2270 or 2056 Big Bore for 914 2.0L?

Tak · Post by **Tak** » Wed Jul 31, 2002 12:56 pm

Hi all,
I found a 96-mm big bore kit from EBS Racing in NV with $335, which will give me 2056 cc. The price is good. Have anyone used it?

Where can I find a crankshaft and conrod to increase the stroke and make it to 2270?

Here is my situation: I bought 74 914 2.0L. The engine compression is around 70 psi and #2 are 35 psi. I need new piston, cylinder and head. This engine is converted to double Weber 44s. At this occasion, I like to install big bore for 2270 with some inexpensive ways.

My options could be: 1) 2270 with Dual 44s 2) 2056 with Dual 44s, or 3) 2056 with Single Weber (32/38 or 38/38)

I appreciate any comments or experiences.

Tak

Dave_Darling · Post by **Dave_Darling** » Wed Jul 31, 2002 3:19 pm

John Connelly at aircooled.net for the parts. (I'll let you guess what his website is.

)

If you're going for a large carbed engine, put a good aggressive Web cam in.

A well set-up 2270 will kick a well set-up 2056's butt. But it will also cost more, take more time to build, and so on.

And the best use for single progressive carbs on a Type IV (or 914) engine is: Give them the "float test". That is, unbolt them from the motor, and throw them into a lake. If they float, retrieve them for further study. 009 distributors are good for this as well.

--DD

------------------
1974 VW-Porsche 914 2.0 (Type IV powered!)

Pelican Parts' 914 Tech Geek http://www.pelicanparts.com

[This message has been edited by Dave_Darling (edited 07-31-2002).]

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Wed Jul 31, 2002 5:56 pm

The dfference between the two engines is the powerband, and where power is made, I have gotten equal HP from the two engines, but at vastly different RPM ranges...

when you go to a stroker be prepared, either buy my 100% prepared kit or be ready for an interchange challenge..

as for the 335.00 set of pistons and cylinders: Measure every cylinder for roundness,measure every cylinder for taper, measure every cylinder from deck to flange,chuck them up in a lathe and meaure for runout at the sealing surface to the head, measure every piston from pin to crown, and then weigh the pistons in grams for balance.....I think if you will do these checks, you wil see why they are so cheaply priced....I have one on my trophy shelf with the entire top of it broken away!!

The TIV world is filled with guesswork,don't become a statistic, do your homework and open the wallet.

------------------
Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com

Tak · Post by **Tak** » Fri Aug 02, 2002 7:58 am

Dave,

Thank you for the comments for the single Weber. Well, from my experience with other water-cooled 2000cc engines, single Weber 32/36 or 38/38 provide enough fuel for normal street driving. Double Weber 44 is too much, unless you race, don?t you think? Or more fuel is necessary to keep engine running cooler? is there anything unique about air-cooled engine in this regard?
What would be the best carburetor setting for 2000 ~ 2200 cc 914 for street use?
Again, any comments are welcomed?

Mueller · Post by **Mueller** » Fri Aug 02, 2002 8:23 am

TAK,

The single weber not working well with our motors has NOTHING do to with it flowing enough air or gas, you can bolt on a huge 4 barrel v8 carb and run into the same problems.

The issue is the single carb is too far away from the cylinders for the best fuel atomization. Your best bet is too find a set of dual carbs or put on a factory style fuel injection on it.

Tak · Post by **Tak** » Fri Aug 02, 2002 9:00 am

Thank you, that makes sense. I like the simplicity of carburetor, but if I have to install D-jet, I will do.

Let?s say that I will use double Weber 44. What would be the best compromise of its jet setting for overall street use? Can I change the venturi to a smaller size? How to improve cold start?
I am in Michigan and it gets cold.

Dave_Darling · Post by **Dave_Darling** » Fri Aug 02, 2002 12:42 pm

Jetting is very dependent on pretty much everything about the engine. Displacement, cam, compression, carb size, exhaust, etc. In addition to minor details like ambient temperature, humidity, air pressure...

Someone with a similar motor to yours (in detail) can give you pretty good advice as to where to start. But that's just a starting point. If you really want the most out of the motor, you'll have to dyno it.

Webers have venturis that you can swap.

Some Webers (don't know which ones, sorry!) have cold-start enrichment devices. For the rest, you're pretty much SOL. Just let the car idle along until it starts running OK.

--DD

------------------
1974 VW-Porsche 914 2.0 (Type IV powered!)

Pelican Parts' 914 Tech Geek http://www.pelicanparts.com

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Fri Aug 02, 2002 2:45 pm

I just made 140+ BHP on the dyno last week with a 2056, 44 webers, 135 mains and 36mm vents.......thats alot of power from a 2056.

------------------
Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com

kevin powers · Post by **kevin powers** » Fri Aug 02, 2002 4:18 pm

so 140+ out of the 2056. will this configuration spare me the hassle of the ext. cooler being discussed over at pp?

Mueller · Post by **Mueller** » Fri Aug 02, 2002 4:45 pm

Hassle??

I don't think it's a hassle if it'll keep your motor living longer...I have a stock 2.0 that's getting an aux cooler...I like to have a little extra insurance

140hp? sweet !!!!

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Fri Aug 02, 2002 6:10 pm

GEARING has EVERYTHING to do with oil temps, I cannot seem to stress that enough.

The thgread at pelican is about one of my engines, a 2270 with tight gears. Normally a small external cooler without a fan will control oil temps for a 914/2270 combo.

Oil temps are not dependant upon head temps at all, I see it on my dyno nearly everyday.

I can place a 25 HP load on the engine at 3500 rpm and yield a head temp of 325-350, perfect, and then have an oil temp of 180. All it takes is dropping the load to 10 HP, and increasing RPM to 4500,making less heat in the heads, and IMMEDIATELY the oil temps rise, and will continue to until the engine RPM drops. This is seen everytime I dyno an engine as my last checks are done at 3 cruising levels, and not at WOT like power pulls...

This 2056 needs an external cooler as well, its oil temps were as hot as a 2270, but it has 10:1 CR.

------------------
Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com