36mm axle nuts stuck...

[UnlimitedEditions]

Hi there,

has anyone used a torque converter for this job?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Drive-Torqu ... SwMgdXxvxK

I know there is a 'mr torque tool but is double the price:https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Shop_b ... 19.50.html

already snapped my breaker bar and plus if i wanted to jump up and down a bouncy castle might be a cheaper option

interested to see what you guys think,
or if you've had experience with the first tool?

Matt

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Using a 3/4" or larger bar is much better then anything smaller. No matter who's tool you use the pivot pins in the 1/2" and smaller bars just aren't up to the loads that sometimes you need on those obstinate nuts. I've broken a couple of 1/2"ers myself.

Also, whacking away at the impact style of tool you can buy usually does not work as the load you are putting on it is transitory or just an immediate shock (which sometimes does work but not that often). Impact tools can work but up to a certain point and depending on the quality of the electric or air tool.

Applying heat usually can work but on the nut only, you want the nut to expand not the stub axle not the stub axle also' nor do you want the structure of the nut to be compromised. The problem here is how do you cool the axle and heat the nut at the same time.

WD40 is supposed to be making some spray juice that is supposed to help in this kind of "frozen" fastener situation. I have never tried it myself but supposing to "paid supposed mechanics" it is supposed to work. Spray, let sit then apply pressure.

Also remember, there is a point where loading of the nut exceeds the structural abilities of the fastener/stub axle and then... "AW $#it"!

[sideshow]

3/4" drive breaker bar and socket is the first tool I would get. Harbor freight grade is OK.

That cheaper of the two tools does work well, especially handy for engine tear downs, or end play setting with out the hassle of bracing a short block.

Also consider splitting that nut if it attempts to take any of the stub axle threads with it.

[Bruce.m]

Sometimes there is no other option. However I don't recommend drilling the nut as it's too easy to go off line and destroy the stub threads. Take an angle grinder and cut one face thin, down to the drum. A couple of taps with a chisel will remove one tooth of the castle nut. Once you have thinned the side enough, you can put the socket back on and the nut will open up under pressure.

[Marc]

If you don't have an air impact gun, this tool will work nearly every time. Best to have a helper to keep tension on it with a ½" flex handle while you whack the tool with a sledge. If the rim is one you care about you'll want to change to one that you don't, since it's almost certain you'll hit it too in the process.
The argument against the "bang wrench" is that it can cause brinelling damage to the wheel bearing, and that is a valid concern (although I've never had it happen personally). Not much you can do to lessen the chances of that besides adjusting the brake shoes up as tight as you can or having a third helper big-leg the brake pedal as you work. http://www.jbugs.com/product/5748.html

[SCOTTRODS]

Leverage is King on all of these sized nuts. I have run leverage against 1" impact and leverage still wins in all cases. The Torque multiplier is a great tool if you have multiple people to help also... all of them I have used require some pretty major steadying of the tool to the leverage being applied. I have used them up to 900 ft. lbs. on aircraft related stuff and let me tell ya... It's still a lot of work for 4 people to hold a landing gear leg, the tool and apply the leverage.

In my best knowledge of the huge applications of torque tools for any specific job, the Torquemeister tool ( VW Tool )built to remove the VW axle nut and Flywheel nut, is a SUPER investment, as it actually uses the part against itself better than any tool I have tried.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

http://www.jbugs.com/product/5748.html

This is the same tool I was talking about and it still was stymied. I used it, and whacked at it, while at the same time loading it with the 1/2" power handle and broke the pivot pin in the power handle. I think I finally got the off with a air impact wrench set to the highest power setting. I also have twisted off the threaded part of the stub axle putting too much power to the assembly.

[Jim Ed]

To remove my big rear axle nuts, I usually use:
¾ inch slide bar and cheater bar and 36 MM socket.

Torque meister tool
Helping hand tool
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... 26-000-145
http://vw-resource.com/rearbrak.html

Do not use a tool like this;
http://www.jbugs.com/product/5748.html
beating on this tool with a big hammer can damage the rear wheel bearings.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

When an axle nut is stuck/jammed especially like this one is, unless you have real good brakes, the car could be induced to move on you... not safe! If you put the car in gear you to hold it then you can/ can also put the drive train components in jeopardy... not good!

http://www.mooreparts.com/classic-volks ... oval-tool/

This is an old tool design, which I have used many times, and it does work... up to a point (never seen or heard of one failing before). In my opinion it is safer than breaking the axle nut while the car is on the ground; I have tried that method while dealing with a stuck nut or torqueing a nut before. When you put it on the brake drum using the lug nuts; and doing it correctly; e.g., pointed in the correct direction (it is good for both 4 and 5 lug drums) you are using both it and the weight of the car to your advantage while you try to remove or torquing the )(&*^%*$*&^%(*&^ axle nut on/off the car's axle/stub axle.

I have seen guys using a 4' pipe slid onto a HD breaker bar and even longer pieces of pipe with several guys putting their weight on it. I have seen a breaker bar slid into the hole on the unit that is designed to be whacked on and the unit was whacked on with loading applied to and via the breaker bar. When the nut finally releases or something breaks then there is a lot of embarrasses faces as they get back off the ground. .

[SCOTTRODS]

I have my own Bolt on Piece like that... I made it out of Angle iron (Thick stuff) years ago. That coupled with a Cheater bar and a Bathroom Scale was how I torqued them back on for years...

[UnlimitedEditions]

I went for this in the end:


Haven't tried it yet but I'll let you know how it goes.

It is a proper hench tool, but it easily got the job done!
needed and axel stand to brace it on though, the force will bend the wheel studs! (talking from experience )