100 Cubic Inches of Fury!

[woodsbuggy1]

You are really making me think about putting the 1776 with a TD04 13T in the street buggy and having some fun!
Kenric

[Chip Birks]

Could be lots of fun!

[woodsbuggy1]

You are a terrible influence, the kind of people that my parents warned me about. But now I have the disease too.
Kenric

[Chip Birks]

Made some progress on the mouse this weekend. Still have a little more fab work to do before the big engine can come out, but I just didn't really want to weld yesterday for some reason. I've spent a lot of time with the mask on creating awesome, that I just needed a break. So instead I set out to clean up the garage a bit. Fortunately I wanted to do that even less than welding, so that didn't last long, I ended up pulling out some of my new measuring equipment and began checking bearing clearances on my 69mm CW wedgemated crank, as well as my CB H-Beam rods. Everything looks good, so I figured I might as well start building the little guy. As of right now, the crank is hanging on a stand, 4 rods bolted on, new cam gear is in place, its more or less ready to be dropped into the case half once its decked. I checked and setup my cam bearings, they needed some work, the thrust bearings were on the tight side to start but fit nicely now. I checked cam to lifter clearance, all looked nice.

I got in my new 87mm cylinders, I haven't even opened the box for those yet though, I've been debating on what to do for pistons since I started this thread, I've had a set of good used Mahle or Cimas floating around for 7 years, needed cylinders and rings, but the pistons were decent. I've been very undecided as to how I would go. I fully recognize that this engine will be seeing a lot of boost, and in order to make the power I want, I assume its gonna take some rpm. I am nervous putting that kind of stress on a set of old, low performance pistons. I know its been done. Niklas and Kalle have both pulled it off, but Niklas also cut a brand new engine in half when a wrist pin tore out and let the rod choose where it wanted to go. Rods don't make great choices. After weighing the pros and cons of the standard set I started looking into a different option. JE Pistons have a good reputation, they'll also make whatever you want. So after a few emails back and forth, we have come to a solution that has be excited to get building this little guy. I'm confident in the bottom end now to take it to the rpm and boost levels needed to make the hp to achieve my goals. I was told I could be up to a month away from having the beautiful new forgings in my hands. That should give me plenty of time to get everything else ready.

[Clonebug]

What...pray tell.....did those little emails end up costing you?????

[Chip Birks]

What...pray tell.....did those little emails end up costing you?????

Suffice it to say, i could buy more than a couple sets of AAs with cylinders for what I paid for 4 pistons and rings. Good insurance though.

[buguy]

There are no off the shelf forged pistons that would do?
(keep in mind I know zero about building a vw engine)

[Chip Birks]

Looks like there are some options out there. A quick search on ebay shows that there is a piston made for the Nissan Silvia that would probably do the trick, but, they also have huge funky valve reliefs on the top, and I don't know that the compression height is anywhere close to what I want. I am going to run a strange compression height on this little guy. Allows me to run a long rod and keep the engine narrow.

[woodsbuggy1]

Forget about cheap if you plan on having a boosted motor that will last. It is much less expensive to use high quality parts the first time than to build it twice.
Kenric

[Chip Birks]

Forget about cheap if you plan on having a boosted motor that will last. It is much less expensive to use high quality parts the first time than to build it twice.
Kenric

I definitely agree. Cry once.

[Clonebug]

Forget about cheap if you plan on having a boosted motor that will last. It is much less expensive to use high quality parts the first time than to build it twice.
Kenric

I beg to differ.......
Don't forget that a mouse motor is also supposed to be all about the hp/$ factor.....Don't make it too expensive to blow up......

[Chip Birks]

Forget about cheap if you plan on having a boosted motor that will last. It is much less expensive to use high quality parts the first time than to build it twice.
Kenric

I beg to differ.......
Don't forget that a mouse motor is also supposed to be all about the hp/$ factor.....Don't make it too expensive to blow up......

Good point as well Art. Honestly, the pistons/cylinders, rods, rods, cam/lifters and pushrods will be the only new stuff in the engine. The case is an old used one I saved from death, the crank is an old race crank on a fresh grind, heck even the crank bearings are a good used set I had laying around, only used to break in a new cam in my big engine back when it was a baby stroker setup. The heads are a set the were rebuilt by Brothers before I bought them. They have monster CB650 springs and TI retainers, but are otherwise super mild. I think total out of pocket on this one will be about $1500 or so. Not bad for a long block that should hopefully make well over 300whp.

[66brm]

What cam have you chosen?

[Chip Birks]

I called Jason Lauffer up at Paradise Motorsports and told him I wanted to make a nearly stock headed 1600 make 350whp and was willing to give it the rpm it wanted in order to make the power, he said okay, I'm going to send you this cam. Its one of their own grinds, I can give you a part number later if it helps. It has plenty of lift and plenty of duration, which is pretty on par with their stuff from what I've seen. I have no doubt it'll work good.

[buguy]

Those folks seem to know what their doing!