre out a bit.

On the notch the fit is great. The trimming on that car was just the shock tower and bump stop, difference in the way the tower is made between the two cars.

I know the process to do the narrowing and wouldn't attempt it myself. There are too many jigs and such for me to make to get the same high quality part. Plus they come powdercoated and no hassle to install,lots of room on standard spring plates. I'll be ableto pullthe 8mm spacer when the disc brakes go in.

For axles you can use T3 auto left side onlys (I have a pair if anybody can't get some local) or you can use the T2 into T1 conversion axles that are sold by Erco and SAW. The bug has the SAW conversion axles in it and tricked T2 cvs. The Notch has one stock T4 stick axle and a custom, shortened SAW on the left (it's a T4 automatic) and a combo of T2 and T4 cvs. A real mongrel!

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Tom Notch
Tom's Old VW Home

H2OSB · Post by **H2OSB** » Mon Apr 09, 2001 10:19 pm

Thanks for the reply Tom Notch. No, I wouldn't attempt that narrowing myself. I meant that I had looked into buying a set from California Imports. Also, You said that you have adjustable spring plates. Although this would work great with my front adjustable coil-overs, I probably won't use them. Isn't there a way to have the rear adjustable at the center of the torsion tube? Or is that a swing axle thing?

Anyway, thanks for the info.
johnL (aka H2OSB)

DJ · Post by DJ » Mon Apr 09, 2001 10:43 pm

Tom,

Can you mount 944 rear brakes on those narrowed trailing arms without the brakes fouling on anything???

Cheers
DJ

Post by **Tom Notch** » Mon Apr 09, 2001 11:53 pm

Send me the brakes, I'll try.

I've never tried

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by DJ:
<B>Tom,

Can you mount 944 rear brakes on those narrowed trailing arms without the brakes fouling on anything???

Cheers
DJ</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

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Tom Notch
Tom's Old VW Home

bruce · Post by **bruce** » Tue Apr 10, 2001 10:05 pm

Damn, why do all the good questions appear on the weekend when I'm not around?

The article is in the June 94 hotVWs (blue 55 convert on the cover) There is one step not covered in the article, and that's a final align boring of the bearing bores to restore the original interference fit of the ball bearing. It wasn't covered because I didn't know about it at the time. Everything Tom says is correct (only person on the planet with 2 pairs!) Trailing arms narrow track by precisly 26mm per side. I've heard the 944 rear discs add that exact amount. This is only by coincidence. When I first did the conversion in 92, no one used 944 brakes, the brakes of choice were 914. I make all the arms clear an original 914 rotor mounted to a genuine VW T3 hub turned down. I haven't tried the fit of aftermarket 914 rotors, or the one piece rotors. There is some modification necessary to use the cast CB aluminum bracket. The trailing arms work with the very old Avis billet aluminum brackets and the welded steel ones sold about 5 years ago (nla). I have never thought of even checking if a 944 bracket will work. Nor have I considered the backing plate, rotor, or e-brake cable. It goes without saying, they work with stock drums.
If you are thinking about getting them, do so soon, as I am loosing access to equipment necessary to do the job. Whether I find another way or quit making them is undecided.

DJ · Post by DJ » Tue Apr 10, 2001 10:45 pm

Bruce,

What's your location as I'm in Oz, and what's the cost and turn around time to get the job done?

Cheers
DJ

bruce · Post by **bruce** » Wed Apr 11, 2001 10:50 am

I'm in Vancouver Canada. If you go to vwcalimports.com they have them in stock, so turn around time is however long it takes you to send money. I don't know if they will ship DU, though. Price is $300 US. If they aren't interested in working with you, I'll sell you a pair direct.

Steve Arndt · Post by **Steve Arndt** » Wed Apr 11, 2001 11:42 am

Bruce,
Can you explain again what you do with the camber? Do you induce more positive so it ends up closer to zero when slammed low? I want to end up a hair lower than stock, with around 1 degree of less of negative (after C5 Vette handling, not drag racing).
Steve