Rear Brake Calipers

[H2OSB]

Quick question. I am installing rear disc brakes on my son's 1303. They consist of 914 rear rotors with VW Golf IV calipers. Stock VW brake pipes will not attach directly to the calipers because all older VWs use 10mm X 1mm thread pitch and my Golf calipers use 12mm X 1mm thread pitch. That said, I bought a pair of Brakequip adapters, which work perfectly. What I NEED to know, is should I permanently attach the adapters to the calipers (via red loctite) or should I put something like teflon tape on the threads and just wrench them in?

Thanks in advance
johnL (aka H2OSB)
www.superbeetlesonly.com

[Marc]

Do the adapters look as though they rely upon the threads to effect the seal? If not I'd just assemble with clean/dry threads. I thought the adapters were designed to seal the same way the original lines did. http://www.threadtoolsupply.com/assets/ ... -table.jpg

[H2OSB]

Honestly, I wouldn't be able to tell. What do I look for to know?

johnL

[Marc]

You got the BQ43 adapters, right? They're supposed to look like "Seat X" in the diagram linked above...the male end should achieve the seal in the caliper.

[H2OSB]

Indeed, I did buy those exact ones. So run them in and snug them up, eh? I was only thinking of loctite so there would only be one movable part. Thank for the help

johnL

[Marc]

You could make a case for Loctiting them, but then it'd take heat to get them out (otherwise the brass might just twist off). Personally I'd rather avoid any chance of that happening, but if there was any sign of leakage the Loctite would be the way to go IMO. Teflon tape? Naah.

[Piledriver]

I just used the factory Jetta front flex lines and added a second mount with a short steel line to couple.
The factory setup can use a banjo bolt or straight in line.(bubble flare)

I think mine were 10mm x1.0 tho? (Off an Audi Cabriolet, but look exactly the same as std Mk4 setup)

To use the T1 parking brake cable, I welded a 14mm 1/2" socket from Oreillys on as the seat for the sheath.
(It was the perfect size and a darn lot easier to buy two and weld on than fabricating something else that size)

I ran everything over the top. Harder to bleed, but nothing to snag. Calipers may have been reversed, it has fitting/bleeder in the right places to use as L or R.

[H2OSB]

I recall seeing the thing about using a socket for the T1 cable spacer. Should known it was you.

I wasn't surprised to find the hole in the caliper to be 12x1. You lucked out, however. I think VW went back and forth on the size. The guy, Gerrelt, who's rear brake write up inspired my brake conversion for my son's car, never mentioned needing adapters for his conversion.

The thing that amazed me was the front brake calipers I'm using, from BMW 320i, ALSO have 10x1 threads.

For the flexible hoses, I'm going to buy the f/r set made by Topline. It replaces the flex line and short hard line with a long stainless line.

[kangaboy]

Quick question. I am installing rear disc brakes on my son's 1303. They consist of 914 rear rotors with VW Golf IV calipers.

...what about hubs. I was looking to do the same conversion on my buggy currently equipped with wide five drums. I saw the 914 rotors online...but noticed they wouldn't work without a wheel hub.

[Piledriver]

T3 wheel hubs... 914 rotor is too small OD for wide 5, requires an adapter.
You can buy the whole setup from CB etc ready to bolt on.
If you wanted to go 5x130 CB sells that setup too.

[H2OSB]

I used a set of type 3 hubs. I had to have a machinist buddy of mine turn them down slightly to fit inside the 914 rotors. That said, eventually I abandoned that set up in favor of a typical CBPerformance F/R disc brake set up. For no other reason that getting the car on the road as quickly as possible. Nothing at all wrong with that rear set up. many have used it successfully. My hold up was in the front, and I didn't want to use more powerful brakes on the rear for fear of early rear lock ups (this car was/is for my relatively inexperienced, new driver son. Safety first!).

A turned down type 1 rear drum works equally well. It looks nearly identical to a T3 hub. I got my original inspiration for the conversion from a guy named Gerrelt out of the NL, I believe. He used a turned down T1 drum -> hub for his conversion.

H2OSB

EDIT: LOL, what Pile said

[gtmdriver]

If you use standard Loctite Nut Lock it will seal the threads no problem but you will still be able to remove them with spanners if you ever need to.

[kangaboy]

T3 wheel hubs... 914 rotor is too small OD for wide 5, requires an adapter.
You can buy the whole setup from CB etc ready to bolt on.
If you wanted to go 5x130 CB sells that setup too.

I want to go the cheap/junkyard route on this one, as it a buggy that we only get about 15 hours of use a year on. I believe I have the ability to turn down the drums that are on there now (wide fives), if that is what you all are referring to, to give me a wide five hub.
Then I can purchase a pair of these,
http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/4607.htm
Then fab up a caliper bracket to house the golf caliper.
Yay or nay? And if nay, gimme some feedback.

[Piledriver]

Thats looks like ~same as they use on the 5x130 aluminum hubs.
If you look at their actual wide 5 brake setup you will see all the missing parts.

[H2OSB]

I was unaware there were any "fit over" rotors for the 205mm bolt circle. That's the way to go.

H2OSB