miniman82 wrote:The accumulator averages the pulsating signal from the individual runners before sending it to the map sensor, making a smooth signal that doesn't jump around as much. Some people use a simple fuel filter and run all the lines from the runners into one side, other side goes to the sensor.
Thanks, makes sence.
So what other sensors would I need to run to the ECU?
miniman82 wrote:The accumulator averages the pulsating signal from the individual runners before sending it to the map sensor, making a smooth signal that doesn't jump around as much. Some people use a simple fuel filter and run all the lines from the runners into one side, other side goes to the sensor.
Thanks, makes sence.
So what other sensors would I need to run to the ECU?
Im slowly getting there with the understanding.
Thanks in advance
MAP
coolant temp
air temp
RPM (may include crank angle+phase if running ignition, highly recommended)
Throttle position
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
So, Can I use any sensors & mix n match so to speak. The ITB I think already have the TPS built into them, the MAP sensor I guess I can use any?
Should I use a Lambda sensor with this system?
Finally the trigger wheel does there need to be an specific size of teeth or number ot teeth (i know one has to be missing)
The map sensor is generally built into the MS. There are upgraded ones for more than one bar if the need ever should arise.
You should absolutely use a lambda of some sort. Gives the ECU (and you) something to tune off of. A narrow band will obviously do less good than a wide but they both will work fine.
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/wheel.htm
MS has a fair amount of play on the number of teeth on the wheel. The most popular is 36-1 (36 teeth, 1 missing) and you can find a 36-1 for just about any setup. General consensus seems to be MS likes the even 10 degrees per tooth.
Edit:
Mario (thedubshop.net) has a 36-1 T4 trigger wheel I believe. Don't ask me much more than that though because I haven't quite gotten the hang of T4 setups.
foreverska wrote:The map sensor is generally built into the MS. There are upgraded ones for more than one bar if the need ever should arise.
You should absolutely use a lambda of some sort. Gives the ECU (and you) something to tune off of. A narrow band will obviously do less good than a wide but they both will work fine.
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/wheel.htm
MS has a fair amount of play on the number of teeth on the wheel. The most popular is 36-1 (36 teeth, 1 missing) and you can find a 36-1 for just about any setup. General consensus seems to be MS likes the even 10 degrees per tooth.
Edit:
Mario (thedubshop.net) has a 36-1 T4 trigger wheel I believe. Don't ask me much more than that though because I haven't quite gotten the hang of T4 setups.
Thanks again for the info there,
So the Megasquirt comes with a MAP sensor then? thats good Saves me buying one.
I am unsure what the difference between wide and narrow band is but Ill take your word on wide being better, I guess I can just get any sensor, the only concern I have is that My exhaust wasn't a 4 to 1 so would I run a sensor for each side or can I just have a sensor on one side or is it a necessity that the tubes all come together for a reading?
Narrow band can only tell stoich ("correct fuel mixture") or not stoich. But we know that cars don't run stoich 24/7. You should be rich during accel and lean during decel etc etc and its important to control how rich or lean you go. Wideband can see every AF ratio (within reason) and allows you to tune everything in between not just idle. The spartan (http://14point7.com/) is the cheapest wideband around and the miata guys say wonderful things about it. It's cheap due to simplicity not quality.
MS2-Extra will allow two WB sensors. http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2 ... rdware.htm
Search for Second O2 Input for info. Putting the O2 sensor in a collector is just to get the health of all the cylinders. Doesn't matter how you do it just that the wideband gets a feel for all the cylinders.
14point7.com has a low cost all-in-one that works well from all accounts, the Spartan, and a sensor+ gauge combo for $175.
A NB sensor can be directly connected to the MS, the wideband needs a controller (which is integrated with the above combos)
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
Piledriver wrote:Does your exhaust have a stock style common can?
A singe sensor will be fine.
14point7.com has a low cost all-in-one that works well from all accounts, the Spartan, and a sensor+ gauge combo for $175.
A NB sensor can be directly connected to the MS, the wideband needs a controller (which is integrated with the above combos)
My plan was to use exsisting heat exchangers and I was going to butcher up my Monza 4tip to go onto the exhaust, I guess the Lambda could go into the back box section?
To keep costs down would it be worth me getting a Lambda sensor from a scrapyard car providing I can test it works?
Cragrobbo wrote:
To keep costs down would it be worth me getting a Lambda sensor from a scrapyard car providing I can test it works?
A WB at a junkyard would still need a controller. I guess you could try to find a used LC-1/LC-2 without the sensor or figure out 14point7's SLC OEM ($65/unit) and then a wideband off a junker would be cheaper as long as they let you walk out with it for less than $40. The Spartan sensor is just a one stop shop.
Cragrobbo wrote:
To keep costs down would it be worth me getting a Lambda sensor from a scrapyard car providing I can test it works?
A WB at a junkyard would still need a controller. I guess you could try to find a used LC-1/LC-2 without the sensor or figure out 14point7's SLC OEM ($65/unit) and then a wideband off a junker would be cheaper as long as they let you walk out with it for less than $40. The Spartan sensor is just a one stop shop.
Gotcha, I thought the sensor just hooked up directly to the ECU I didn't realize it needed its own controller. I think in that case Ill just get the all in one package.
