Redline oil.......

76campmobile · Post by **76campmobile** » Sat Feb 12, 2005 12:29 pm

Is it worth the price?? $6 a quart here.

Post by **Piledriver** » Sat Feb 12, 2005 1:00 pm

Purely my opinion:

No. Any improved performance to justify the $$$ for Redline or AMSOIL vs almost any other synthetic have never been seen in any independant study _I_ have seen. Some show quite the opposite.

If anyone has links to a study NOT paid for by Amsoil or Redine that shows otherwise, I am open to enlightenment.

Having said that, the stuff I DO run works out to ~$4/qt, and the last motor I built from all used parts in a snowy driveway in upstate NY is still running well~15 years later.

I ran Mobil1, Castrol Syntec(Breifly), and for the last ~200K my son ran what I run now in everything, Rotella-T 5W-40 Synthetic.

My valve adjusters love it, no more galling or even apparent wear (once tips reradiused,cleaned up and polished)--I can't even say that for Mobil1. I haven't had to _adjust_ my valves in ages. (Rotella oils are intended for Diesel use, lotsa zinc and other goodies)

In the winter, I would consider Dino oil (Rotella-T in the white bottle) or a blend and frequent oil changes, esp if you don't run a thermostat.

If its not cold, getting a T4 hot pushing a Bay is no issue.

daylight · Post by **daylight** » Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:14 pm

howdy what is rotella-t oil

Post by **Piledriver** » Tue Feb 15, 2005 10:52 pm

Shell Rotella-T 5W40, full synthetic comes in a a blue 1 gal bottle. Also available is Rotella-T dino oil in a WHITE 1gal bottle,
both can be had at Wal-Mart.

Both are intended for HD diesel use, but work fine in gas engines (S?/C?) whatever ratings are most current.

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 7:21 am

Royal Purple rules in my book...

I have tested 8 oils and for the money the Royal Purple spanked everything else on the dyno and in my 912E..

The last oil change in the 912E was accomplished with 17K miles on the oil! I am now at 11K on this oil change and no consumption what so ever...

I'm a total synthetic user- After an engine is broken in its all I use and Royal Purple is #1 on my list... I dropped 40 degrees off the oil temps in my Bus engine with switching to Royal Purple and saw a big enough diffference to totally remove the external cooler from it! Now I can run 80MPH at 4600 RPM for days and the oil won't hit 220!

All the old writings about aircooled engines and Synthetics were done when there was only one or two synthetic oils around and 20+ years ago.. Today synthetic oils are way different and if you had seen the differences that I have in a direct test in several different engines there would be no question as to the worth of that 6 dollar a qt investment....

A 6 buck a qt oil that can go 12K+ on an oil change safely is a bit smarter than a 2.50 per qt conventional oil that will only have a lifespan of 3K miles.....

BTW- Last time I changed the oil in my company bus was in 2003....... I'm TRYING to promote wear and push the limits to see just what the Royal Purple can do...

FYI- The Valvoline full synthetic is right on the heels of the Royal Purple, and its cheaper and easier to get.

Post by **Piledriver** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 8:59 am

Jake, if one of those 8 oils was Rotella-T Syn, I'd consider giving Royal Purple a shot.. I can't recall any test data on it... Have to look.

My "data" is only from having my engines seem to last forever, and looking at valve adjuster screws every few kmiles, and seeing ZERO wear, no galling. (I've stopped even pulling them lately, just never have to adjust is good enough for me)

I still had some (stock type) valve adjuster galling with the Valvoline full syn--- went away completely when I went to the Rotella syn.

I DO know Royal Purple gear lube really helped my sons transmission.

If I WAS thinking of spending the $$ on Amsoil, I'd go Royal Purple just on Jakes recommendation.

Contact me off list if needed.

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:58 am

I did not test Rotella..

I plan on doing this test even more extensively again in the future when i get my Data acquisition set up on the NEW dyno I plan on having here in late 2005.. This dyno will show very small differences even more accurately.

It will be set up for test work only and the old dyno will be for testing customer's engines...

Post by **Piledriver** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:12 am

You have way too much money!;-)

You'll be getting an order from me for motor bits and an exhaust as soon as the Taxman gets his due.
(Still looking like 101.6x66/T1 rods, + boost, Deutz jugs as us po' folk can't afford Nickies...at the moment.)
The A1 exhaust will be for an as yet TBD car, an early bug or perhaps Ghia.

BTW, I went to the Rotella specifically BECAUSE of its anti-galling properties.

It was developed to address the late model big rigs cam/lifter issues, and I wanted to test my theory that valve adjustments were primarily due to the adjutment screws flat spotting/galling up.

It took me a few cycles to find 8 "good" screws, but ever since, it's been zero adjustments, and just a fine polished line on the screw tip radius where it hits the valve, no more flat spots.

76campmobile · Post by **76campmobile** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 1:49 pm

Pile, I sent you an email.....

After I get the oil leak issues cleared up, I am seriouslly considering switching to full synthetic. Would this do ANY harm to new engine?

Was broke in on regular Castrol 10w40. This engine has less than 50 miles on it, New cam lifters mod 26mm pump, new p/c's heads etc........

NextGen · Post by **NextGen** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 1:52 pm

The last 30k Redline in my trans and Mobil 1 in my engine. Jake I am sure is right about some oils being better but, no problems with the mobil one. At 50k the oil looks like a new engine when I change it every 3k.

As for the Redline in the trans. Here in NY with DINO in below freezing temps I could hardly move my stick. With the Redline it is like a summer day.

I will say one thing Syn oils make a big difference in many ways so if you change look for some changes in temps, starting and leaks. But a well built engine should not leak. Some trannies seep very slowly..

joe

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 1:54 pm

Get 2K miles on that engine before going to synthetic... else the rings will never really seat...

Pile, "I" Don't have much money at all.... (I keep only enough to eat frozen Pizza and pay my very few bills)

I spent MORE on R&D last year than I kept! ( by over 100%)

The only way this shop has been successful is with huge sacrifices on my part... Thank God I live simple.

Post by **Piledriver** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 2:04 pm

The Rotella-T in the WHITE bottle is Dino oil, and has a supposedly similar additive package for anti-scuff etc.

Its what I used for breaking in my sons motors (3rd try: cam/lifter combo that finally worked. (3rd time the charm?) Web and Johns coated lifters)

76campmobile · Post by **76campmobile** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 2:12 pm

And I thought I was the only one living on frozen pizza's.

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 2:22 pm

Nope, my favorite is the Stouffer's French Bread...

I don't have time to think, or leave the shop most of the time during the week.....

Ephry73 · Post by **Ephry73** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 2:49 pm

Hey, how about Gear lubes and oils? Which would be better for a well worn in 1972 tranny? Royal Purple? Redline? or Valvoline gear oil?

Just curious.

Ephry