MS2 Idles Funny?

[nogoodwithusernames]

What's happening is when idling especially after startup a relay switches rapidly (relay under dash not with MS2 setup) and causes sync losses until it finally smooths out. What I think is happening is the stock fuel pump relay is inline on fuel pump circuit for the MS2, and I will need to just bypass it. My bentley diagrams don't show the FI wiring so I'm not sure which wires I need to hook to which other wires? Any of the type 3 guys running MS have any dealings with this?
Thanks for the help!

[trbugman]

Typically the relay clicking is a result of the sync loss, not the other way around. The fuel pump is turned off because the ECU loses sync and thinks the engine has stopped, but when it re-syncs it turns it back on. A tooth log of when it happens could help trouble shoot the issue.

[Piledriver]

IIRC there is a wire accessible under the back seat that is the original FP relay control wire, the original relay may have been under the back seat, can't remember. I think I fished the FP line from the original ECU out of the harness, which is accessible there.

I use that wire (or another for the rear window defrost relay) and use that to run the FP relay under the dash, where it gets power from the fuse box ~directly. (I have slept since then)

...and as trbugman mentioned, you are losing sync, the relay cycling is an effect, not the cause.
Need to work out what the real issue is.

It could be anything from wheel to sensor gap, amp presets, to alternator/generator noise, low voltage at idle (likely if you have a generator), or bad grounds, or even your choice of ECU power feed...

If you have a mechanical old school regulator for your generator, you can tweak up the voltage a little, may help.

Power feed to the ECU is best right off the battery via a relay, and have the coil power and/or injector power fed through a second relay with its own feed/fuses. (my ECU etc is all under the drivers side of the back seat)

I use a large ferrite with about 10 turns of the 12ga feed wire on the coil/injector power feed to reduce noise kickback.
I still (very occasionally) get a sync loss from turning my wipers off or the AC condenser fan kicking off.
I need to get a few MOVs in the circuit and perhaps a small radio noise filter like they used to sell at radio shack, essentially just a small 1:1 transformer and a couple caps wired simply as a LC filter.
Use that on the MS 12v feed.

MOVs and ferrites would ideally go very near the noise sources.
22v MOVs would be ideal.

[raul arrese]

That same problem drove me nuts for a few days after i put in another motor , well like a dummy i overlooked that it had non resistor plugs in it , sync loss big time , changed plugs and it ran like a completely diffrent engine and no more relay click ..

[nogoodwithusernames]

Hey guys, thanks for the replies! Looks like I must have forgotten to hit "notify of replies" when I posted up.
Anyways I think you're pretty much on track as I've also been talking with Mario about this.
I'm going to try and get a toothlog tonight before heading out from work when I start up. I have to do it at startup because the problem goes away once the motor is warmed up from a few minutes of driving. It also runs fine once I feather the throttle a bit and it gets running a bit higher than idle.

Low voltage is doubtful as it's up near 16. Probably need to open up the VR and adjust that.

Power feed is right off the battery up to the relays for the board, coils and injectors.

Resistor plugs... Yes I certainly needed those, I couldn't even start the motor without them but I've had them in for a few weeks now.