Sand Rail Ignition Wiring, is this correct??

[padooa]

Hello All,

So I am trying to find out if my ignition wiring is correct??

I two on off toggle switches (just because) that in series go to a push button start.
So I will explain what I have once both toggles are on in order to start the engine.

Lets pretend there are no toggle switches, so they don't confuse anything

Push Button Start has two sides:
Wired to side One:
Starter Solenoid Prong
Wired to side two:
Oil Pressure Light
Alt D+ Light
Coil + (Distributor Drop In Red)
Starter + Post (Battery and Alt B+)
Push Button: Idiot Lights work as they should and engine turns over and starts as it should

Problem: Coil gets so hot I can't even touch it
I believe I have fried at least one Distributor Drop In)

This is why I ask if the Ignition is wired Correct?

Thank you in Advance

Bradley

[Ol'fogasaurus]

A little confused as to things you described but what coil are you using? Some require dropping resistors some don't. The Bosch blue coils can be had both ways so be sure.

[padooa]

I kinda figured it would look confusing.
Literally, all the stuff is to Side 2 of push start button.
I ( ) is what else goes to that specific item.

I have used a compufire coil and then a MSR Coil.

Thanks,

Bradley

[Marc]

I'll assume that the toggle(s) you've omitted from the description for "clarity" (guess what? It didn't help) is/are capable of interrupting power to the coil so it's not sitting there with power to it 24/7 when the engine is off.
Regardless of how the ignition switch is wired, the voltage coming out of it can't exceed the supply voltage. A coil can get quite hot if power is applied with the engine off and the points closed, but in operation it should only be "warm".

As Lee said, coils are designed to operate at a specific input voltage. Some, like a stock ACVW coil and most Bosch "Blue" coils, are supplied with full system voltage. But most other applications call for the use of a "ballast" resistor in line with the coil to limit the current flow through it - this not only protects the coil from damage, but also the points or pickup unit. The impedance (resistance) of the primary winding or primary winding plus ballast resistor needs to be appropriate for whatever triggering system the distributor uses, and whether it's a CDI system or not...one should always follow the manufacturers' recommendations.

I've never heard of an "MSR" coil, but MSD "Blaster" coils used in a non-CDI "points" system are supposed to have a ballast resistor rated at 0.8Ω. Most stock American cars use a resistor somewhere around 1.2Ω.

Disconnect the wires from the coil and use an ohmmeter across the + and - terminals; if it's in the range of 3 to 3.3Ω the coil has sufficient internal resistance that an external ballast resistor should not be needed...but if you find that it's less, like <2Ω, it was intended to have one.

[Dale M.]

Here is wiring diagrams, for most simple ignition (minimal ) system to get your buggy/rail too run...

With Generator.


With Alternator.


IF ignition coil is a 6 volt (without ballast resistir) and you running 12 volt system its going to get very hot... IF 12 volt system be sure coil is 12 volt model...

Also primatry side of coil should read about 3-4 ohms..



Dale

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Dale's wiring diagrams brings up something else. If you are running you rail on the sand or you are using the term "sand rail" as the for a tube frame buggy but not necessarly on the sand I reccomend wiring a bit differently each way.

On the sand, I personally isolate each circut so if one circut has problems the "run" circut, unless it is the problem, will get you "back to camp". On my buggy i use heat reset CBs and run both switched circuits and hot circuits. I also add CBs the the alt line and the line to the ignition as VW didn't. I also run a minimum number of circuits rather than a full set (obviously not needed but i have seen more wiring than needed also) of circuits.

On the street or trail the need is more normal but keep the protection.