Stock type 4 fi.i. with megasquirt

[scottdownsouth]

Just to update what I have.
Ms 2 with 3.0 board
Relay board
Wide band
Some rc sl4 550 injectors

[scottdownsouth]

I do believe I have almost everything except a fuel pressure regulator and the plugs for the stock injectors. Where can I find these type of plug? Is there anything I need to do to the MS 2 ? Right now I'd like to get the stock f. I. Working but may look in to sequential later.
Also does anyone know anything about the rc injectors?
Thanks again!

[Piledriver]

If you are looking for used ones you do not want the Djet connectors, the LJet and later are great.
(DJet pin/socket design was a first try, the design was later fixed)

Pretty common connector, but I suggest modern injectors, they have come a long way in the last 40+ years.

The original injectors were lowZ and need either the resistor pack or PWM current limiting, which the MS can do if built right.
Again, think "upgrade" the Vanagon injectors and many Volvo etc and even Japanese injectors were EV1s and will drop right in, are highZ and have far better spray patterns. (and aren't 45 years old)

If memory serves its called an EV1 connector, available with pigtails or with pins to crimp thyself.
You want the late style with the little exposed wire hoops you squeeze to release the lock.
The early style were a total PITA to deal with.

I strongly suggest getting a good ratcheting crimper and if you use pigtails or slice wires, get a box of 50 of the heat shrink/hot melt glue sealed butt splices and other connectors. I have a Paladin 8000 frame and a variety of die.
The 1300 frame is OK but sucks to use ergonomically IMHO, YMMV.

Best deal is to buy a combo frame with a die you will use, f-type or the uninsulated die are good choices.

I use the "uninsulated" die with the dimplers for the heat shrink sealed crimps, as they are too small OD for the "insulated" die, which expect much thicker plastic. (won't grab 20 ga wire in them otherwise)

The pins will require the right die: they are F types, GM Metripak IIRC are very similar.
Suggest a stand-lone crimper for those, they can be had pretty cheap, even the Delco one.

As to the regulator, the DJet regulator works awesome, they sell them with a vacuum port even at Jegs and Summit, MSD brand, is a Bosch DJet regulator right part# and all, can probably find them cheaper elsewhere. MSD Part# 2222.

If you don't want to pay the stupid tax you can buy them in a variety of port configuration from autohausaz for Mercedes/BMW etc without the vac port for far less, I personally don't use the vac reference, not really needed with reasonably sized injectors on a NA motor.

...or you can buy this one on ebay with free shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-914-4-F ... 51&vxp=mtr

[scottdownsouth]

Found this at autozone.GP Sorensen/Fuel Injector 800-1206N 31.99 seems to good to be true?

[Piledriver]

OK if you want re-manufactured injectors.

Early Ford units are the right size and drop right in, FWIW, although I'm sure you can find something with a better spray pattern. That body style is very common. Ideally you want a fine wide spray not a pencil stream.

You will have to Google for what you really need, I'm running 230cc Densos off a jet ski on my 1.8, about 24lb/hr depending on fuel pressure. You are probably good w/even higher flows as long as the spray pattern is good.
The really huge injectors are to be avoided due to idle quality issues. (low PW nonlinearity esp)

[scottdownsouth]

My eyes are hurting from Google. I thought those where new injectors with new disk type ends on them. Got my info off samba. Is there a. Easy way to fine injectors? Part numbers for the ones your using?

[Piledriver]

the brown inner injectors for an 08+ gsxr 600>1000 are the same.
The gray outers are 450cc, used at high rpm.

You can usually pick up a VERY low mile complete TB setup with a usable tps, external map sensor, and 8 injectors (gray outers/brown inners) for the price of an injector cleaning. Comes with free ITBs.

I got the wiring harness to go with it for $10 plus shipping, so 8 pigtails and a nice sealed fuse box etc.

You would have to adapt the fuel rail mounting setup from stock, but that's long been a solved engineering problem.

The stainless fuel rail for the Yamaha waverunner 1100 I cut in half and used, same spacing as stock T4, or close enough to fit/seal/aim w/o issues. They are true ITBs and only 60mm tall, flange mount.

[scottdownsouth]

Seriously considering going fuel and spark after much reading. My main goal was to keep it looking stock but the added benefits seems to offset that.

[Bsherrard]

Scott,
Know this is an old post but did you ever build your 912E with megasquirt? I am looking to build mine as a 2056 and could use any lessons learned /specs etc.