GSXR ITB's

[Dale M.]

i'm more and more drawn to these.... with a split cable jobbie, where are you putting the split?

IF you use GSXR ITB, you have to split unit between #2 and #3 throttle body..... And if you use end that has motorcycle throttle cable connector/linkage as #1 & #2 then you have NOTHING (on shaft) to attach linkage to for #3 & #4...

A lot goes back to this thread....

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 3&t=133723

And more here...

http://www.mydune-buggy.com/forum/viewt ... f=28&t=414

Dale

[Devastator]

I suspect Devastator may have something for you for a reasonable price if you like the wheels tho...
I would PM him, worth a shot. (I don't know what he charges, but he seems good people and he made Supas, at least one of them)

Thanks for the reference Pile.
I have made and shipped pulleys for the GSXR TB's, to Supa, Grelland, and Soul so far, and all have been very pleased with them.
I currently have 3 of them "on the shelf" and ready to go.
With a few measurements, I think that I could machine adapters to mount GSXR TB's to IDF manifolds.

[andy198712]

i think i like you

what do your pulleys run at cost wise?

i need to get my ITB's and play a little first really.....


is it such a bad idea to try and make glass fibre or carbon fibre manifolds? then just use a coupler to join the TBI's to that...?

[andy198712]

i'm more and more drawn to these.... with a split cable jobbie, where are you putting the split?

IF you use GSXR ITB, you have to split unit between #2 and #3 throttle body..... And if you use end that has motorcycle throttle cable connector/linkage as #1 & #2 then you have NOTHING (on shaft) to attach linkage to for #3 & #4...

A lot goes back to this thread....

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 3&t=133723

And more here...

http://www.mydune-buggy.com/forum/viewt ... f=28&t=414

Dale

hmmmmm

could you drill and tap the shaft? i need to look at some pics closely and work this one out... or get my hands on some TBI and have a play

[Devastator]

PM me and I'll send you pricing information.
I think that fiberglass manifolds would crack, and that carbon fiber would be expensive, but I really don't know.

[Piledriver]

n the 914, it was near the breather tower, but that's backwards from a Bug.

The best place to put a MC style cable splitter on a T1 would probably be next to the trans, or do similar to the synclink and "split" it at the drivers side lever.

[Dale M.]

If you go back to this thread....

//www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=133723

And look at page 4 or so this is what it SHOULD BE.... Adapter plate mounted to WEBER manifolds.... Best thing would be to use "O" rings in adapter plate for carb base instead of spigot boots ....



Here is rough drawing of adapter plate using "spigot boots" but bores could be enlarged a bit to take a 'O" ring at carb base and spigot boots eliminated (better idea)........



Still is connectivity of linkage issue though....

Dale

[Piledriver]

FWIW the `08 GSXR TBs are of the dual TB variety, and each hole has a bypass screw and IAC air port, and plenty of shaft sticking out for a pulley/lever.

Makes them a touch too narrow for ideal fit on Weber manifolds, but ~perfect for T4 ports.

I still think there's a market for lowbuck simple throttle plates on Weber spacing, bushed/sealed shafts, 1/2" plate would probably do.
Bolt to manifold, bolt on some 6" trumpets, fab up a stop for the throttle and stick a fork in it.

You could use Slowtwitches linkage on it most likely (might need a simple spacer or such, no hack) or roll your own.

Injectors could go in manifolds, in air cleaners shooting down or both.

[andy198712]

Thanks very much guys!

on the O ring vs Boot debate, can i ask why? if the O ring was easier then yeah, but the boots are what are used on bikes and also the TB's are designed to take a boot.... i guess its finding one that fits though.

i saw that thread and the mounting system looks great with a top and bottom plate.

with a TBI would it work better being closer to the head? sticking it ontop of a T1 mani, although using off the shelf parts (mani) surely is alot further from the valve then the TBI is designed to be? or does it not matter?
then again it wasnt designed to live on a ACVW but hey

[Dale M.]

Spigot boots allow TB to move around and "give" for vibration..... Don't think that is necessary.... And unless you have some sort of hold down, TB can actually rise up out of spigot boot if you can't get clamp at base to function properly... Also makes installation shorter (eliminates height of boot) and eliminates one possible sealing point at base of spigot boot to plate..... In the end its no longer a motorcycle TB its a "Weber form factor" TB... Also new boots run about $15 to $30 each (X4), vs "O" rings at maybe $1 each....

IT then becomes the equivalent to this....

http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=319

Dale

[andy198712]

Spigot boots allow TB to move around and "give" for vibration..... Don't think that is necessary.... And unless you have some sort of hold down, TB can actually rise up out of spigot boot if you can't get clamp at base to function properly... Also makes installation shorter (eliminates height of boot) and eliminates one possible sealing point at base of spigot boot to plate..... In the end its no longer a motorcycle TB its a "Weber form factor" TB... Also new boots run about $15 to $30 each (X4), vs "O" rings at maybe $1 each....

IT then becomes the equivalent to this....

http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=319

Dale

i see your point on the cost issue, also they can blow off on bikes sometimes if it backfires through the TB.

so why not have a base plate made up, bolted to the head, two short pipes added to this then your TBI's a few inches from the head? it would be no trouble for me to have the pipes welded to a base plate by a mate then use a coupler to join the TBI's in....

or is not good to have it so close to the head?

[Dale M.]

so why not have a base plate made up, bolted to the head, two short pipes added to this then your TBI's a few inches from the head? it would be no trouble for me to have the pipes welded to a base plate by a mate then use a coupler to join the TBI's in....

or is not good to have it so close to the head?

There is already two short pipes.... It's called WEBER IDF intake manifold.... The more custom parts one has to design and fabricate the more complex (expensive) the build ...

A single adapter plate fitting TB to off the shelf products is about the simplest way out there to create the induction part of EFI..... Go back an reread the original GTXR thread and look at all the hash ups of people trying to fit pipes and weld stuff together vs a simple adapter plate.... You are not really seeing big picture here.... Its all about mating it all together as simple as possible... The more bench time you dink around with loose collection of custom parts, that are not comparable parts (until they are massaged) is less time you have to play with complete system (testing & driving)...

Also I already have a set of IDF manifolds and the adapter plate can be hand fabricated out a piece of aluminum bar stock with simple hand and power tools (with some effort)....

In the end no matter how they are mounted, I still can not image a simple adaptation for throttle linkage connection....

Dale

[andy198712]

i think your right, i'm over complicating things maybe, i was just thinking making one plate for the head and fitting them to that.... squirting right down there.

i thin i'll got split cable for the linkage unless something pops up at me in mock up lol

[andy198712]

any length cable and outer and adjuster and splitters and nipples ect all there

[Piledriver]

The pulleys center area can be made pretty thin, it looks like no issue on the `08 GSXR units I have.
The flanged 42mm ITBs I have off a R1-motored Jetski each has its own stops and idle air screw.

Fabbing throttle stops should be the easier part of the project, they can go on the other end if required.
You shouldn't be hitting WOT stops in any case, great way to bend things.

I added a short spring inside my splitter as a soft stop, like an automatic might have..

OTOH i have the luxury of being able to weld on a tab if needed.
Welding aluminum is never quite as trivial as that sounds, but much like paint, it's 99% prep.