OK I think the 800 ohm resistor was for the tach signal and the MS3 is controlling the MSD as if it were a coil. So if I am understanding things right I should be able to remove the MSD and wire the coil in its place.vwi_dduvall wrote:I purchased the pre built unit.Piledriver wrote:Depends on your mainboard and how you built it.
Typically a V3 board had an ignition driver IIRC output on pin 37.
What i find so far is saying pin 36 number 5 on the relay board which is what the msd runs on I am just not sure about the resistors and don't want to burn up the ECU.
Still digging through my notes on my setup I might be able to just remove the MSD 6 and connect to the coil but not totally sure.
Boggled
- vwi_dduvall
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Re: Boggled
Daniel Du Vall
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
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"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
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- Piledriver
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Re: Boggled
Which inputs are you using, the opto or the adjustable ones?vwi_dduvall wrote:I purchased the pre built unit.Piledriver wrote:Depends on your mainboard and how you built it.
Typically a V3 board had an ignition driver IIRC output on pin 37.
What i find so far is saying pin 36 number 5 on the relay board which is what the msd runs on I am just not sure about the resistors and don't want to burn up the ECU.
Still digging through my notes on my setup I might be able to just remove the MSD 6 and connect to the coil but not totally sure.
Contact the vendor if in doubt.
I have always made a little set of documentation as to wiring, jumpers and settings for each install, I email it to myself so I always can find it. (gmail)
After awhile its easy to forget little essential details...
It is probably wired as you think, but it would be a good idea to make sure.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- vwi_dduvall
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:39 am
Re: Boggled
I purchased the unit directly from Megasquirt and added the MS3X expansion board shortly after receiving it (Wanted to add an external Baro) and starting the install. I believe I am using the adjustable ones. The signal from the distributor goes directly to the ms3 pin 24 and I am using the tacho out pin 26 from the MS3X to trigger the MSD 6A box.Piledriver wrote:Which inputs are you using, the opto or the adjustable ones?vwi_dduvall wrote:I purchased the pre built unit.Piledriver wrote:Depends on your mainboard and how you built it.
Typically a V3 board had an ignition driver IIRC output on pin 37.
What i find so far is saying pin 36 number 5 on the relay board which is what the msd runs on I am just not sure about the resistors and don't want to burn up the ECU.
Still digging through my notes on my setup I might be able to just remove the MSD 6 and connect to the coil but not totally sure.
Contact the vendor if in doubt.
I have always made a little set of documentation as to wiring, jumpers and settings for each install, I email it to myself so I always can find it. (gmail)
After awhile its easy to forget little essential details...
I did some work today to try and remove the MSD 6A but am not getting any results now. Have no fuel pump now and no signal out of pin 36 that is wired to the S5 on the relay board. I know I must be missing something in this process.
Daniel Du Vall
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
- Piledriver
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Re: Boggled
Did you perhaps buy it from DIYAutotune?
AFAIK Bowling and Grippo haven't sold directly in ages, and nothing but in kit form, since maybe the first group buys with the v1.01 MS1 boards in 2001-2002. They let their distributors deal with all that.
(I have rum MS3+MS3x on one of those original boards, works fine, probably the best use for them as all the heavy lifting is done on the MS3 and MS3x)
I wish I could be of more help on the MSD, with MS I have only ever run toothed wheels/sequential fuel and spark, which is extremely easy to troubleshoot using the test modes.
AFAIK Bowling and Grippo haven't sold directly in ages, and nothing but in kit form, since maybe the first group buys with the v1.01 MS1 boards in 2001-2002. They let their distributors deal with all that.
(I have rum MS3+MS3x on one of those original boards, works fine, probably the best use for them as all the heavy lifting is done on the MS3 and MS3x)
I wish I could be of more help on the MSD, with MS I have only ever run toothed wheels/sequential fuel and spark, which is extremely easy to troubleshoot using the test modes.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- vwi_dduvall
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- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:39 am
Re: Boggled
Sorry my mistake it was DIYAutoTune I was under the impression they were the main distributer. I purchased these two items but the non anodised case version.Piledriver wrote:Did you perhaps buy it from DIYAutotune?
AFAIK Bowling and Grippo haven't sold directly in ages, and nothing but in kit form, since maybe the first group buys with the v1.01 MS1 boards in 2001-2002. They let their distributors deal with all that.
