New guy, new build

[chriswillrise]

I received my wiring harness, coil, and MAT sensor today. For running ignition only, I only need a MAT sensor and crank sensor right? Since MAP is on the ms2

[Clonebug]

You just need a vacuum boost source for the map sensor on the ECU.

A 3/16ths vac hose will work fine.

You could probably do without the MAT sensor too since you are draw through but it is nice to be able to log it to see how warm the IAT's get.

You can always activate the boost retard function with it based on MAT rise.

[chriswillrise]

You just need a vacuum boost source for the map sensor on the ECU.

A 3/16ths vac hose will work fine.

You could probably do without the MAT sensor too since you are draw through but it is nice to be able to log it to see how warm the IAT's get.

You can always activate the boost retard function with it based on MAT rise.

yeah mario said a MAT sensor was a good idea so i got a GM open element one, hopefully they can be exposed to gas/ methenol

[Clonebug]

Mine is in the intake just to one side of the Tee. It is exposed to the Meth/water.

I did have one puke it's guts out and quit working but I didn't see any harm to the engine if it ingested the filament.

[chriswillrise]

So i want to start piecing together stuff for FI. Il probably be using me header for while so i just want a single throttle body i can put in line with the outlet of the turbo and the t pipe. What size you you guys recommend, i see a bunch of no name 50mm throttle bodies on ebay for pretty cheap

[Chip Birks]

Mine is about 50mm. Works fine for me.

[chriswillrise]

just got the last piece of the puzzle today! Crank trigger wheel kit from mario. Time to start figuring out this wiring nightmare and hope my ms2 works

Does anyone other than CB make end casting made for FI? It seems a little steep at 280 bucks for a set of FI end castings

[Piledriver]

Those are probably the new big bore version...
You can still get weld-in bungs for injectors, getting some stockers drilled and professionally welded will run a lot less...

search for weld aluminum injector bungs

[chriswillrise]

Those are probably the new big bore version...
You can still get weld-in bungs for injectors, getting some stockers drilled and professionally welded will run a lot less...

search for weld aluminum injector bungs

something like this?

[Piledriver]

Exactly.

The hard part is aiming them all correctly, making jigs even of wood can get this done.
That can be made on a borrowed Mexi manifold end pair, or German for that matter.
(German EFI as pattern probably easier as the injector sizes match as far as the holes)

There's probably a bit of business out there for pre-done T1 manifold end for EFI conversions at sane prices...
Hmm...

Anyone know a source where stock ~71-74 manifold ends can be had cheap?
...or even just installing properly aimed injector bungs in Weber manifolds. (same jig)
I gotta justify the Synchro 250 eventually.

[chriswillrise]

Exactly.

The hard part is aiming them all correctly, making jigs even of wood can get this done.
That can be made on a borrowed Mexi manifold end pair, or German for that matter.
(German EFI as pattern probably easier as the injector sizes match as far as the holes)

well if i buy the fuel rail im going to use that would probably help whoever is going to be doing my fabing i would think. Probably just going to buy CB fuel rails

[Clonebug]

Mario was messing with the stock manifolds and injector bungs.....You could PM him and see if he has an option.

[chriswillrise]

Mario was messing with the stock manifolds and injector bungs.....You could PM him and see if he has an option.

Ill message him now

[chriswillrise]

Mario was messing with the stock manifolds and injector bungs.....You could PM him and see if he has an option.

mario said it was well over 280 bucks in labor :/

[Piledriver]

Send me a pair of manifold ends and the bungs. I have some T1 heads and T3 manifolds for the aim somewhere around here, I'll make the jigs and do them for you, if only to see how long it really takes.

I have a nice Miller Synchro 250 for welding aluminum...
I'll even weld in some rail mount points if you know where they need to be/what rails you are going to run.

Would prefer them already bead blasted so I just have to bake and degrease them.
(baking drives the oil out, cast aluminum is usually porous)

Buy me an extra set of bungs for my use as payment, I'll stick them in some Weber manifolds I may use..

PM me for the address.