Another Type 4 Turbo Thread
- Sandeep
- Posts: 199
- Joined: Mon May 12, 2003 9:41 am
Thanks for the suggestions so far.
The only noises that I have not heard before while I drive is .... SKREEEECH ... WHOOOOOOOOSHHHHHHH ... PSHHH ... CHIIIRPP ... WHOOOOOOOOSHHHHHHH ... PSHHH ... WHOOOOOOOOSHHHHHHH
I have checked the valves and the adjustments are right where they were before first start up, no deviation.
This block has never been opened, and the head gaskets are still in place. No HD springs on stock 914 heads and stock cam.
The WRX turbo is factory set at 13.5 psi and this is confirmed because my MAP reads a high of 12.2 psi in the manifold, with a 1.1 psi loss (PWR documentation) through the barrel A/W intercooler.
The engine will rev higher (I'm sure of it) but 5200 RPM is good enough for me. I'm on boost for about 15 seconds before the speed gets a little crazy and I'm doing well over the speed limit by then.
I have not installed my manual boost controller yet but the goal would be to run this engine at 18 psi till something breaks and then fix it.
Sandeep
The only noises that I have not heard before while I drive is .... SKREEEECH ... WHOOOOOOOOSHHHHHHH ... PSHHH ... CHIIIRPP ... WHOOOOOOOOSHHHHHHH ... PSHHH ... WHOOOOOOOOSHHHHHHH
I have checked the valves and the adjustments are right where they were before first start up, no deviation.
This block has never been opened, and the head gaskets are still in place. No HD springs on stock 914 heads and stock cam.
The WRX turbo is factory set at 13.5 psi and this is confirmed because my MAP reads a high of 12.2 psi in the manifold, with a 1.1 psi loss (PWR documentation) through the barrel A/W intercooler.
The engine will rev higher (I'm sure of it) but 5200 RPM is good enough for me. I'm on boost for about 15 seconds before the speed gets a little crazy and I'm doing well over the speed limit by then.
I have not installed my manual boost controller yet but the goal would be to run this engine at 18 psi till something breaks and then fix it.
Sandeep
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- Posts: 7404
- Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2001 12:01 am
- Sandeep
- Posts: 199
- Joined: Mon May 12, 2003 9:41 am
Found the noise
Well, I found out what the noise was
I thought it was something to do with the 1-2 head and it was ... the valve cover cork seal didn't sit right when I put it on the first time and I had oil dripping on the hot header just below the valve cover ... so the noise was sizzling oil, sounds like cracking glass Fixed now.
I've had it to 13 psi now and the hottest the heads get after a hard 20 minute drive is , #1 - 341 F, #2 - 344 F, #3 - 351 F, and #4 - 354 F
I'm on boost for about 20 seconds before speeds get insane.
MAT gets as high as 41C with 27C ambient air temps with the A/W intercooler.
So far so good ... first big trip will be to Niagara Falls next weekend for a show.
Sandeep
I thought it was something to do with the 1-2 head and it was ... the valve cover cork seal didn't sit right when I put it on the first time and I had oil dripping on the hot header just below the valve cover ... so the noise was sizzling oil, sounds like cracking glass Fixed now.
I've had it to 13 psi now and the hottest the heads get after a hard 20 minute drive is , #1 - 341 F, #2 - 344 F, #3 - 351 F, and #4 - 354 F
I'm on boost for about 20 seconds before speeds get insane.
MAT gets as high as 41C with 27C ambient air temps with the A/W intercooler.
So far so good ... first big trip will be to Niagara Falls next weekend for a show.
Sandeep
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- Posts: 20132
- Joined: Fri Jul 07, 2000 12:01 am
-
- Posts: 1033
- Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2002 1:01 am
Sandeep from looking at the data you posted i can see that their is a 3F difference between 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 and also a 10 degree difference between the left and right banks of the engine. Jake does the DTM show such similar results or are they more even in that the difference in temp from left to right bank is smaller or it doesn't exist. By the way Sandeep great work.
- Sandeep
- Posts: 199
- Joined: Mon May 12, 2003 9:41 am
Update
Well, I had the first big drive this last weekend to a VW show in Niagara Falls, Canada. I had the new fuel maps and ignition maps loaded up and met the group for the cruise down on Sunday morning.
