microsquirt not switching hall signal to ground.

[buildabiggerboxer]

gentlemen, just one last ignition hurdle to clear before starting on the injection system, but an event is fast approaching, i have the motor running just great on its 48 dells in waste spark and may do the event as is but fear of running out of spark at race revs is why i want sequencial spark enabled, it has a poor cam sync trace in sequential COP but the motor still fires right up and runs great in waste COP mode despite ignition settings burnt for dual wheel COP in poll level, its as if its defaulting to waste spark, id rather she would not start lol....
what ive found on the hall dizzy, moded vanagon to single vane, is a solid 12v supply, and a 12v signal, it has 1k resistor across these two, but no change when the hall sensor is covered or uncovered by the vane, the dizzy was working well before conversion and i tried a spare hall sensor already to no effect, the ground cable goes to micro ground on the engine case, but for some reason shes not switching the stock vw hall sensor. sorry its a long one,
and thanks in advance for any input.

[ps2375]

Never dealt with Microsquirt. Have you tried bridge on bottom of board, I assume you are looking at solder bridges

[buildabiggerboxer]

Think ive cracked it, i found another hall assembly in the junk and pluged it in to my micro loom to test and, guess what? powers up 12v on feed and signal and its pulling down correctly switching to ground, so early doors tommorow before customer labours AM to finalize and mega log it, fingers crossed but no logic as to why no cam signal with the hall sensor in it, unless ive killed it somehow, anyway road tested the car today and it revved round to 6000 cleanly in waste spark before i ran out out of road, i need the full 7200 for the track, big difference aye but shes brutal..

[ps2375]

I would think it should handle 7200 in wasted spark mode. Should have plenty of time to charge between sparks.

[buildabiggerboxer]

Thxs for your input ps2375, ill post up my findings on the cam sync tomorrow, i took a quick DB reading earlyer today, it may be related to waste spark but at the static test rpm she barks from the exhaust a lot, it goes clean on more throttle but they want it held steady at test rpm, hope it wont bark so bad in sequenced ignition, we'll see soon, i hope....

[ps2375]

I'm not really sure what you are describing...unless there are unburnt gasses getting ignited on the wasted spark cylinder.

[buildabiggerboxer]

well in the time honoured statement of two steps forward, one step back, i took a step forward, yes, it was the hall sensor, it fired right up first time in sequencial spark and with spot on cam, toothwheel and ignition traces with full sync,then after a celebratory brew, i stupidly had a play and changed some settings, upon which she would not start and backfired a few times, now it wont sync despite reverting back to settings its used before without issues, even the vr toothwheel has lost sync and that has been so solid from day one, ho hum, tomorrow we try again .

[andy198712]

can you re flash the firmware?

[buildabiggerboxer]

Hi Andy, yes thats an option ill look at, distracted by work this am but i had a quick look and a fiddle but still see shite sync wave forms, know what? it may be noise, i noticed the starter kicks a lot on cranking, its had such a pounding lately, think im gonna change it quickly for my test rig one to verify the theory.
just another snippet of dizzy Hall sensor info is
microsquirt dont like hall dizzys as cam sync from carb versions of T25, thats were mine came from and they give intermittent switching, these also have a magnet 180 degs opposite the hall, the latest replacement im using now came from a DJ injected bus, this is the one to use and it has a noticably stronger magnetic 'tug' on the vane as it passes by the sensor, it switches to ground just by turning by hand every time. more on my instant non starting as i find it, lets see what a starter change brings.

[andy198712]

I had a good running engine, plugged it in, updated settings and it died... ran like a bag! Tried swapping injectors, plugs, leads, whole new tune, nothing. In the end it was surguested to re flash the firmware and it was fine! It is an old MS1 2.2 though. It just something to keep in your back pocket before you set fire to it lol

[Piledriver]

Might want to pick up one of Marios little sync units... Works great with a modern Hall sensor...
Spare sensors are ~$3-4 and easy to change if ever needed.
(I have yet to hear of one failing)

[Piledriver]

Were you the fellow looking at using the BMW stand-alone ABS setup?

[buildabiggerboxer]

Pile, Marios nice mini sync will get the nod im sure once all the bugs are ironed out of this first phase ignition set up, but not me on the BMW ABS post, tho no doubt ill be back on here again, lots do do still including the current no start situation as soon as i can get back to it, this evening i hope.

[Piledriver]

Sorted yet?

[buildabiggerboxer]

Thxs Pile, you knew lol, kind of sorted, but i changed 3 items, rule of racing, as you know, change only one item at a time, so not sure what the cure was, i changed the starter,long job, i have it all panelled in for aero undersides and for db test reasons in the wheel arches, also has a front facing exhaust exiting by my door to get the sound mans db meter away from engine clatter and carb roar,,freaakin 90 db for track days, 100db for races so i cut a hatch on the parcel shelf floor and went in that way,i also made a EMI screen over it as the uS is right there in the engine bay, then in settings i changed cam edge, oddly, my vr connections seem reversed from the ford bumf with the sensor, but it fired up after a huge backfire, so, yes, its back and the cam trace is solid with all sync boxes green, she runs in either waste cop or sequenced order, i checked with the timing light for the differing pulses to make sure she was sound on either setting..
now some more oddness has happened while setting up my knock tech that im stuck with, its on dells with tps, and i found the blue dot slowly waltzing
up the kpa column to the 100 bin, disconnect the module to uS connection and it waltzes back down again, so someone noted i should change from kpa in the spark table to tps, but ive not found a way to do that, even if its possible, playing i tried itb mode and maf, but now the blue tps dot goes along the horizontal with throttle action...i re set it back to map kpa but still the same, needed some lunch and a beer, but thats it at the moment.
just having a look in settings at home, but all seems as it should be, but hey,, im a novice still learning....all insults most welcome, its getting there
slooooowly lol.