(I have rum MS3+MS3x on one of those original boards, works fine, probably the best use for them as all the heavy lifting is done on the MS3 and MS3x)
I wish I could be of more help on the MSD, with MS I have only ever run toothed wheels/sequential fuel and spark, which is extremely easy to troubleshoot using the test modes.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/mega ... p-420.html
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/mega ... p-434.html
Daniel Du Vall
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
- vwi_dduvall
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- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:39 am
Re: Boggled
OK going to throw this out. From what I read and understand I should be getting a some sort of reaction on pin 36 of the MS3 I assume this is a closed (Grounding) signal to the coil to act as a set of points would for lack of a better way to explain it. IF this is correct is there a setting I might have missed in the tunerstudio to make this happen or does this option go away wen you add the MS3X expansion?
When I was using the MSD I was using pin 26 tacho of the MS3X expansion to trigger the MSD 6A and I don't believe I can just connect that directly to the coil.
My understanding is the MS3 can handle a coil on pin 36 with out any mods, please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks for all y'alls help it is greatly appreciated.
When I was using the MSD I was using pin 26 tacho of the MS3X expansion to trigger the MSD 6A and I don't believe I can just connect that directly to the coil.
My understanding is the MS3 can handle a coil on pin 36 with out any mods, please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks for all y'alls help it is greatly appreciated.
Daniel Du Vall
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
- Piledriver
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Re: Boggled
OK, looking at the v3 mainboard schematics:
36 (and usually a second pin, refer to system install schematics) on the mainboard is IGN output, but it just goes to a jumper pad.
24 is tach in,
It will be jumpered to either the opto circuit or the adjustable inputs.
to have a goesoutta on pin 36, you must be properly triggering the goesinta on pin 24.
No goesinta? no goesoutta or fuel pump etc.
For a true coil input, you probably want the opto (and has to be set up for HV input)---
Seems to me that would be for fuel only.
Most likely you would want the adjustable inputs connected as you are using your points or whatever to simply switch 12v with a pullup, as you want to control timing.
On the mainboard tachin goes to pad tachselect, which can be jumpered to "optoin" or "vrin". (jump tachsel to vrin most likely)
You will need a 1k-5k pullup to 5v or 12v on that line so you have a signal for the points to switch.
The mainboard vr amps can deal with a vr, hall, or pulled up set of points (not coil connected) just fine.
On the output side, you would probably run a 330 ohm resistor from "spkA" pad to "igbtin", which goes to a bip373 igbt transistor to drive the coil on pin 36 and another pin (use both output pins, check the schematics, will be jumpered to "igbtout")
A missing tooth wheel in the distributor with a hall or vr sensor will provide a much more accurate timing signal, supports full sequential operation, and you can still fire through the distributor if that's what you really want.
COPs or CNP coils are much easier to diagnose.
If you had a wheel setup and 4 LS2 coils you would have been done long ago, as you already have the ms3x.
Controlling timing and firing through the distributor is an enormous PITA by comparison.
Its far too easy to ask for timing the distributor can physically cannot deliver, as the rotor must be lined up with the cap electrode you want. (google rotor indexing)
36 (and usually a second pin, refer to system install schematics) on the mainboard is IGN output, but it just goes to a jumper pad.
24 is tach in,
It will be jumpered to either the opto circuit or the adjustable inputs.
to have a goesoutta on pin 36, you must be properly triggering the goesinta on pin 24.
No goesinta? no goesoutta or fuel pump etc.
For a true coil input, you probably want the opto (and has to be set up for HV input)---
Seems to me that would be for fuel only.
Most likely you would want the adjustable inputs connected as you are using your points or whatever to simply switch 12v with a pullup, as you want to control timing.
On the mainboard tachin goes to pad tachselect, which can be jumpered to "optoin" or "vrin". (jump tachsel to vrin most likely)
You will need a 1k-5k pullup to 5v or 12v on that line so you have a signal for the points to switch.
The mainboard vr amps can deal with a vr, hall, or pulled up set of points (not coil connected) just fine.
On the output side, you would probably run a 330 ohm resistor from "spkA" pad to "igbtin", which goes to a bip373 igbt transistor to drive the coil on pin 36 and another pin (use both output pins, check the schematics, will be jumpered to "igbtout")
A missing tooth wheel in the distributor with a hall or vr sensor will provide a much more accurate timing signal, supports full sequential operation, and you can still fire through the distributor if that's what you really want.
COPs or CNP coils are much easier to diagnose.
If you had a wheel setup and 4 LS2 coils you would have been done long ago, as you already have the ms3x.
