Tim's Green Bug...

[dustymojave]

How about an under bar to connect from the beam to the bottom of the A-pillar to the B-pillar to the torsion housing????? Kinda like my under bar from the B-pillar to the torsion. Gonna use TOS for hosting the pic.


If you need, I can talk you through the rest of doing this job I'm recommending.

[TimS]

Thanks dusty. I opened up a window through the body from the b pillar to torsion, so at this point it would be easier to just go a direct route. Your method is effective and I should have done that four years ago.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Tim, sorry to butt in again but did you, or are you going to put a doubler around that "window"? It would be especially good if you have square corners on the "window".

One of the reasons I was talking about on the thick walled body lift. The lift could be attached to the torsion bar then the cage down bars could be attached to it (with some thought of course.

[bajaherbie]

I think the window is to allow the tubing to go from the b pillar of the cage directly to the torsion housing...

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[Ol'fogasaurus]

I think the window is to allow the tubing to go from the b pillar of the cage directly to the torsion housing...

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Herb, I was sure that is what he was trying to do but there are at least two ways around it. One is what I was talking about using the addition of a thicker material than the commercial body lifts. The best way I am not sure but it also fixes some other problems that he may or may not be interested in.

The other way I know of is to put a stub on the torsion tube and is connected up against the body of the car then the down bars from the B-pillar are connect to it. You have to be careful to match the angles. Also, the two plates, one on each side of the body metal, should not be the same four side dimensions as with them being the same size/dimensions can also cause body material to deteriorate because of stress failure; kind of like bending a piece of flat material back and forth until it fractures/breaks. We've all done this as kids.

I've said this before, the square corners on a hole are invitation to stress cracks. I've posted the stuff on the BOAC airplane design where square windows causing stress cracks became so very important but only after a bunch of deaths happened. Granted this was an airplane but stress cracks work on the ground too.

Even if you cut a rounded hole but don't support it with doublers that material that was removed was a structural portion of the material from where it was removed.

Remember we are talking about some very old (now) metal being abused and we are talking about a unibody vehicle that has the body bolted to the pan instead of the body and the pan spot welded together; its all structure and load bearing.

[TimS]

So you are saying I should spot weld the pan and the body together? That sounds good.

We will see what happens. I will either make it work or recognize it's demise and just invest the time on my daughter's car.

T minus 11 days till d day.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

"... So you are saying I should spot weld the pan and the body together? That sounds good. "

(giggle, giggle) No, but it might be a good idea; I haven't given the idea much more than incidental thought so I am not sure about that. When dealing with glass buggies that isn't a fix available .

It might stop some other problems such as bolts loosening up and rust problems though but again, maybe not either. Mr. Porsche wasn't the first it was the 1922 Lancia Lambda (http://www.curbsideclassic.com/automoti ... odern-car/). The Germans were well a head of the rest of the world in working metal; take the German military helmet used in WWI and WWII and compare it to the English and American "pop tops" of the same era. They were able to do (what turned out to be 2-step forming as I remember) "deep draw forming" well ahead of the rest of the world. I've mentioned spherical radius several times before quite a few times but I am not too sure if I talked about "radius tear out" during deep draw forming or even shallow three wall joins such as the rear of the pan... but I digress.

I forgot to mention that instead of doublers supporting a hole you can also flange the hole for additional strength instead. It works similar to bead forming for flat metal. There are hole flanging kits available ($$$ https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=ho ... &FORM=IGRE for example) that allow you to use a male and female draw-through kit using a supplied bolt. I have seen them in use (video/film) so I know they work on thinner materials but I don't know of any oval shaped hole available (see below) and material thickness limitations. Lightening holes, in thicker material, would be a similar but not the same for example but in thinner materials the length of the strengthening flange beyond the hole's radius is important.

There is a "standard" for the flanged slots but it has been so long since I designed to one I forget where the standard(s) are as far as a fed standard goes(https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=sl ... &FORM=VDRE for instance). Close hammer and dolly work might work if done incrementally and slowly but there has to be a size limitations also.

As I said, working metal is comparatively easy, working it correctly can be very time consuming even if you know the rules. One of the reasons I try to interject some of what I learned from when I was designing/drafting parts that required forming... I had to be taught or learn how to research the rules also... kind of like potty training .

[Leatherneck]

CWB, how far does this stick have to go. I am wondering if they will accept the turbo.

Tim, what is your long term fix going to be. I know your not a bubble gum and bandaid fix guy.

[TimS]

A car that is used is a series of Band-Aids until the needed Band-Aids become more valuable than the car at which point it becomes parts. Any other dream of an everlasting car, to me, is just a falsehood... Or a show car.

This car will live to see another trail. I got a plan of sorts to add about 35-50lbs and subtract about 12-15 lbs.

[TimS]

I have a type III rear end if I need it.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I have a type III rear end if I need it.

I'm not sure what you mean here .

Sorry about the verbage!

[TimS]

I mean that anything is possible at this point. If I have to cut out the entire rear end and replace it, I have the means.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Makes sense!

[dustymojave]

VW Type III cars have a separate bolt-in rear torsion housing. That's what he was referring to Lee.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

VW Type III cars have a separate bolt-in rear torsion housing. That's what he was referring to Lee.

Thanks for the clarification Dusty, interesting, never really been around one.

How it is bolted in; center only, how are the end of the torsion connected? It sounds like it might make an interesting swap.