EJ20G into 67 Bug

[surfbeetle]

This weekend I took the throttle linkage off of an old solex carb that I had laying around and then took off the half circle cable connector from the subaru throttle body. I cut off the extra junk from the solex lever so all I had left was the squared off shaft hole and the stock VW hole for the throttle cable. I then welded the VW lever to the Subaru piece, drilled out the center of the VW squared off hold so it now matched with the subaru hole. After installing this onto the subaru throttle body, I could connect the vw throttle cable to pull over the top on the linkage from the subaru throttle body. I have to buy a new cable tube that goes from the pan by the end of the frame horns up to the engine. My initial tests showed that I almost get full throttle, but this could change once I install the cable tube. At that point, I may have to adjust the cable at the pedal end to give it just a bit more pull.

[itawolf]

Craig
Glad to see this build still going bro
Gj

[surfbeetle]

Craig
Glad to see this build still going bro
Gj

Thanks. Today, I was cleaning the garage a bit, rolled the car down the driveway and when I went to put it back in the driveway, it wouldn't start... I checked the tank and it was dry. I guess it's kinda hard to start a car without gas. It's always fun pushing the car up the driveway. I realized today that I need to mount my heater in the car before I get the exhaust made so that they don't run it where I want the heater.

[surfbeetle]

I put some gas in it, fired it up and let it run. It started to get too hot. I don't have a temp gauge attached yet but since I'm using a Link ECU, I turned on one of my laptops and sure enough, it was 230 degrees. Ouch, that was too hot so I let it cool for a while. Then I raised the front up thinking that there may be too much air in the hoses. When I removed the radiator cap, I was getting hot water up front at the radiator. It seems that the thermostat was stuck. I do have the heater circuit looped with a single hose so that's not the issue. Considering how long the engine sat, and that I don't know the history, I'm just going to get another thermostat.
Here's the video I shot today. It's not smoking anymore like it did on the first start video. I still need to get an exhaust and the turbo hooked into the intercooler.

Also, more importantly, I started fabbing up a motor mount from the VW body to the factory subaru mounts. I need to know the spec of the nuts that I need to use on the factory motor mount. Anyone know the size, pitch, etc of the nuts I need?
Thanks

[dlamyle]

I need to know the spec of the nuts that I need to use on the factory motor mount. Anyone know the size, pitch, etc of the nuts I need?
Thanks

Should be the same as the 14mm exhaust manifold stud nuts. 10x1.25

[surfbeetle]

Thank you dlamyle, you're correct. Before you replied I found the answer the engine mount nut size over on NASIOC. It's M10x1.25. Found some at the local hardware store. NASIOC has a post that has all this type of info.
Thanks again
Craig

[surfbeetle]

Worked on the car all day Saturday. I changed the thermostat and found that there was no water (I'm using distilled water while I sort things out) in the heater circuit and none in the return line from the radiator. I went ahead and mounted my heater and installed the throttle cable sleeve. Here's the pictures.

Throttle Cable Linkage

throttlelinkage.jpg

Throttle Cable sleeve and bracket I made for it

throttlecable.jpg

Here's a side shot of the heater

heaterside.jpg

And here's a shot of the front of the heater where the outlets are. I have to get a three inch hose for the heater and connect it to the two and one half inch heater inlets on the car. This heater is a simple pass through with a fan. Also I added a VDO temp sender to connect up to my temp gauge.

heaterfront.jpg

Here's the VDO Sender

h2otempsensor.jpg

[GS guy]

Hey Surf - looking good!
I found (wow, think it was decades ago!) that standard copper plumbing elbows were a perfect fit for the OEM VW heater connector hoses - the ones that went from heater boxes to chassis. IIRC, those hoses used silicone sleeves between actual hose and the metal fitting on the chassis and heater boxes. The copper elbows fit into those sleeves perfectly. Might help fitting in that new heater?
Might want to put some kind of filter on the inlet side? Or duct to the cabin for cleaner air - and less fumes.
Jeff

[surfbeetle]