Controlling timing and firing through the distributor is an enormous PITA by comparison.
Its far too easy to ask for timing the distributor can physically cannot deliver, as the rotor must be lined up with the cap electrode you want. (google rotor indexing)
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- vwi_dduvall
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:39 am
Re: Boggled
Well I am defiantly heading that way. I wish that Mario would have his toothed wheel at least in beta testing. I really would rather buy his than that other one that is out there.
Daniel Du Vall
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
- vwi_dduvall
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- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:39 am
Re: Boggled
Well I finally pulled out the MS3 box form my car and now see why i cant get it to drive the coil I am missing the:vwi_dduvall wrote:Well I am defiantly heading that way. I wish that Mario would have his toothed wheel at least in beta testing. I really would rather buy his than that other one that is out there.
Internally, the follow is required:
- BIP373 (marked as 30115) needs to be installed in Q16 with a mica insulator.
- Connect a 330R 1/4W resistor between IGBTin and CPU pin 7 (or the top of R26)
SO I am no in the spot of deciding to get the parts and doing the mod or just going with the toothed wheel:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... id=1735698
Bummer, but I am tired of fighting with this and I see how I am pushing the limits of the 009.
If anyone has any other ideas for getting setup to do sequential spark I am all ears at this point.
Thanks,
Daniel Du Vall
Daniel Du Vall
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
- Piledriver
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Re: Boggled
I'd be inclined to make one if you have any fabrication skills, but if he has any in stock, it and a set of LS2 coils would get you going in a hurry. Its a decent solution that will drop in your existing locked 009.
Run the LS2 logic grounds back to the MS, and the coil power grounds to the engine tin or case.
To be fair, Redline Weber has sold a custom 24-1 VR sensor/wheel in a modded 009 for ages, but its about 2-3x the price.
(not exactly sure on his price since you have to ask, and I refuse to play his games)
You have the MS3x harness? You're all set.
Make sure he makes you the 12-1 wheel version, his std version is 12-2 with opposing missing teeth, for ms1, it "looks" like a 6-1 crank wheel to the MS, and MS1 can deal with that for waste spark.
(You could also use that on ms2E/3 too, but why?)
The 12-1 @cam speed allows full sequential on a 4 or 6 cylinder, an 8 would require 16 teeth IIRC.
///rant: 3 way connector "T" (no suffix) on a 1973 Squareback (and possibly others) is NOT in the engine compartment nor under the back seat, the schematics actually don't say, only Ta and Tb are called out in the description.
Both connectors "T" live to the left of the fusebox... this is where the front/rear turn signal wire splits, runs between the cable that runs to the back that comes up the side of the drivers footwell under the carpet and the big one that goes forwards in front of the fuse box.
Not much slack in the wires front/rear, easy to pull the TS wires out of the plug in T connectors when messing with the fusebox, and hard to see in the ratsnest.
Run the LS2 logic grounds back to the MS, and the coil power grounds to the engine tin or case.
To be fair, Redline Weber has sold a custom 24-1 VR sensor/wheel in a modded 009 for ages, but its about 2-3x the price.
(not exactly sure on his price since you have to ask, and I refuse to play his games)
You have the MS3x harness? You're all set.
Make sure he makes you the 12-1 wheel version, his std version is 12-2 with opposing missing teeth, for ms1, it "looks" like a 6-1 crank wheel to the MS, and MS1 can deal with that for waste spark.
(You could also use that on ms2E/3 too, but why?)
The 12-1 @cam speed allows full sequential on a 4 or 6 cylinder, an 8 would require 16 teeth IIRC.
///rant: 3 way connector "T" (no suffix) on a 1973 Squareback (and possibly others) is NOT in the engine compartment nor under the back seat, the schematics actually don't say, only Ta and Tb are called out in the description.
Both connectors "T" live to the left of the fusebox... this is where the front/rear turn signal wire splits, runs between the cable that runs to the back that comes up the side of the drivers footwell under the carpet and the big one that goes forwards in front of the fuse box.
Not much slack in the wires front/rear, easy to pull the TS wires out of the plug in T connectors when messing with the fusebox, and hard to see in the ratsnest.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- vwi_dduvall
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:39 am
Re: Boggled
Thanks for the info.Piledriver wrote:I'd be inclined to make one if you have any fabrication skills, but if he has any in stock, it and a set of LS2 coils would get you going in a hurry. Its a decent solution that will drop in your existing locked 009.