The car ran very well on the way down, but what impressed me the most is the power above 3000 rpm. You just do not have to downshift from 5th to 4th to make a pass.
The traffic was light in the morning on the highway so I took the opportunity to do a WOT run in 4th gear. The datalog shows a max RPM of 5400 and max boost of 16.1 PSI . AFR through the boost portion of the run was steady at 11.7, hottest CHT was #4 @ 359F but once off boost, settled down at 346 F.
It looks like with stock valve springs I can't get it to rev past 5400. I think this is OK as I don't beleive I am hurting the springs, and am not over reving the engine.
Oil temp gets to 180F fairly quickly but the oil cooler and fan keep it to around 200-210 F.
I'm still not happy with the power below 3000 RPM though. It seems lethargic in its power but when revs hit 3000 .. LOOK OUT !
I'm hoping this is an ignition map issue as I still don't beleive I have the map sorted out.
Overall, I'm very happy. If can get the issues below 3000 rpm sorted out, I'll be even more happy. I hope this engine holds it together for the rest of this summer
Can any one tell me what may be expected to fail at these levels of tune and why ? I want to be prepared for any parts I may need.
Thanks to everyone who offered a suggestion or feedback during this build as I could not have done it without this board and its members. It is truely one great resource.
Sandeep
The car ran very well on the way down, but what impressed me the most is the power above 3000 rpm. You just do not have to downshift from 5th to 4th to make a pass.
The traffic was light in the morning on the highway so I took the opportunity to do a WOT run in 4th gear. The datalog shows a max RPM of 5400 and max boost of 16.1 PSI . AFR through the boost portion of the run was steady at 11.7, hottest CHT was #4 @ 359F but once off boost, settled down at 346 F.
It looks like with stock valve springs I can't get it to rev past 5400. I think this is OK as I don't beleive I am hurting the springs, and am not over reving the engine.
Oil temp gets to 180F fairly quickly but the oil cooler and fan keep it to around 200-210 F.
I'm still not happy with the power below 3000 RPM though. It seems lethargic in its power but when revs hit 3000 .. LOOK OUT !
I'm hoping this is an ignition map issue as I still don't beleive I have the map sorted out.
Overall, I'm very happy. If can get the issues below 3000 rpm sorted out, I'll be even more happy. I hope this engine holds it together for the rest of this summer
Can any one tell me what may be expected to fail at these levels of tune and why ? I want to be prepared for any parts I may need.
Thanks to everyone who offered a suggestion or feedback during this build as I could not have done it without this board and its members. It is truely one great resource.
Sandeep
- jonas_linder
- Posts: 1587
- Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2002 12:01 am
Re: Update
The valve floats.. I had the same problem.. not in first (almost no boost), a little in second (more load=more boost), but in third and fourth gear the valve float at 4300rpm with 1.4bar pressure!Sandeep wrote:Well, I had the first big drive this last weekend to a VW show in Niagara Falls, Canada. I had the new fuel maps and ignition maps loaded up and met the group for the cruise down on Sunday morning.
The car ran very well on the way down, but what impressed me the most is the power above 3000 rpm. You just do not have to downshift from 5th to 4th to make a pass.
The traffic was light in the morning on the highway so I took the opportunity to do a WOT run in 4th gear. The datalog shows a max RPM of 5400 and max boost of 16.1 PSI . AFR through the boost portion of the run was steady at 11.7, hottest CHT was #4 @ 359F but once off boost, settled down at 346 F.
It looks like with stock valve springs I can't get it to rev past 5400. I think this is OK as I don't beleive I am hurting the springs, and am not over reving the engine.
Oil temp gets to 180F fairly quickly but the oil cooler and fan keep it to around 200-210 F.
I'm still not happy with the power below 3000 RPM though. It seems lethargic in its power but when revs hit 3000 .. LOOK OUT !
I'm hoping this is an ignition map issue as I still don't beleive I have the map sorted out.
Overall, I'm very happy. If can get the issues below 3000 rpm sorted out, I'll be even more happy. I hope this engine holds it together for the rest of this summer
Can any one tell me what may be expected to fail at these levels of tune and why ? I want to be prepared for any parts I may need.