Thanks Jeff. The heater itself has 3" openings and the car has 2.5" inlets, so I'll have to sort that out eventually, maybe I can find a 3 to 2.5 inch reducer at the hardware store. At this point, I just wanted to bleed the system with only water to get an idea how it will do. Then I plan to drain and refill with coolant. The nice thing about the heater is that once the heater is warm, I can at least see that water is going through it. I was using the vdo sender as a sort of a bleeder. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to duct the fresh air. The blower motor is removable on the heater case. I have it upside down from it's original mounting. I was thinking that I could make a duct up to the cover above it and mount the fan inside the car. Since I have never had a working heater in this car in the 30 years I have owned it, any heat will be better than what I had.

[GS guy]

Vintage Air has those adapters (if you can't source elsewhere). Check the .pdf page, then google the PN's - usually sold elsewhere, Summit and even Amazon.
http://www.vintageair.com/2015%20Catalo ... g%2057.pdf

I tried to use an oil cooler as a "heater" those decades ago, mounted below the parcel shelf in a box, with blower fan above on the rear shelf under the rear window. Box was ducted to the chassis heater inlets. Worked great - when it was warm out! Never really got the oil hot enough when I really needed the heater/defrost to work in cold weather. Live and learn....
Jeff

[surfbeetle]

Thanks for the info on Vintage Air. I'll definitely check that out. They look to have exactly what I need for the heater.

[surfbeetle]

I finished up a motor mount today. Just a square tube going across from one side to the other and attached to the motor mounts. I was running the engine to see if the thermostat that I installed last week was going to open. I still have some coolant issues. Once the engine temp got up to about 200 degrees F, the stock coolant tank started to leak from the seam where the top attaches to the bottom of the tank. Also, I have a spot on the return hose where it runs over the right side rear axle that probably needs to have a way to bleed it. I'm considering getting one of those power fillers so I can force the coolant in. Anyone have any thoughts on having a coolant tank up front at the radiator and then another at the rear?

[883]

Anyone have any thoughts on having a coolant tank up front at the radiator and then another at the rear?

I don't think it would hurt anything. The trick would be having perfectly matched pressure reliefs at both tanks, otherwise only the one with the lower bleed off pressure would do any work.

[jhoefer]

I finished up a motor mount today. Just a square tube going across from one side to the other and attached to the motor mounts. I was running the engine to see if the thermostat that I installed last week was going to open. I still have some coolant issues. Once the engine temp got up to about 200 degrees F, the stock coolant tank started to leak from the seam where the top attaches to the bottom of the tank. Also, I have a spot on the return hose where it runs over the right side rear axle that probably needs to have a way to bleed it. I'm considering getting one of those power fillers so I can force the coolant in. Anyone have any thoughts on having a coolant tank up front at the radiator and then another at the rear?

Since your radiator has a cap, just replace it with one that has a higher pressure rating than the cap on the engine's coolant reservoir. This will ensure the system is correctly purging to and drawing coolant from the overflow tank you should have connected to the engine's coolant reservoir. System pressure is the same on either end, so adding a second overflow tank up front is just adding additional complexity without any additional functionality. Obviously, you need to get the coolant reservoir fixed or replaced so it doesn't leak first.

If the system was bone dry, it's likely you have an air pocket stuck in the top of the engine. I found that taking the hoses off the heater core's bypass valve (and you must use a bypass valve, not a more common and cheaper shutoff valve) and using a funnel to fill both the supply and return hose to the engine with water helped to purge that bubble. The thermostat in a subaru engine only opens due to hot water from the heater circuit so an air bubble there will cause all sorts of grief (230 degree coolant temps but the radiator hose into the pump is cold). Also remember to keep your overflow tank filled so when the engine cools down it can suck additional coolant into the reservoir instead of sucking air. It will take multiple heat cycles before the coolant level in the overflow tank stabilizes and the system is finally purged.

[surfbeetle]

Okay, that makes perfect sense. Right now I have the heater circuit looped through my pass through heater. There is no bypass valve. I only have the inline VDO sender on the supply side to the heater. I had the sender out of the adapter so air could escape and know when there was water present. There's obviously still air in it.