Run the LS2 logic grounds back to the MS, and the coil power grounds to the engine tin or case.
To be fair, Redline Weber has sold a custom 24-1 VR sensor/wheel in a modded 009 for ages, but its about 2-3x the price.
(not exactly sure on his price since you have to ask, and I refuse to play his games)
You have the MS3x harness? You're all set.
Make sure he makes you the 12-1 wheel version, his std version is 12-2 with opposing missing teeth, for ms1, it "looks" like a 6-1 crank wheel to the MS, and MS1 can deal with that for waste spark.
(You could also use that on ms2E/3 too, but why?)
The 12-1 @cam speed allows full sequential on a 4 or 6 cylinder, an 8 would require 16 teeth IIRC.
///rant: 3 way connector "T" (no suffix) on a 1973 Squareback (and possibly others) is NOT in the engine compartment nor under the back seat, the schematics actually don't say, only Ta and Tb are called out in the description.
Both connectors "T" live to the left of the fusebox... this is where the front/rear turn signal wire splits, runs between the cable that runs to the back that comes up the side of the drivers footwell under the carpet and the big one that goes forwards in front of the fuse box.
Not much slack in the wires front/rear, easy to pull the TS wires out of the plug in T connectors when messing with the fusebox, and hard to see in the ratsnest.
I dont have the facilities to fabricate right now but it would be a good project.
Didn't CB Performance make one or was that a totally different setup??
When you mentioned the LS2 would get me going in a hurry are you saying there is a better way?
I like Mario's LS2 brackets I am thinking of just getting the 4 pack unit as I can see fitting it in the engine compartment nicely.
What was the "///rant:" all about? Totally lost me there
Daniel Du Vall
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
- vwi_dduvall
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:39 am
Re: Boggled
vwi_dduvall wrote:Thanks for the info.Piledriver wrote:I'd be inclined to make one if you have any fabrication skills, but if he has any in stock, it and a set of LS2 coils would get you going in a hurry. Its a decent solution that will drop in your existing locked 009.
Run the LS2 logic grounds back to the MS, and the coil power grounds to the engine tin or case.
To be fair, Redline Weber has sold a custom 24-1 VR sensor/wheel in a modded 009 for ages, but its about 2-3x the price.
(not exactly sure on his price since you have to ask, and I refuse to play his games)
You have the MS3x harness? You're all set.
Make sure he makes you the 12-1 wheel version, his std version is 12-2 with opposing missing teeth, for ms1, it "looks" like a 6-1 crank wheel to the MS, and MS1 can deal with that for waste spark.
(You could also use that on ms2E/3 too, but why?)
The 12-1 @cam speed allows full sequential on a 4 or 6 cylinder, an 8 would require 16 teeth IIRC.
///rant: 3 way connector "T" (no suffix) on a 1973 Squareback (and possibly others) is NOT in the engine compartment nor under the back seat, the schematics actually don't say, only Ta and Tb are called out in the description.
Both connectors "T" live to the left of the fusebox... this is where the front/rear turn signal wire splits, runs between the cable that runs to the back that comes up the side of the drivers footwell under the carpet and the big one that goes forwards in front of the fuse box.
Not much slack in the wires front/rear, easy to pull the TS wires out of the plug in T connectors when messing with the fusebox, and hard to see in the ratsnest.
I dont have the facilities to fabricate right now but it would be a good project.
Didn't CB Performance make one or was that a totally different setup??
When you mentioned the LS2 would get me going in a hurry are you saying there is a better way?
I like Mario's LS2 brackets I am thinking of just getting the 4 pack unit as I can see fitting it in the engine compartment nicely.
What was the "///rant:" all about? Totally lost me there
Here is the Cb one I was thinking of:
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDet ... tCode=7074
Daniel Du Vall
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
- vwi_dduvall
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:39 am
Re: Boggled
Never mind found the answer to my question:vwi_dduvall wrote:vwi_dduvall wrote:Thanks for the info.Piledriver wrote:I'd be inclined to make one if you have any fabrication skills, but if he has any in stock, it and a set of LS2 coils would get you going in a hurry. Its a decent solution that will drop in your existing locked 009.
Run the LS2 logic grounds back to the MS, and the coil power grounds to the engine tin or case.
To be fair, Redline Weber has sold a custom 24-1 VR sensor/wheel in a modded 009 for ages, but its about 2-3x the price.
(not exactly sure on his price since you have to ask, and I refuse to play his games)
You have the MS3x harness? You're all set.