Thanks to everyone who offered a suggestion or feedback during this build as I could not have done it without this board and its members. It is truely one great resource.
Sandeep
The engine really comes alive when you tweak the timing, adding more timing around idle really brought jonas engine to life
When you open the throttle vaccum will drop and the engine like more timing to rev up! Look at my post on your other thread (I know you already did though )
If the piston is equal in quality to the stock buspistons they should not be a problem. At that boostlevel I think you will break the headgasket sooner or later.
Where are the pictures?!?!
- Piledriver
- Moderator
- Posts: 22520
- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 12:01 am
Thanks for the inspriation, you "made me do it"...
Picked up a VF14/VJ11 hybrid off Ebay for $26. (+$33 shipping)
Should work good on the 1.8 w/1.7 heads, esp with the Volvo IC.
Picked up a VF14/VJ11 hybrid off Ebay for $26. (+$33 shipping)
Should work good on the 1.8 w/1.7 heads, esp with the Volvo IC.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
-
- Posts: 299
- Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 6:55 pm
Re: Update
What have you got for timing now ? Initail and total.
You can run more advance in the lower gears,
without detonating.Not sure how to do that with a Megasquirt.
Some people used to use a dual points distributor,and switch
back and forth between points sets depending on which gear
they were in.
You can run more advance in the lower gears,
without detonating.Not sure how to do that with a Megasquirt.
Some people used to use a dual points distributor,and switch
back and forth between points sets depending on which gear
they were in.
Sandeep wrote: I'm still not happy with the power below 3000 RPM though. It seems lethargic in its power but when revs hit 3000 .. LOOK OUT !
I'm hoping this is an ignition map issue as I still don't beleive I have the map sorted out.
Overall, I'm very happy. If can get the issues below 3000 rpm sorted out, I'll be even more happy. I hope this engine holds it together for the rest of this summer
Sandeep
- Sandeep
- Posts: 199
- Joined: Mon May 12, 2003 9:41 am
And here are the pics:
Completed engine bay
WRX turbo with custom 3" downpipe, LC1 and injectors with fuel rail. Need to change angle of turbo drain as the hose is low .. minor task
PWR Air/Water IC. The intercooler is mounted in such a way that I will fab up a small panel to hide the setup. 52mm Ford TB with IAC valve, throttle cable mount is temporary.
Stock windshield resevoir as overflow tank for IC
VF 750 radiator mounted under front apron. I had a scoop installed on this radiator but the scoop was too low for my liking. There is a ton of room behind the apron in front of the beam for a radiator. I will move it up further and remake the scoop so you will not even know it is there.
Electric hot water pump, sort of tough to see.
I remapped the ignition down low and what a frikin difference ! Its much better than before but still needs some work.
I readjusted the boost to a max of 13 psi and it is still a thrill, but not as big of a thrill as 16 PSI. Hope to keep the head gaskets together until I can remove them after the summer.
As far as the 911 vanes are concerned, you need to actually have the shroud, fan with alt and diverter cap installed to see where the vanes need to go. It becomes quite clear when it is installed. You basically extend the vanes and point them at #3 and #4.
Sandeep
Completed engine bay
WRX turbo with custom 3" downpipe, LC1 and injectors with fuel rail. Need to change angle of turbo drain as the hose is low .. minor task
PWR Air/Water IC. The intercooler is mounted in such a way that I will fab up a small panel to hide the setup. 52mm Ford TB with IAC valve, throttle cable mount is temporary.
Stock windshield resevoir as overflow tank for IC
VF 750 radiator mounted under front apron. I had a scoop installed on this radiator but the scoop was too low for my liking. There is a ton of room behind the apron in front of the beam for a radiator. I will move it up further and remake the scoop so you will not even know it is there.
Electric hot water pump, sort of tough to see.
I remapped the ignition down low and what a frikin difference ! Its much better than before but still needs some work.
I readjusted the boost to a max of 13 psi and it is still a thrill, but not as big of a thrill as 16 PSI. Hope to keep the head gaskets together until I can remove them after the summer.
As far as the 911 vanes are concerned, you need to actually have the shroud, fan with alt and diverter cap installed to see where the vanes need to go. It becomes quite clear when it is installed. You basically extend the vanes and point them at #3 and #4.
Sandeep