WBX 2.1 crank in T1 case options?

[sideshow]

Thanks for the tip RJ, make me wish I had an empty type-1 case.

Here is a nice main seal article, but only covering wasser cranks in wasser cases.
http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=535

[sideshow]

Well curiosity got the best of me, dug up some used main seals.

• 70 x 90 x 10 W Germany
  75 x 95 x 10 Victor Reinz Type-4 or Wasser dunno
  My “is it 200mm or not” bell housing go-no-go-gauge

Went to the local industrial bearing place with that rawhide number, no luck.

Wound up with a plausible 75 x 90 x 8 NAK double lipped but no directional grooves just to play with. I'm guessing that if I made a seal pressing tool (easier than hand hammering to a not on the step depth) this should work just fine.

[Steve Arndt]

Well curiosity got the best of me, dug up some used main seals.

• 70 x 90 x 10 W Germany
  75 x 95 x 10 Victor Reinz Type-4 or Wasser dunno
  My “is it 200mm or not” bell housing go-no-go-gauge

Went to the local industrial bearing place with that rawhide number, no luck.

Wound up with a plausible 75 x 90 x 8 NAK double lipped but no directional grooves just to play with. I'm guessing that if I made a seal pressing tool (easier than hand hammering to a not on the step depth) this should work just fine.

I don't recommend running that heavy of a flywheel. You could probably take some weight off the perimeter...

[sideshow]

Well lucky for me, not only does that keep crankshafts from falling over (think timing gear install) it can give me a sanity check on seal depth.

[Steve Arndt]

My T4 crankshaft assembly fixture is the made from the center of a flywheel and basically one of your "spokes". It clamps in a bench vice.

[Mertman]

I too am interested in doing this conversion as I already have a good 76mm crank, It still has the #1 bearing on the crank.

So as I understand it,

#1 bearing journal on the case is machined to accept the larger wbx 3 piece bearing

#2 #3 #4 bearings are the same as type one bearings, is that correct?

Then use a 200mm T4 flywheel to get me back into a beetle box or 115mm and use a bus clutch.

[Bruce.m]

Can't comment on the bearing question but when my brother's "Laurie Pettitt" engine kept leaking from the flywheel (worn seal surface) I sourced him a "conversion" seal (in Viton) with 5 min effort and combined it with the usual 200mm t4 flywheel

[Mertman]

Don't suppose you still have any part numbers or website links for the seal do you?

[Bruce.m]

SKF CR75x90x10HMS5V

Standard SKF metric radial seal in "Viton" (non brand equivalent) with a single lip seal. You could choose a double lip which helps keep the dust away from the sealing lip.

[Bruce.m]

Oh. The U.S. Part number is 563187 if that helps

[Bruce.m]

Ah, you're a Notts bloke. "Simply Bearings" will sort you out.

[Mertman]

Cheers for that, I'll look up simply bearings too!!

[Mertman]

So with this seal, I won't have to machine the case for the oil seal? Is that correct?

If so, can I not use a type 4 #1 main bearing, set the end float the same as type one with shims, fit seal, torque up bolts, job done?

[Bruce.m]

Yes to the seal question (fits without machining the case) although you might need type4 shims (not sure).

I'd guess the type4 bearing will have a big OD so will require case machining.

[Mertman]

Well if that's the case (pun not intended), then I'll only need to open up the #1 main bearing journal. From what I read the WBX seal is a 3 piece bearing which requires extra machining, the more work to open up the flywheel to take the seal. Doing it this way the type 4 bearing should be the same design as a type 1 bearing, except larger. No doubt it'll need bigger shims, but they won't break the bank.

Thanks for your help!