Putting together a 1915, stock crank, balanced rods and pistons, regular 94mm cimas. Stock ported heads, 40mm IDFs, 009, Header exhaust, dual quiet pak,
First question----What cam do you guys think would be better an Engle 100 or 120,? this engine will not be needing to rev, will be on a stock 72 super trans. also with the stock crank.
20, what Compression ratio would be best with the 100 or 120? I would like to keep it on the low side. This engine will be living in Arizona, where it is hot.
3) What jetting would be about what we would want on this 1915?, 40mm IDFs, F-67 emultion tubes, and stock vents 34mm? I beleive.
I was thinking the 100 would be best for this engine, as lower revs with the stock crank would be best, and about 7.5 CR
Please give me your opinions, Thanks a lot, John
1915 cam and jetting
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mharney
- Posts: 3365
- Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2002 12:01 am
1915 cam and jetting
John,
The Engle 110 is a very good broad powerband cam with some umph - the 100 is pretty mild, and the 120 is gonna need some rpms and headwork to shine. I would suggest the one in the middle.
--Mark
The Engle 110 is a very good broad powerband cam with some umph - the 100 is pretty mild, and the 120 is gonna need some rpms and headwork to shine. I would suggest the one in the middle.
--Mark
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MASSIVE TYPE IV
- Posts: 20132
- Joined: Fri Jul 07, 2000 12:01 am
1915 cam and jetting
Heres a damn good combo..
1914,
Web 122/125 cam 1.1:1 rockers
40x35 valves, medium port work
9.5:1 with the tightest deck possible(don't worry it won't get hot)
Use the Weber 40's with a 32mm Vent (stock is a tiny, 28mm)
This is a purely violent combo, I have it in testing right now, it really works, but won't make power past 6K, you can run single springs, but duals are needed for more than 6K with this cam..
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Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com
1914,
Web 122/125 cam 1.1:1 rockers
40x35 valves, medium port work
9.5:1 with the tightest deck possible(don't worry it won't get hot)
Use the Weber 40's with a 32mm Vent (stock is a tiny, 28mm)
This is a purely violent combo, I have it in testing right now, it really works, but won't make power past 6K, you can run single springs, but duals are needed for more than 6K with this cam..
------------------
Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com
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fastfood
- Posts: 465
- Joined: Wed May 23, 2001 12:01 am
1915 cam and jetting
Jake's sounds like a fun combo, but something along the line of the 110 or the 100 would work best with what you asked about in your post. If you are ever going to upgrade your heads down the road, then you might put Jake's recommendation for the Web-cam in the engine now, that way you won't have to tear down the engine later when and if you get new heads.
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Rice, it's what's for dinner!!!
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Rice, it's what's for dinner!!!
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John Massengale
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2001 12:01 am
1915 cam and jetting
Thanks for your opinions about the cam, This engine is for a friend of mine, Don't think he will be upgrading, This is his first engine, didn't even have a 1600 first, What ever goes in it he will be impressed. This is all he wants too, Think we will go with the 100, The reason I asked about the 100 and 120 is because those cams we already have, Otherwise I would go with a 110. His next engine will be made from a new one, and he will just leave this one alone, besides it is mostly stock with a big bore. only cost 150 bucks more to make, 100 more for pistons, and 50 for cam. I just made a fixture to hold both sides of he case to mill out the spitots, works awsome, no need to take all the studs out to mount on the table. heads can also go on it too. So now machine work is free, also made my own flycutter,
A little off topic, but how many of you guys cut case spigots with a counterbore in them at the bottom?, I cut only down enuf to have the jug go all the way in, the bottom has a smaller hole- still a little smaller then the piston size, I figured this way there is a little more case left to help center webs from breaking and case savers from pulling out, as when boring to 94mm cylender, it gets real thin, with the counterbore half of the case saver is supported better at the bottom.
About the jetting, who has 1915s with 40mm IDFs on them? where is your jets at?, I have a drill kit, just need to know what is getting close, Thanks, John
A little off topic, but how many of you guys cut case spigots with a counterbore in them at the bottom?, I cut only down enuf to have the jug go all the way in, the bottom has a smaller hole- still a little smaller then the piston size, I figured this way there is a little more case left to help center webs from breaking and case savers from pulling out, as when boring to 94mm cylender, it gets real thin, with the counterbore half of the case saver is supported better at the bottom.
