1600 turbo build thread

[buguy]

Dang. Started tearing the bug down. That little T3 still has a 2 1/4" inlet. The TD04 should be waaaay better! Making A draw through intake might be a challenge only being 1 1/2" intake. Guess my old pipe style isn't going to work anymore. When I made that my idea was to try to make it as small as possible so there wasn't as much volume. Think that's necessary? I notice most draw through setups have more of a sheet metal rectangular shape and must have much more volume than the one I made. I wonder if it makes much difference?

[Clonebug]

The outside diameter of the TD4L-13T is 2 1/16th inches or should be. The inside would be 1 5/8th inches.

You should be able to just find a reducing coupler to use your same intake. either that or find a coupler that fits and reduce the size of your intake to be a straight coupler.

That intake also looks like it's made of really thin metal.
You should have a flange at least a 1/4 inch thick but 3/8ths to 1/2 inch would be better so it won't warp and cause a vacuum leak.

[buguy]

Yes it definitely is too thin of a flange. I have to use gasket maker on it to get it to seal. That's why I'm not too beat up on making a new one. When I made that one I couldn't find a flange and no where around me sold metal suitable for that. I think I'm just going to build the next one out of aluminum. I already have some 1/8" sheet, so I just need to buy a 3/8" piece to make the base flange with. Problem is once I buy all the material to build it, I'm not too far off from a pro made one. All the ones I see for sale on websites are for a 3"inlet. I think that's just too far to reduce it.

[buguy]

Good lord! Remind me not to ever do that again. I got some 3/8" plate and made a new carb flange. What a pain in the ass. I think I will plunk down the $25-$30 for one already made next time.

[buguy]

Couple more hours with the die grinder to get it close enough. But now I have a nice sturdy intake. I will have to put it to the belt sander Monday. The belt is worn out and after already being at work for 15 hours I had enough.

[buguy]

Oh yeah. I thought I would mention too. I welded up this" exhaust" and it kept wanting to rust up. So I shined it up with some 0000 steel wool and sprayed a couple coats of clear on it. I will have to redo this once I get the other turbo on it anyway but I wanted to see how it holds up to a little heat.

[buguy]

After making that freekin carb flange I just found and bought inlet and outlet flanges for the Subaru turbo on ebay. $28 with free shipping. I can live with that. I don't want to have to make those damn things too!

[rubenski]

Can you give me that link?

Theyre on my wish list too

[Clonebug]

Is that the new turbo in those pics????

That does not look like a TD04L-13T to me......at least not one off a Subaru.

[rubenski]

Now that you point that out, indeed.

Here is my td04l-13t

[buguy]

No that's the T3. I haven't put the TD04 on yet.
The item number for the flanges is 252051138861

[Clonebug]

The 14412AA560 is the determining number. It is not a WRX turbo.

The WRX turbo is 14412AA360.

I think I mentioned this earlier in the thread but it is pretty close to the same as my turbo.

I'll be watching to see how it handles a drawthrough situation.

[buguy]

I'm not 100% sure I will be doing drawthrough. I'm thinking about trying to blow through the new Holley. Just not sure I want to bother with the fab work since I am going to start building for megasquirt.
The turbo I have is the 360.

[Clonebug]

The turbo I have is the 360.

Look at your pic.......it says 560.

Unless that isn't the turbo you are going to run.

[Clonebug]

I stand corrected.......It is still from a WRX but a different year than the ones I have.
One difference is the compressor outlet snout is longer on your turbo than on mine.
I also found some info that says the compressor inlet is shaped slightly different than the 360 turbo.

It's close enough that it should perform well on a 1600 but it might spool high boost just slightly later than my 1679.