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Hello everybody,

Some years ago I ran my 1600 type 1 engine with MS2 (ignition sequental, injector alternating). When I decided to restoration of the 69 bug, I also decided to build a 2 liter type 4 engine. Last two years I ran this engine with carbs, but last winter it was time to build the MS2 to this engine. The hardware part is finished: (GSX tb's, VW COPS, 36-1 timing wheel and a modified distributer with hall sensor as trigger.

The engine:


And at the testing I ran into a problem. I build a PCB with leds which gives me the opportunity to check the output signals. Below first the settings.


I corrected the timing later to 52,5 degree BTDC cyl 1, and the trigger wheel is at approx 120 degree BTDC cyl 1.

Because of the coil on plug settings, I expected to see that every cylinder would be fired separately, but the output which shown is a wasted spark
Cylinder 1&3:


Cylinder 4&2:


When I check the composite logger, I see the following: (the first red lines are out of synch due to the first rpms at cranking)


Timing log:


Trigger log:


Because all the log's look OK to me, I decided to continue with wasted cop settings (same output at the leds as the coil on plug setting), and continue the testing of the injector outputs. Settings:


So now I expected to have the same output as the leds above, but the injectors all fire simultaniously.


Anybody a clue of what is going wrong?

Thank you very much in advance for your help!

Best regards Mark.

Small update, some things I forgot:
The spark outputs A, B, C and D are done by a JBperf output board. When the outputs are tested with tunerstudio, they all work fine separately.

The fuel outputs are done by the original bank 1 and 2 on the MS v3.0 board. I will check if they also work separately.

Best regards Mark

Is the dist a single window or a four window trigger wheel?

Thanks for your reply. It is a single window trigger wheel. (I cut off the other 3. )

The engines not seeing the cam sensor so not phased. see if it has its trigger ok. it should switch on and off via the window and vane, turning the dizzy by hand should see it switching on your volt meter, i found some early vw hall sensors just wont work, i used a later hall from a 2.1 wasser dizzy, they have a plastic sensor housing where the early 'no go' type are all metal..get the cam trace fixed and go from there.

Thank you very much! Sometimes good to get a little push in the right direction. For some reason the connector of the hall sensor did not make a connection, but when I pulled it of and put it back on the system worked like it should be, and the coils are all fired separately.

Now it only takes some checks on the fuel system and its time to start the engine.

Thank you very much again for your reply!

Best regards Mark

great news, but please verify the ignition timing before loading the motor if not done already.

Thanks for the advise. I allready (double) checked the timing with a timing light. And now its exactly set at the cranking advance. I also checked at the dizzy if the timing is on the 1st cylinder and not the 3rd

Mark

After some issues with the injectors, (they were stuck, because they were on the shelf too long) I finally got the engine running yesterday. Ran pretty good from the start.