About the jetting, who has 1915s with 40mm IDFs on them? where is your jets at?, I have a drill kit, just need to know what is getting close, Thanks, John
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MASSIVE TYPE IV
- Posts: 20132
- Joined: Fri Jul 07, 2000 12:01 am
1915 cam and jetting
This cam makes power, no matter what the heads are. I have used it with stock heads and heater bnoxes and made great power...You just gotta have a Web Cam.
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Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com
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Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com
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melbatoast
- Posts: 181
- Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2002 12:01 am
1915 cam and jetting
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by John Massengale:
<B>
A little off topic, but how many of you guys cut case spigots with a counterbore in them at the bottom?, I cut only down enuf to have the jug go all the way in, the bottom has a smaller hole- still a little smaller then the piston size, I figured this way there is a little more case left to help center webs from breaking and case savers from pulling out, as when boring to 94mm cylender, it gets real thin, with the counterbore half of the case saver is supported better at the bottom.
</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
that is exactly what i did. i work in a decent sized tool shop (about 125 employees) and i have access to about any machine you can think of. gettin my cases 'step' bored was easy (cheap too! -free-).
i am running 94's, so i figured leaving as much material as possible in the case sure couldn't hurt.
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arlan
--------
you see these?
they are my carkeys.
you will never get these.
<B>
A little off topic, but how many of you guys cut case spigots with a counterbore in them at the bottom?, I cut only down enuf to have the jug go all the way in, the bottom has a smaller hole- still a little smaller then the piston size, I figured this way there is a little more case left to help center webs from breaking and case savers from pulling out, as when boring to 94mm cylender, it gets real thin, with the counterbore half of the case saver is supported better at the bottom.
</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
that is exactly what i did. i work in a decent sized tool shop (about 125 employees) and i have access to about any machine you can think of. gettin my cases 'step' bored was easy (cheap too! -free-).
i am running 94's, so i figured leaving as much material as possible in the case sure couldn't hurt.
------------------
arlan
--------
you see these?
they are my carkeys.
you will never get these.
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Airhead68
- Posts: 138
- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2002 12:01 am
1915 cam and jetting
I like the 100 cam its fun reliable easy on the valve train good bottom end with a set of 1.25 rockers later on it will liven it up more I run one on my daily driver with idf 40s it does quit pulling at 5000
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ANT
- Posts: 979
- Joined: Thu May 24, 2001 12:01 am
1915 cam and jetting
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MASSIVE TYPE IV:
<B>Heres a damn good combo..
1914,
Web 122/125 cam 1.1:1 rockers
40x35 valves, medium port work
9.5:1 with the tightest deck possible(don't worry it won't get hot)
Use the Weber 40's with a 32mm Vent (stock is a tiny, 28mm)
This is a purely violent combo, I have it in testing right now, it really works, but won't make power past 6K, you can run single springs, but duals are needed for more than 6K with this cam..
</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Jake, I have almost the same setup==
118/119 cam (a little tamer)
42x37.5 valves dual springs (Level 6 AJ Sims)
SuperSquish pistons (compression ratio to be around the same, possibly more)
Also will be running a super tight deck
Vacuum advance dizzy (may run a Mallory) with CD ignition
Question regarding exhuast....merged or regular...size? 1 5/8? Will be using J tubes.
How's this sound? Good bad indifferent? Just want a strong torquey street engine, hopefully would break into the 14's (will take it to the track to have fun and see what it'll do, not really for competition) Thanx!
-ANT
<B>Heres a damn good combo..
1914,
Web 122/125 cam 1.1:1 rockers
40x35 valves, medium port work
9.5:1 with the tightest deck possible(don't worry it won't get hot)
Use the Weber 40's with a 32mm Vent (stock is a tiny, 28mm)
This is a purely violent combo, I have it in testing right now, it really works, but won't make power past 6K, you can run single springs, but duals are needed for more than 6K with this cam..
</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Jake, I have almost the same setup==
118/119 cam (a little tamer)
42x37.5 valves dual springs (Level 6 AJ Sims)
SuperSquish pistons (compression ratio to be around the same, possibly more)
Also will be running a super tight deck
Vacuum advance dizzy (may run a Mallory) with CD ignition
Question regarding exhuast....merged or regular...size? 1 5/8? Will be using J tubes.
How's this sound? Good bad indifferent? Just want a strong torquey street engine, hopefully would break into the 14's (will take it to the track to have fun and see what it'll do, not really for competition) Thanx!
-ANT