Some doubts to go MS in WBX

[Piledriver]

The LS2 std and LS2 truck coils use the same connector/pinout and are electrically swappable parts.
They mount differently though.

LS1 coils have same pinout, different connectors, but are worthless and weak compared to LS2 coils, even of the std flavor. Don't bother unless they are free including pigtails.

[edit--This is wrong, see below] 4.3ms dwell/.7ms spark time on Ms2/3 is what I have been running w/no issues, I'm trying to find where I saw that info, as the # in the manual seem too high

http://www.megasquirt.325ix.com/MS_to_M ... ivers.html

proper settings for LS2 coils on MS (determined by a quick test that I just ran, long story)

4.3ms max dwell
2ms max spark duration

The default MS battery/dwell table is "generic"
The proper one for the LS2 coils should be:
(Data dumped from GM Silverado ECU, LS2 coil equipped, info found on msextra forums)
LS2 coil Battery dwell correction:
volts-----%
6.0-----400
8.2-----250
10.0----138
12.0----100
14.0----78
16.0----66

Overwell protection: OFF (LS2 coils do it by themselves in hardware at [email protected] AFAICT)

[profe]

Thanks for your responses.

Forum comunity make great this forum.

[subwoofer]

I got my MS3 up and running in a few hours once I committed to doing it, I had an extra wiring loom and a trigger wheel equipped pulley prepared beforehand. Looking very good so far, and that engine has a lot of miles on it.

Are you running fully sequential (both igniton and fuel delivery)?. Still with OEM injectors?.

I would apreciate any kind of feed back info from MS.

Thanks in advance

Semisequential at the moment, haven't fitted the locked and modified distributor yet. And running stock injectors, never removed them from the engine. I guess the injector constants could be more exact, but for now it works fine. The only trouble I have is getting good idle when cold, but I have only been running it for two weeks and am still learning.

[profe]

Just a little advance in data loggings.

Today I could connect an AEM X wi-fi sensor to the laptop and I took my first AFR`s values. Just idle and accelerating in neutral (with the van in a parking).

I could see that idle shows around 15 AFR and if I accelerate to 4000 rpm, it reached 16 aprox. That means the engine is working lean mixture, right?. It is normal?

[volksbugly]

Revving in the driveway is different than driving. Your manifold pressure will be different when driving
so it might possibly be ok

[profe]

Revving in the driveway is different than driving. Your manifold pressure will be different when driving
so it might possibly be ok

Bingo!. Driving AFR's values changed.

I could spend half an hour "datalogging" the Digijet last weekend. Is not a lot of information, just some readings.

AEM performance electronics X-wifi

[profe]

Sorry, there are pics left

I fitted the cruise control at 3000 rpms and saw theese values_

3000_1.JPG

Increasing to 4000 rpm

4000_1.JPG

4000_2.JPG

4000_5.JPG

4000_3.JPG

And finally I set 3500 rpm

3500_2.JPG

3500_1.JPG

All measures where driving 5 gear, horizontal highway (less than 1% slope).
I could only see a bit rich mixture up to 4000 rpms. Below those rpms just a bit lean values.

I will try to get more info from the Digijet in real conditions but still don't know how to get ignition angles running the van as Piladriver comented. More help here will be apreciated.

[Steve Arndt]

John Connolly made a pile of measurements similar to what you are doing when he turboed his wasser. The stock setup attempts to run stoich at all times except warm up, and when the full throttle switch is in play.

Tencentlife of Vanistan fame came up with a neat idea. With a wideband that has programmable analog outputs you can trick the stock ECU into more or less fueling.

[Steve Arndt]

I believe John also ran a Hobbs pressure switch in parallel with the full throttle switch. When he hit the "boost" setting of the switch it would activate the full throttle circuit/switch, go open loop to 12.5:1, and handle the extra air from the turbo with a safe AFR.

[profe]

I believe John also ran a Hobbs pressure switch in parallel with the full throttle switch. When he hit the "boost" setting of the switch it would activate the full throttle circuit/switch, go open loop to 12.5:1, and handle the extra air from the turbo with a safe AFR.
John Connolly made a pile of measurements similar to what you are doing when he turboed his wasser. The stock setup attempts to run stoich at all times except warm up, and when the full throttle switch is in play.

Thanks Steve. But it is not in my mind turbo the wasser (neither in my pocket too )

Tencentlife of Vanistan fame came up with a neat idea. With a wideband that has programmable analog outputs you can trick the stock ECU into more or less fueling.

I fitted a Cheater cam in my engine because I followed Tencent at forums. I learned a lot from him -thanks for sharing your knowledge-. Even I bought him the oil radiator kit he sells. May be I was his first customer in Spain.

But now I want to uninstall the Digijet, fit a Megasquirt MS-II runing with CNP LS2 wasted spark, fit a 36-1 trigger wheel with a VR sensor, a wideband LC-1 O2 sensor, using stock injectors & stock sensors. I will show in this thread my progress as it occurs.

[Steve Arndt]

I look forward to seeing your pulley and trigger mods. I want to put programmable EFI on my 2.3 liter wasser in my van.

Steve

[subwoofer]

Here is one way to do it:

6.5" trigger ring from triggerwheels.com mounted on pulley:


Triggerwheel mounted on engine:


Honeywell 1GT101DC hall sensor on Bangla-style sensor bracket:


Trigger wheel to sensor distance is highly critical, I was surprised I had to increase it to get it to work. Rock solid now.

[profe]

Thanks for the pics Subwoofer

It is exactly my mind design. The only difference is the 36-1 trigger wheel, a friend of mine is going to build a couple of them in a laser cutted plate, it woh't be a purchased one.

I will take care with VR sensor to trigger distance. I knew from reading some forums this can be a criticall point. As soon as I have my own pieces I will show them in this thread.

[subwoofer]

Another tip in that respect: mount the bracket, trigger wheel and sensor on the engine before dismantling the Digijet/Digifant. That way, you can make sure you have clean trigger patterns over the entire RPM range before committing. That takes one of the large variables out of the equation, and makes the rest of the process smooth sailing.

[profe]

Another tip in that respect: mount the bracket, trigger wheel and sensor on the engine before dismantling the Digijet/Digifant. That way, you can make sure you have clean trigger patterns over the entire RPM range before committing. That takes one of the large variables out of the equation, and makes the rest of the process smooth sailing.

Of course.

I will fit the VR bracket still running the Digijet. My van has a.a. so in the main pulley are 2 belts running at the same time so close to the place VR sensor will be fitted. I know this is not the safest place for a sensor & wire. So I will spent some time checking "everyone is living in harmony there" before install the MS ECU.

Thanks for the advise anyway