Make sure he makes you the 12-1 wheel version, his std version is 12-2 with opposing missing teeth, for ms1, it "looks" like a 6-1 crank wheel to the MS, and MS1 can deal with that for waste spark.
(You could also use that on ms2E/3 too, but why?)
The 12-1 @cam speed allows full sequential on a 4 or 6 cylinder, an 8 would require 16 teeth IIRC.
///rant: 3 way connector "T" (no suffix) on a 1973 Squareback (and possibly others) is NOT in the engine compartment nor under the back seat, the schematics actually don't say, only Ta and Tb are called out in the description.
Both connectors "T" live to the left of the fusebox... this is where the front/rear turn signal wire splits, runs between the cable that runs to the back that comes up the side of the drivers footwell under the carpet and the big one that goes forwards in front of the fuse box.
Not much slack in the wires front/rear, easy to pull the TS wires out of the plug in T connectors when messing with the fusebox, and hard to see in the ratsnest.
I dont have the facilities to fabricate right now but it would be a good project.
Didn't CB Performance make one or was that a totally different setup??
When you mentioned the LS2 would get me going in a hurry are you saying there is a better way?
I like Mario's LS2 brackets I am thinking of just getting the 4 pack unit as I can see fitting it in the engine compartment nicely.
What was the "///rant:" all about? Totally lost me there
Here is the Cb one I was thinking of:
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDet ... tCode=7074
http://www.cbperformance.com/Articles.asp?ID=252
Daniel Du Vall
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
- Piledriver
- Moderator
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Re: Boggled
The //rant was just something that killed an hour of otherwise potentially productive time at 1 AM due to the official VW schematics being incomplete. (The description is missing for those two connectors marked "T" for the turn signal lines)
If you ever lose a turn signal and the other one on that side works and you are tracing wires, they split F/R right by the fusebox.
I may be able to get the square inspected and legal again tomorrow. I miss driving it.
It has nice cold A/C now as well as rocking heat from the BN4, so its the perfect car.
The LS2 coils are an excellent choice for CNP but not in waste spark mode.
The MS3x was specifically designed with those in mind.
I'm not going to dis that CB system but you are 4 coils and connecting some wires short of a truly excellent ignition system, with per cylinder trim tables and per cylinder knock retard and many other features that may be useful.
AFAIK the only commonly available hotter "smart" coils vs. the D585 truck coils (LS2 variant) are the IGN1a coils.
Originally for Mercury GDI outboards, there are dumb and logic controlled versions, the IGN1a is the logic version.
I used to have the Mercury Marine part#...
For folks running carbs that need plug-n-pray the CB setup almost makes sense.
For someone with an already installed MS3+MS3X? Not so much, would be a huge downgrade.
The std LS2 coils are easy to mount/space with hardware store standoffs, the bangin truck versions I haven't figured out a decent and simple mount setup for yet. I guess I should dig them out to play with... Maybe can clamp them to the intake...
If you ever lose a turn signal and the other one on that side works and you are tracing wires, they split F/R right by the fusebox.
I may be able to get the square inspected and legal again tomorrow. I miss driving it.
It has nice cold A/C now as well as rocking heat from the BN4, so its the perfect car.
The LS2 coils are an excellent choice for CNP but not in waste spark mode.
The MS3x was specifically designed with those in mind.
I'm not going to dis that CB system but you are 4 coils and connecting some wires short of a truly excellent ignition system, with per cylinder trim tables and per cylinder knock retard and many other features that may be useful.
AFAIK the only commonly available hotter "smart" coils vs. the D585 truck coils (LS2 variant) are the IGN1a coils.
Originally for Mercury GDI outboards, there are dumb and logic controlled versions, the IGN1a is the logic version.
I used to have the Mercury Marine part#...
For folks running carbs that need plug-n-pray the CB setup almost makes sense.
For someone with an already installed MS3+MS3X? Not so much, would be a huge downgrade.
The std LS2 coils are easy to mount/space with hardware store standoffs, the bangin truck versions I haven't figured out a decent and simple mount setup for yet. I guess I should dig them out to play with... Maybe can clamp them to the intake...
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- vwi_dduvall
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:39 am
Re: Boggled
If I do this setup what else is needed to do sequential injection?
Or do I need to go the crank trigger and mini cam sync route?
Or do I need to go the crank trigger and mini cam sync route?
Daniel Du Vall
http://volkswageninsanity.us
"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension
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"Cause, remember: no matter where you go... there you are"
Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension